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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I set my secondary last week to 1/8" above the sheeves as I've seen posted on TUSF before.
WOW...very hot engagement...but when I lift the back of the sled the track turns, not very quickly though, and the primary is not engaging at idle. So is this OK, or should I back it off a little?

Thanks
Kev
 

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It should be alright, just so it doesn't take off on ya.
 

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Mines the same, I have my adjuster set to 4 (range is 1 to 5) and it has 1/16 to 1/18 projection. When there is weight on the track, you don't even need the emergency brake, it will sit there. As soon as you start it on the stand track will spin slowly at idle. I think this is normal too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys,
The only annoying thing is the snowflap getting stuck under the tunnel when I lift the back end.
I'm gonna leave it as is, it really snaps the way it is.
Thanks again,
K
 

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500fasenuf,
my wifes xc is set up like that and also turns the track slowly at idle when lifted up. No big deal. I remember some of my older doos had a bearing on the clutch shaft that prevented this, but it seems that they have done away with it.
cnc
 

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Okay, maybe this is a silly questions, but....I find it odd that the track would turn if the primary is not engaging at idle as you said. What's driving the secondary and thus the track then?
 

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The belt is tight on/against the primary even though it's open (or not engaged) there is just enough tension to make the track turn when there is no pressure on it...
 

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I just put a new belt on an the same thing happens; track creep at idle, spins slowly on the stand, or squeals at idle sometimes. [:(] It's a 92 Indy, which doesn't appear to have an adjustment option on the secondary. Any Ideas how to stop/adjust it? [?] The new belt is an Ultimax2. I confirmed it's the model # for the sled. It seems to ride correctly in the sheaves.
 

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I wouldn't worry about it, so long as your sled doens't creep away on you when stopped. As soon as the belt wears a bit it will stop. The other option is to add a sheave on the inside of you 2ndary to widen the gap and reduce engagement - that's what's done on the older machines without the external adjuster.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by brsacjab
[br]I just put a new belt on an the same thing happens; track creep at idle, spins slowly on the stand, or squeals at idle sometimes. [:(] It's a 92 Indy, which doesn't appear to have an adjustment option on the secondary. Any Ideas how to stop/adjust it? [?] The new belt is an Ultimax2. I confirmed it's the model # for the sled. It seems to ride correctly in the sheaves.
Where does the belt sit in the driven clutch, is it level/over/under the sheaves?

Here's a graphic off a '97 600XC...it does have the adjuster cam, but I think that on sleds w/o the cam you can add/remove washers #9 and #10 to get the right adjustment.
/snofan/../images/users/500fasEnuf/97_600xcclutch.gif
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong
 

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Since we're talking about 2ndary Clutch set-up... How much axial play should there be? Believe the book says 0.5mm to 1mm, however I had about a 1/4 inch before (and after) I cleaned my 2ndary. I ended up taking out two washers to reduce the play, but now wondering why it was so far off to being with? Should I put the washers back on depsite the book saying 1mm is okay?
 

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to brsacjab with the '92 Indy.

I'm pretty sure that with those older secondarys there are washers inbetween the two halves of the secondays bodys that you use to adjust how the belt rides.


As for the track spinning at idle.... you'll be hard pressed to find a sled with a decent belt that won't spin the track at idle with the track off the ground...... It's a good thing if that's happening because you don't have a ton of friction (too tigt of track, chain, etc.) so it can spin.

As long as the sled isn't taking off while it's ideling you've got no problem (i'm willing to bet it takes at least another 1000 RPMs above your idles to make the track turn when it's on the ground.
 

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92 Indy EFI SKS- Thanks for all the feedback guys, I should have mentioned that it has an EPI trail kit(weights, helix and both springs). It takes off like a rocket when goosed if I'm not careful. It does creep at idle after a ride if my big butt isn't on the sled [;)]

I'll get some washers to adjust the secondary. Should I be adding washers to spread the sheaves (looser) or taking away washers to squeeze (tighten) the belt [?] Is there a minimum number of washers like 1 or 2 to use ?
 

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You'll need to add washers to loosen the sheaves so the 2ndary isn't engaged as much at idle. No minimum necessary, just whatever is necessary. There is likely one or two already in there.
 

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brsacjab, how do you like your EPI performance kit. I've been thinking of doing some clutch work on my Indy 500 - but would like to hear some feedback. Did you notice a big improvement in performance?
 

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Indy5 - Love the kit, pulls hard in any situation esp. out of corners, noticable improvment. I would like to take the engagment down a bit though for tight trail riding, Currently engages (moves sled) with my weight [:I], at around 4500-5000 rpm and likes a hard launch. I was gonna call them after the season to see if I could lower it a bit with different spring. The kit had all the parts, I was replacing the drive clutch, and so needed new spring and weights, went for the kit to be sure to get matched components, happy with the results.
 

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Brsacjab - thanks for the info. What comes in the kit, the one I saw had the two springs and the 2ndary helix. Does it come with weights too?

BTW, by changing the primary spring to a softer one, and thus lowering your engagement rpm isn't that going to reduce the pull as you'll be engaging below the powerband? What is the option here, to lower the primarly spring and increase the weights so it engages lower but the primary will grap earlier with more weight? I'm just learning all the nuances of tuning to figure what does what. Also believe the tigher the 2nary the slower it will be to shift and thus more acceleration (?) and faster decel (backshifting. Is that right? Is it standard to change the helix when you change the 2ndary spring?

Appreciate any insights someone can give me on the differnt tuning options.
 
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