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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am painting my snomobile i got from a budyy to rebuild and refurbish for another buddy. my dad has a friend that owns a paintbooth and would spray it for free, but i need to buy the paint. now i need to know what kind of paint to buy ( i alredy know the colors just need to know if it should be acrylic...ect.) and what kind of hardener and thinner? also is there some kind of additive i should get for the paint to prevent it from cracking when the hood flex's? also what do i need for the clear coat?

hears the hood-

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Well...i only do alot of automotive paint. as for hardner we use LH10, the hardner really depends on what temperature you will be spraying in, and can effect the drying time. Also, i would be thinkin about a clear coat to protect the paint but that is just my opinion. And for the hood flexing, there is something called a "Flex Additive" which can be added into the paint at a 4:1:1 (4 parts paint, 1 part hardner, 1 part flex additive/other.) a Flex additive is primarily used for plastic/fiberglass parts which do flex on occasion. Before you paint that, i would suggest "roughing" the surface using 80 or 150 grit sand paper. until it is a dull color, this will ensure a better bond between the base paint and the primer. Good luck man!

P.S= get a mixing cup, this will GREATLY help you in measuring the paint, many are labeled in 4:1, or 4:1:1 amounts.
 

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Guys let's please keep this topic going. This could be helpful to people who want to paint their sleds as a project over the summer :)
 

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I cant say what to use, i need to find it all out myself also, because i got all the official painting stuff, the guns and all, this winter. I am going to talk to a few people and see what they say.
I can say this- dont use sprat paint! I painted my first sled with it, and it lasts about one season, then starts to look like crap, fading and cracking and peeling.
I also know that sanding is key, and without it a perfect painjob can still go down the toilet.
 

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this thread may be helpful to me. i plan on repainting the hood on my Thundercat over the summer to bring it back to the original black instead of the crappy, rattle can green it is now.

i want to clear coat my hood after i paint it. anything special about clear coating? also can i clear coat over the decals?
 

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The flex additive is not needed on a hood. Please talk to me before you do anything!!! PM me with your PH.# and best times to reach you and I'll call you and help you out!
 

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doomer67 said:
Well...i only do alot of automotive paint. as for hardner we use LH10, the hardner really depends on what temperature you will be spraying in, and can effect the drying time. Also, i would be thinkin about a clear coat to protect the paint but that is just my opinion. And for the hood flexing, there is something called a "Flex Additive" which can be added into the paint at a 4:1:1 (4 parts paint, 1 part hardner, 1 part flex additive/other.) a Flex additive is primarily used for plastic/fiberglass parts which do flex on occasion. Before you paint that, i would suggest [highlight=red]"roughing" the surface using 80 or 150 grit sand paper[/highlight=red]. until it is a dull color, this will ensure a better bond between the base paint and the primer. Good luck man!

P.S= get a mixing cup, this will GREATLY help you in measuring the paint, many are labeled in 4:1, or 4:1:1 amounts.
What are you painting with to cover 80 grit sand scratches? Industrial paint with a wagner?
 

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2L8ULuz said:
doomer67 said:
Well...i only do alot of automotive paint. as for hardner we use LH10, the hardner really depends on what temperature you will be spraying in, and can effect the drying time. Also, i would be thinkin about a clear coat to protect the paint but that is just my opinion. And for the hood flexing, there is something called a "Flex Additive" which can be added into the paint at a 4:1:1 (4 parts paint, 1 part hardner, 1 part flex additive/other.) a Flex additive is primarily used for plastic/fiberglass parts which do flex on occasion. Before you paint that, i would suggest [highlight=red]"roughing" the surface using 80 or 150 grit sand paper[/highlight=red]. until it is a dull color, this will ensure a better bond between the base paint and the primer. Good luck man!

P.S= get a mixing cup, this will GREATLY help you in measuring the paint, many are labeled in 4:1, or 4:1:1 amounts.
What are you painting with to cover 80 grit sand scratches? Industrial paint with a wagner?
Hahaha...That is one of the big reasons I told him to PM me before he does anything else.
 

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TRICKPaint said:
2L8ULuz said:
doomer67 said:
Well...i only do alot of automotive paint. as for hardner we use LH10, the hardner really depends on what temperature you will be spraying in, and can effect the drying time. Also, i would be thinkin about a clear coat to protect the paint but that is just my opinion. And for the hood flexing, there is something called a "Flex Additive" which can be added into the paint at a 4:1:1 (4 parts paint, 1 part hardner, 1 part flex additive/other.) a Flex additive is primarily used for plastic/fiberglass parts which do flex on occasion. Before you paint that, i would suggest [highlight=red]"roughing" the surface using 80 or 150 grit sand paper[/highlight=red]. until it is a dull color, this will ensure a better bond between the base paint and the primer. Good luck man!

P.S= get a mixing cup, this will GREATLY help you in measuring the paint, many are labeled in 4:1, or 4:1:1 amounts.
What are you painting with to cover 80 grit sand scratches? Industrial paint with a wagner?
Hahaha...That is one of the big reasons I told him to PM me before he does anything else.
helps prevent chipping, someone didnt do this to my hood and now red is showing through the blue... it looks like shit....
 

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2L8ULuz said:
doomer67 said:
Well...i only do alot of automotive paint. as for hardner we use LH10, the hardner really depends on what temperature you will be spraying in, and can effect the drying time. Also, i would be thinkin about a clear coat to protect the paint but that is just my opinion. And for the hood flexing, there is something called a "Flex Additive" which can be added into the paint at a 4:1:1 (4 parts paint, 1 part hardner, 1 part flex additive/other.) a Flex additive is primarily used for plastic/fiberglass parts which do flex on occasion. Before you paint that, i would suggest [highlight=red]"roughing" the surface using 80 or 150 grit sand paper[/highlight=red]. until it is a dull color, this will ensure a better bond between the base paint and the primer. Good luck man!

P.S= get a mixing cup, this will GREATLY help you in measuring the paint, many are labeled in 4:1, or 4:1:1 amounts.
What are you painting with to cover 80 grit sand scratches? Industrial paint with a wagner?
I realize it's an honest question and I'm not ripping the guy but the response about the wagner made me laugh out loud![thumb]
 

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lol thats what I fig. TRICK

fox440 do you have any ideal what brand paint, or the price range for the paint and clear? What colors are you planing on using?

Not all paint set ups use paint, activators, and reducers . For example, the main paint line I spray at work is Akzo Nobel. They have a few different auto lines. I use U-Tech and Sikkens Autobase Plus. U-Tech their cheaper economy line, and can be mixed as a single stage or a base/clear. U-Tech uses paint, activator, and reducer (fast, med., slow, and a retarder). The Autobase is just paint and a reducer. Air is the activator, and I can keep in a sealed in a can for a year, while the U-tech hardens in the can in a day or two.

pricing- Not all colors are the same. Solids, metallics, pearls all play a part. Along with paint brand. I'll use a metallic blue for example. I can mix a quart of U-Tech base and it can cost lets say $30 for that paint code. Then I mix that same paint code in Autobase and it could cost a $100.

What does your dads buddy do to have a spray booth? One of his distributors can't get auto paint, to help you save one the cost of paint?

sledneck1978 said:
2L8ULuz said:
doomer67 said:
Well...i only do alot of automotive paint. as for hardner we use LH10, the hardner really depends on what temperature you will be spraying in, and can effect the drying time. Also, i would be thinkin about a clear coat to protect the paint but that is just my opinion. And for the hood flexing, there is something called a "Flex Additive" which can be added into the paint at a 4:1:1 (4 parts paint, 1 part hardner, 1 part flex additive/other.) a Flex additive is primarily used for plastic/fiberglass parts which do flex on occasion. Before you paint that, i would suggest [highlight=red]"roughing" the surface using 80 or 150 grit sand paper[/highlight=red]. until it is a dull color, this will ensure a better bond between the base paint and the primer. Good luck man!

P.S= get a mixing cup, this will GREATLY help you in measuring the paint, many are labeled in 4:1, or 4:1:1 amounts.
What are you painting with to cover 80 grit sand scratches? Industrial paint with a wagner?
I realize it's an honest question and I'm not ripping the guy but the response about the wagner made me laugh out loud![thumb]
hahaha doomer67 can save me hours at work. If I can leave some 80-180 grit sand scratches, and paint.[Imaposer]
 

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you do 80 grit to rough it up, then finish with 150-240 Grit. And i'm Certified in Body work :p

Sand paper listing is as follows

40 grit or 36 grit (on a DA) is used to Rough Cut plastic filler
80 grit(hand or DA) is used to finish sand plastic filler.
80 grit (DA) is used to featheredge multiple layers of paint
150,180,or 240 grit discs (DA) are used to Featheredge minimum layers of paint
120,150,180,220, or 280 grit is used to Block sand primed areas
320, or 400 grit (DA) is used to finish sand primed or painted areas prior to being painted
500 or 600 grit is used to finish sand by hand primed or painted areas prior to being painted
1200,1500,2000, or 3000 Grit is used for color sanding a painted or clear coated surface using a softpad
1000,1500,2000 grit (DA) is used to color sand a painted or clear coated surface.

^^ DA= Dual Action Sander. just incase that confused ya guys.

Those are the grits i use on a daily basis in my line of work, hopefully this will help you out.


BTW 2L8ULuz
you start with 80 grit, and move up to a 150-240, and even up as high as a 400 if you want before you paint. Remember the higher grit you use, the less of a bond the paint will make with the primer surface below it. My rule of thumb, 2 coats of primer, let the primer flash, then i will take and wet sand that with 2000 grit, and then i will prepare for my first base coats. i spray my first base, let it flash, spray my 2nd base, let it flash, and sometimes i spray a 3rd base coat but if not then i will go to the Clear Coat. Once the clear coat is dried, i will check for runs in the clear, if there are any i sand them out and if necessary will spray another clear coat (if i sand through the first clear coat)
 

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I wouldn't go that course on a hood, it is only plastic. When I did mine, I used 400 wet, primed, then used 600 wet on the rest. It takes longer, but you have more control on how far down you sand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sledneck1978 said:
2L8ULuz said:
doomer67 said:
Well...i only do alot of automotive paint. as for hardner we use LH10, the hardner really depends on what temperature you will be spraying in, and can effect the drying time. Also, i would be thinkin about a clear coat to protect the paint but that is just my opinion. And for the hood flexing, there is something called a "Flex Additive" which can be added into the paint at a 4:1:1 (4 parts paint, 1 part hardner, 1 part flex additive/other.) a Flex additive is primarily used for plastic/fiberglass parts which do flex on occasion. Before you paint that, i would suggest [highlight=red]"roughing" the surface using 80 or 150 grit sand paper[/highlight=red]. until it is a dull color, this will ensure a better bond between the base paint and the primer. Good luck man!

P.S= get a mixing cup, this will GREATLY help you in measuring the paint, many are labeled in 4:1, or 4:1:1 amounts.
What are you painting with to cover 80 grit sand scratches? Industrial paint with a wagner?
I realize it's an honest question and I'm not ripping the guy but the response about the wagner made me laugh out loud![thumb]
wow... yah i know how to prep. and i would never use 80 grit or a wagner? im just looking for what aditives to use and what ratios to use them at?

my dads friend has a paint booth to do projects on the side. he used to own his own custom auto body and paint shop but he moved to a new shop and is doing wood work now but still has his paint booth for side projects. i dont think he has any paint supliers anymore so i have to go get the paint on my own. what brand of paint should i get? along with all the hardener brands and all that good stuff. i want to make the hood black with a little red in it somewhere. i would like to stay as cheap as possible but still get a high quality paint job too.
 

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look up a paint supply company locally. Some will only carry one brand. While others will carry a few from the economy line to their high end paint, and the prices will be all over the board. The ratios will depend on what paint brand you buy. The aditives will also depend on the paint you buy, and will be the brand name of the paint you buy. How much is cheap?
 

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Duplicolor makes a line of budget automotive paint line called paint shop. It is laquer based, and comes ready to shoot now I think. A quart only costs about 20 dollars. What did you use for primer? Laquer over enamel is a naught naughty no no, It will fall right off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i used a duplicolor primer
 
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