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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2009 Switch (non dragon). I've had all the shocks (Ryde & Fox PS5) revalved for my weight and riding style. Still bottom out. I weigh about 225 with gear. I've set the block to maximum stiffness and the couplers to max linkage. I cant get anymore bottoming protection than I have without rebuilding shocks or getting new ones. I trust the guy that redid them as he does work for Fast and Polaris. So I upgraded the rear spring to a .40X heavy spring. I now only get about 1" static sag when I'm on it but still bottom out on really rough trails.

So I'm going to replace the track shocks with Walker Evans. The 2011 Switch uses a WE 7043717 non-res front and WE 7043205 rear. Second option, I went to the dealer this week and he suggested a WE performance kit in the accessories brochure that uses the same 7043205 rear but calls a 7043383 remote res. front track shock. Last use I see is a 2007 Dragon.

I can get the accessory set for $540 total. Where the shocks for the 2011 are $600+$350=$950.

Still trying to decide between the WE 7043717 2011 non-clicker Switchback and the 2007 7043383 clicker front track shock. Anyone know what my best option is? Im OK spending the extra $ if the 2011 is a better shock package vs the accessory kit. I just hate to get one and wish I went the other way.
 

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coil overs is the way to go. i think you will be happy with the 2011 walkers.

have you thought about the rydefx air 2.0's? ive put some miles on those and it improved cornering and riding through the moguls on the trails and everywhere else. and those were on a switchback FST. heavy front end, and they never bottomed on me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm talking track shocks only at this point. I've seen so many concerns about the air shocks that I'm going coils. However, I did put the M10 Assault air shocks in my wifes 128" Polaris M10 rear and LOVE them. She blows by me on the rough stuff - back end flies through it.

No matter how I do it, I will need to buy the 7043205 rear track clicker. If I get the accessory kit, I get the front clicker coil over for $140 new (kit is $540 vs. $400 for the one shock). Sounds like most opinions are of the front floats and not alot of feedback on the rears. So I'm going to try that route.
 

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stay away from AIR 2.0's not worth the effort or time and money getting them recharged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
re: stiffer springs, I did. This is a torsion coil suspension and I changed them from a .357 to a much larger .406.

So I decided to pull the trigger and ordered the WE performance package from the local dealer. $540 for the set.
 

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How can you bottom out with only 1" of sag? Something sounds wrong. A lot of guys weigh 225 with gear and never touch the suspension, yet they rarely bottom out. It's not like you weigh 395 or anything. I don't think the IQ's were known for bottoming out, so I wouldn't count on the 2011's being set up that much different.
 

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bj.hardy said:
stay away from AIR 2.0's not worth the effort or time and money getting them recharged.
cheaper than doing the walkers air shocks.
 

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Bmxican said:
bj.hardy said:
stay away from AIR 2.0's not worth the effort or time and money getting them recharged.
cheaper than doing the walkers air shocks.

go a diff route then. the air 2.0s are junk.
 

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Man, you guys do not understand how suspension works.

The issue is that they are still valved to soft. Perhaps you ride more aggressively than your suspension tuner thought. I know I bottom my new sled pretty often just ditch banging, not even jumping. But then again I ride quite aggressively.

Springs are there for really only two purposes:
1. Ride height.
2. push the shock back out (rebound)

Changing the preload only changes the ride height. It DOES NOT make anything "stiffer". To get a shock "stiffer" you need to increase the oil viscosity or revalve (reduce the size of the holes on the valve stack the oil travels through, increasing the damping). Then, depending on how much you changed the rebound stack, you may need to go to a higher rate spring in order to get the shock to rebound fast enough and not "pack down" in certain bump sequences.

So the W/E may or may not fix your problem, depending on how they are valved. They probably are valved significantly stiffer though as they are geared towards the aggressive rider or jumper.
 

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^^If he's already had his shocks revalved for his weight, do you think $950 for '11 shocks that aren't revalved is going to solve his problem?
 

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Lol. Everyone gives the 2.0 airs a bad rep. I have them on my fst a sled that weighs 80 lbs more then your switchback. I ride pretty hard, can and do bang ditches and small jump with the best of them. I have mine 90% setup and rarely bottom out as the dealer set them up for my weight and riding style. Both my sleds have extremely stiff suspension once you have any shock set up for you its a dream to ride.
 

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Bmxican said:
bj.hardy said:
stay away from AIR 2.0's not worth the effort or time and money getting them recharged.
cheaper than doing the walkers air shocks.
Actually air 2.0 are more expensive than Walker Evans. The air 2.0 are almost $900 a pair. I have them on my 08 dragon, and my brother has them on his 09 Dragon Switchback and we have never had any problems.Love them!
 

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polaris50thman said:
Bmxican said:
bj.hardy said:
stay away from AIR 2.0's not worth the effort or time and money getting them recharged.
cheaper than doing the walkers air shocks.
Actually air 2.0 are more expensive than Walker Evans. The air 2.0 are almost $900 a pair. I have them on my 08 dragon, and my brother has them on his 09 Dragon Switchback and we have never had any problems.Love them!
your a lucky man, everyone ive known who has had them have had issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks guys for all the input. I agree a properly setup RydeFX front track and Position Sensitive FOX rear shock should have fixed the issue. Also agree that springs are for setting static sag. I'm hoping the remote clickers with the original springs will give me more flexibility - I can set them soft on well groomed trails and crank them up at the end of the day/weekend when the trail is a 2 foot washboard.

One thing that will really make me mad is when I figure out the WE clicker is a rebound adjustment and not a compression clicker. I should have figured that out before I pulled the trigger. If nothing else, the needle should help bottoming.
 

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Hmm. I've never seen a shock that had rebound adjustment without compression adjustment, usually it is the other way around if they only have 1 adjustment? Are you sure on that?
 

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Should have just ditched the PS5 shock and bought a clicker rear, nothing wrong with the center shock...
 
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