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I downloaded the chart and I can't seem to match up any spring on the chart with the springs at the place where I'm going to get the spring.
Am I missing something?
Here's the site
Cheers
Pea
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The springs on this chart are Polaris springs with Polaris part numbers.
The EPI springs are not to far off on some of their specifications but keep in mind that the compressed length is different on the two charts. Polaris calls out a 1.19 fully compressed length and the EPI are compressed to a 1.25 inch length. This will give a different reading even if springs are identical.
When buying aftermarket springs and weights you must be aware of what you are buying and realize there may be a difference in performance from how the factory parts work.
I you want the clutch to perform the same as when it was calibrated from the factory then I would buy factory parts, if you understand clutching and are comfortable tuning the clutch then aftermarket parts can be made to perform as well or sometimes better than factory for some applications.
Again read the specifications and realize what you are buying.
 

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Gentleman. I have two clutch problems. 93 XLT clutch engages around 4k and when it does it grinds and slips a bit sort of a ratcheting sound, then whamo it grabs and away you go. I am very nervous because my wife and i have a long trip planned in two weeks. The other clutch problem is my 91 Indy trail. It vibrates like crazy and makes so much noise it almost isnt worth riding. I said almost. I am thinking that i would like to buy a rebuild kit for the two clutches and install them to make sure i am safe to take the family for a ride. Is there such thing? I would also like to keep it as stock as possible or at least aftermarket stock style because i am looking for durability and reliability not extra performace. The sleds run great other than this. Thanks for the help,
 

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yes, you can buy rebuild kits for sleds, if I remember right, pins cost about $3 each, weights cost around $70 for the set, spring is like $30, rollers are fairly cheap and theres a small bushing, but I forget what it costed. secondary is cheap to rebuild, 3 buttons (slides that the helix slides on) that cost about $3 each, helix is around $50, and the spring is like $20-30.
 

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jeastin880 said:
Gentleman. I have two clutch problems. 93 XLT clutch engages around 4k and when it does it grinds and slips a bit sort of a ratcheting sound, then whamo it grabs and away you go. The other clutch problem is my 91 Indy trail. It vibrates like crazy and makes so much noise it almost isnt worth riding.
I am thinking in the first one that the bushing the inner sheave slides on may be worn. Don't know if it is replaceable on that clutch.

The 2nd one could just be all worn parts but might also have a worn bushing. If you have never rebuilt these before I would suggest getting some knowledgeable help. Hate to see you still have problems when you are depending on them duriong your trip.

Remember the sheaves are balanced and oriented to each other so they MUST be assenbled in their original position.
 

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If i buy a rebiuld kit i will have to get a alignment tool as well correct? I am a very mechanical person so i am expecting to do this work myself, as my wallet tells me as well. I have a clymer manual for the sleds so i will follow that close. Where should i go to get the correct factory type parts??
 

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jeastin880 said:
If i buy a rebiuld kit i will have to get a alignment tool as well correct? I am a very mechanical person so i am expecting to do this work myself, as my wallet tells me as well. I have a clymer manual for the sleds so i will follow that close. Where should i go to get the correct factory type parts??
There is a gauge to check the shaft center to center distance and also the offset between the primary and secondary.

If you don't have a source to get a discount from, I would suggest looking in Dennis Kirk for both the parts and the tool. Here is a link.

http://denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/cmn/rootcat_mmy.jsp?rootCatId=3&redirect=false&store=Main
 
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