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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought a 98 powder special EFI. It has the same motor as the 98 zr 600 efi. Well aparently the guy sucked snow into the cylinders and blew the whole topend apart. I don't think the cylinders are salvagable. And the guy said something about needing the updated zr600 cylinders because of some exaust port thing as well as pistons with 2 tiny holes drilled in the side. On the piston there is a pocket hole that looks like a melt mark (to me). My step dad said something about a crank seal or something that could be leaking that could've leaned the sled out and caused a melt down. But he put a DND pipe on it or something and my buddy told me that if he didn't program the pipe into the EFI that could've been the reason. And I know know anything about efi motors, so i just dont know whats going on. If I order everything I need from intown its going to cost 998$ And when we do get it running is there a break in procedure? And how do make sure there is no air pocket in the oil lines when I first start it up so it doesn't seize? any help would be much appreciated.
 

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Damaged cylinders can be rebuilt, companies such as Millenium Technologies do a great job with repair and replating. When I sent them two cylinders, they charged me about 200 bucks for the repair; I sent them two pistons, and they fit the pistons to the cylinders as well.

If the previous owner added an after-market pipe and did not put a chip for that pipe in the ECU, it will definitely burn down the engine. You have to match the fuel flow to the air flow; with an aftermarket pipe, the air flow will be greater than what the stock ECU is programmed for, so you go lean.

When you have the engine down, replace both crank seals and don't worry about it. Your problem could have been a crank seal, it's apart; replace it for peace of mind.

On the oil pump, there should be some way to bleed the air out of it. After I get oil out of the bleed screw, I crank the engine over until I get oil out of the hoses to the carb flange. I would also mix the first tank 50:1 to make SURE you have the oil pump working.

As far as break in- it's not recommended to go wide open at first; vary the throttle as well. Some recommend going to a mineral oil for the first tank to allow the engine parts to break in, then go to synthetic for long life.

hope that helps! Snow's coming!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I also forgot, there is this thing with a yelow wire he said makes the sled think it runs like 10 degrees cooler or somethign so it leans out more? have you ever heard of this? But it has a quick connect so you connect it whenever you want. I can try and get pics of the cylinders tonight but i think it will just refeclt like the pistons.


Thank you VERY much BC Dan!! That's helps GREATLY! One more question, the guy I bought it from said to NOT run premix fuel because it would mess up the EFI injectors or something?! But I guy he hasn't proved to be the smartest guy yet I guess. And how do you program the pipe into the EFI?

Here's where the piston is wore about even with the groove where the ring sits in:
[attachment=49328]
[attachment=49329]
 

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The wire you speak of sounds like a "premium fuel option." I know my buddies '02 ZR had a wire, that when plugged in, would allow you to run higher octane fuel for whatever reason. I know the Firecats and some Polaris' have switches for it as well. I didn't think the ZR2's had them, but I could be wrong.

If the sled does have an aftermarket pipe, you will have to buy an aftermarket ECU chip for it. You can get them from Black Magic Racing or D&D Racing. Look at your ECU; there should be a symbol (triangle, square, or circle); order whatever symbol you need. The chip will run you about $180 + shipping. If you do get the chip, you should make sure you are clutched properly, and you will also have to run premium (91-92 octane) fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
just what I need, another 200$ And he has a clutch kit in there...
 

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Look on the bright side...if it's already clutched, that's $150 you don't have to spend! [8D]
 

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It actually looks like the piston is scuffed...although it is kind of hard to tell by the pics.

As far as running premix with injectors, I have never heard of problems coming of it. You could turn up the oil injector to play it safe.

Break in period, they say is one tank. Two wouldn't hurt but it's not necessary. BC-Dan is pretty much right on as far as the throttle and rpm's go. Don't open it up across a lake right away, but don't baby it either. I've heard of the "break in oil" thing, I wouldn't recommend it, but maybe that's just me. DO NOT run synthetic during the break in period, this will not allow the motor to break in properly. However, after break in, synthetic is way better.
 
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