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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got to run my sled after putting on twin SLP pipes. and it is slower than stock. I did all of the proper clutching and carb tuning, but it only shifts out to 7400 RPM, and is supposed to be 8000-8200. what the hell is the deal?
 

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Tell me what springs and weights you put in it and what did you jet it at, I can help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
98700xc said:
Tell me what springs and weights you put in it and I can help you out.
10-62 weights, almond and gold spring, 46 42 34 helix, and silver and blue secondary spring

I do have the adjustable helix, should I crank up the secondary pressure?
 

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I doubt that is right, that is the exact setup I am running in my stock 700, except for the helix.

Get them tuned right, you'll really like them, we have a set on our 600 and it sounds awsome and really hauls.
 

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that doensnt sound right at all. but it been a while since ive messed with one of those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dodgetruck2 said:
I doubt that is right, that is the exact setup I am running in my stock 700, except for the helix.

Get them tuned right, you'll really like them, we have a set on our 600 and it sounds awsome and really hauls.
I just went off of everything that SLP called for
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
anybody else running these pipes on there 700? what do you have for clutching?
 

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Recheck your clutches, I am running 10-66s and still am getting over 8000rpms.
 

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polarisorbust said:
98700xc said:
Tell me what springs and weights you put in it and I can help you out.
10-62 weights, almond and gold spring, 46 42 34 helix, and silver and blue secondary spring

I do have the adjustable helix, should I crank up the secondary pressure?
First off ditch the 46/42/34, the 34 finish angle is killing you, 8 years ago when I ran SLP twins on my 98 I ran a 48/36 full progressive, and it sounds to me that the 290 finish on that almond/gold just isn't getting it, go with a spring that has more finish like a polaris almond/blue 150/310 or a TEAM blue that is the same, silver blue or a EPI purple in hole #3, with this setup it should zing right up to 8-8100 and hold there, if all else fails throw in the stock 60's to see what happens, otherwise if none of the above works I am suspecting a binding problem in the primary clutch, make sure you have a new or relatively new belt and also make sure your center to center and offset are spot on,engagement should be at 4500 with the twin pipes to compensate for the slight loss of low end torque that the twins take away, 205 main jets are good down to 5 above, any temps colder than that go with 210's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well, I took my clutches apart, they are clean and move freely. I ran this same clutch setup with the stock pipe, and it revved to 8000 no problem. I dont get it.
 

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the pipes make more hp but its peak hp. your stock clutching wont work with pipes because its shifting to fast before the pipes can get to there peak hp. that is some of the reasons i dont like slp pipes or some other pipes. they lose midrange power.
do what the others said or crank up the secondary tension and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
madcow said:
the pipes make more hp but its peak hp. your stock clutching wont work with pipes because its shifting to fast before the pipes can get to there peak hp. that is some of the reasons i dont like slp pipes or some other pipes. they lose midrange power.
do what the others said or crank up the secondary tension and see what happens.
I did that, didn't change much, Im going to swap out the primary spring
mine is 150 290, going to try a 165 310
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, after rebuilding the clutch and new spring. THIS BABY RIPS, 8200 RPM. carrys the skis to about 80. Im Happy now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know how to tune, Just went form the starting point that SLP gave me and it was way off. come to find out, I had a bad roller on my clutch, that was the problem.
 

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polarisorbust said:
I know how to tune, Just went form the starting point that SLP gave me and it was way off. come to find out, I had a bad roller on my clutch, that was the problem.
If your still using that 46/42/34 you might want to try my suggestion of the 48/36 full progressive, I ran a Dalton and the pull from above 6000 to peak will really put a smile on your face, glad to hear you got things figured out also, its sad that twin pipes on these sleds get such a bad rap because when they are setup properly they absolutely scream[thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
98700xc said:
polarisorbust said:
I know how to tune, Just went form the starting point that SLP gave me and it was way off. come to find out, I had a bad roller on my clutch, that was the problem.
If your still using that 46/42/34 you might want to try my suggestion of the 48/36 full progressive, I ran a Dalton and the pull from above 6000 to peak will really put a smile on your face, glad to hear you got things figured out also, its sad that twin pipes on these sleds get such a bad rap because when they are setup properly they absolutely scream[thumb]
I am taking your advice, Im trying to find one. SLP said the part number helix that I have is progressive, but Im thinking that 34 degree is killing me. my buddy has a stock but clutched xc 700, same sled. And I walk all over him now.
 
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