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for improving a hole shot on a '93 XLT what color springs and weights should I go with no other mods done 96 studs. can't afford helix just looking for input on springs and weights
 

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if the sled runs good for mid range and top end, i would look at the chasis, gearing,
are you spinning a lot?
does the front come up a lot or little?
you could bring your bottom gear up a tooth or two
play with the limiter straps and coupler blocks to let the wieght transfer but still hold the front down some to get you a lot more traction.
if you are spinning all the engine and clutching in the world wont help any.
you can adjust the suspension for free!!!
 

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Of course he asked for springs and weights, yet you mention nothing of what he inquired about.

I dunno, but I'm sure someone might actually answer your question.
 

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Make the clutch engage later, tighten the spring in the back clutch.
 

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Originally posted by ZRT 600
[br]Make the clutch engage later, tighten the spring in the back clutch.
The spring tension in the secondary clutch has absolutly zilch to do with when the primary clutch engages.
 

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Yes it does, you change the spring tension by changing what notch it is in, which changes where it engages, well from what I was told.
 

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No. when you change the spring tension in your secondary clutch, it has NOTHING to do with when the primary engages. If you were told otherwise, you were told wrong.
 

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changing the spring tension in the secondary will change the upshift will not touch the engagment . stronger spring in the primary will change engagment
 

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So what do the notches in the clutch where the spring go do.
 

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They change the shift pattern like Bobby said. They can also change WOT (Wide open throttle) RPM's. Each hole is approx 200 RPM. The tighter, the higher the engine will rev. To make it engage later you need a stiffer spring in the primary or you need lighter weights, or you need notched weights.
 

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im thinking that there is a issue with what the primary and secondary are
primary (clutch on the engine)
Secondary (driven clutch)
changing the hole on the driven clutch will ONLY change shift patterns usually by creating differents upshift spots this affects the primary shift pattern very little secondary will not change anything on the primary side of the clutching unless TONS is done to it and if that is what you heard you heard wrong my friend
 

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All the experts suggest that the second hole in the secondary is where the spring should be left. And I have found this to be true
 

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all i know is.....when yure secondary spring is tighter..yure sled will accelerate faster because its harder for the sheaves to open up...and top rpms go up..listen to polaris man...he is an expert...i have a 96 600 xlt..i changed to a 42/36 billet helix and blue spring in 2 hole...totally changed the performance of my sled ...it really goes like three holes now!!!!! massive improvement over stock...plus i get better fuel economy.
 

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I raced a 93 XLT this weekend... Across a lake that was prolly a 1/2 mile long. I was right next to him the whole time. Neither of us had anything on eachother. He had 144 studs (although not in the greatest of shape).

I thought it would have been alot faster.

-Dean
 

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I owned a 93 XLT special that was piped, clutched, stock gearing, 144 picks, gutted air box, jetted on the money that was clocked at 104 mph. Didnt matter if I had a 1/4 mile or 1 mile, thats all it would do. It would hit 100 at about 1000' which is pretty decent for 580. I miss that sled!
 
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