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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I just picked up what i think is a 1994 Polaris 600 XLT Special...Pic attached, tell me what you think it might be. Bought it for $50.00 and was promised it would run after fuel pump rebuild and pilot jet install in far left carb. did this all and it ran beautifully, rode nice, and was very responsive. now a few days later it doesn't want to start without ether and wont stay running all too long. how long should it take for a sled to warm up? could it be so damn hard to keep running cause it's not getting warmed up? I know i am going to have to go back and double check my fuel pump rebuild, open up the other 2 carbs and go through them. ohh! also how far should a pilot jet be installed into one of these mikuni carbs...ive been told all the way...then I've herd your supposed to count the amount of turns to take it out, and then put it back in that far...but since it didnt have the pilot jet to start out i dont know how far to put it back in. basically I'm looking for a quick run through of a "ready for winter" tune up for this machine. also what year it might be...i know for sure its an indy 600, but not what year.

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make sure you turn the screw in LIGHTLY seat it and turn it out 1 and 1/4 turns for starters.definatley clean all three carbs and check the plug color. plugs should be a cardboard brown color on the electrode. also DONT use ether to keep it running, it is VERY dry. i would use WD-40. but make sure carbs are all clean and synced.
 

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From the pic it looks like a 93. Look on the plate on the side of the tunnel it should have a year on it. Also look at the motor on the recoil cover there should be a sticker on top of it with the motor size if it is a 93 the motor is a 580.
 

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That my friend would definitely be a 93 XLT 580, if it's the original hood/decals.
The sled should run on its own without you maintaining the choke/throttle within about 10-20 seconds. Drive away time depends on the ambient temp, so does the time it takes to get to normal op temp. But as a good measure, let it run for a few min before you attempt to drive away. Good idea to lift the rear and run it some to break the track loose and get things going; can save belts from burning that way.
Before you go back into the pump, do a good carb cleaning and syncronization. if you need a step by step walkthru of this, pm me.
The pilot jet should be seated lightly, and definitely screwed in all the way, but lightly.
What bobinwi is talking about is the air screw. and the spec for that should be on a white decal located under the hood along with the other carb specs. Most are about 1.5 turns out. The air screws are the little brass screws, slot head, on the left side of the carbs angled down. when cleaning the carbs, take this screw, all the jets out, and clean everything thoroughly. use a small piece of wire to clean the inside of the jets if they are really gummed up.
Other things to check for the year are the chaincase fluid, grease all zerks, hifax wear, belt, clutches, coolant, etc. Also good idea to start the year with a fresh tank of fuel. let me know if you need more info. -Polaris Doc
 

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Do like Polaris Doc said,
One thing I ran into when I checked a fuel pump on an older sled is
when I pulled it off there was a lot of air in the fuel lines it took some time to get it out but after a while it started pulling fuel just fine.
Just something I ran into.
 

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50 bucks!!!!the ski's are worth that.hopefully you can get it running good,good luck
 

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brnr17:
I believe you are correct with the black tunnel. IF that is the original hood/decals, and not just something off another sled, then that decal kit is definitely a 93. Could have had a tunnel replaced, black paint polished off, or it could be something different with that hood. Would have to run the numbers to verify. I think that's the least of his problems right now though....and now it's snowing! sucks to be broke down...
-Polaris Doc
 

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WATER IN THE GAS!!!!!!!!! I just fixed PolarisRocks sled, and it was iced from the tank to the carbs. What a pain in the rear, 10 degrees outside and ice was thick. Fuel pump, fuel filter, even the pick up line in the tank was iced. Did the exact same thing, wouldnt run. NEVER NEVER NEVER USE STARTING FLUID! Tends to raise heck with piston skirts.
 

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It's a piece of crap...I will give ya $75.00 for it...LOL nice find and good luck...give those carbs a good cleaning and I bet you have a good machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks guys...ran through the stuff you all said. put on new fuel lines,a new fuel pump, cleaned all the carbs out fresh 91 octane runs like a top now. really appreciate it guys after the first few day i thought this thing was just going to be a money pit but with a bit of help we got 'er figured out!
 
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