Once a plug is fouled its FUKT!It doesn't matter how clean they look or if you can see spark or not,once they are screwed they are screwed.I don't know why,but that's the way it is.Get new ones and toss out the old.
That black box is your voltage regulator and the 2 wires hanging out are for your detonation probe.When your sled cuts back on top RPM's does it bog down or does it act like its stuttering and missing?no i got it used and he fiddled with it. can you point me to where the probe is and where it connects to along computer sensor thing. id like to make sure he properley took it off and disconnected it, everything im reading is pointing to this along with obvious clutch problems. it wont idle under 3k soemtime starts right up sometimes not. i need to find where they hooked up and probe and computer thing.
i have a black box by my throttle warmer switch engine side with 2 wires unplugged. is that where the probe went? if so id like to get a probe and pug it in to see if it idles or not along with computerbox or whatever.
if you have a probe your not using could i use it for experimentation?
That is the correct wires.Like I said on my last post,wiring it like that completes the circuit tricking the computer to think the exhaust probe is hooked up.Try it first before you buy any clutch springs.If it hits 8000-8400 RPMs without stuttering its good to go.I would go with 390 370 390 for the main jets.
Yah,I know it gets confusing.I told my buddy the opposite once( by accident) and probably would have blew his sled up if I didn't think about it and catch it.Here is what the SLP instructions say about the EGT probe wires. To disable the computer, disconnect the yellow wire and black wire leading from the computer to the three pin plug. Do not unplug the yellow wire leading to the voltage regulator.
I did this to mine and it runs fine.
My bad, I should have said to raise the e-clips one position, dropping the needles.