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Im looking to build a lake racing sled with a polaris xcr 800 dose anybody have any ideas for motor, suspension upgrades.
Polaris xcr lake racer
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2,585 Posts
Bore it out, clutch it, pipe it, paint it pink (so it'll go faster).
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Go to http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/index.php?showforum=353 and talk to XCR1250. This will get you started. There are a lot of guys on HCS that are fond of the XCR 800 and they exchange ideas frequently.
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With an XCR 800, you're going the need to stud the living shit out of it to get traction, gear it to the top speed you want to hit, then bore pipe and clutch it to get it there fast.
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If you're doing strictly ice racing look into a Wahl Bros skid, best in the business for ice racing.
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I agree with above posts - WL
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yeah same here thanks for the help and the website's
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8,842 Posts
you cant bore it,
a good port job, spend the money on the pipes, they will make more performance than other hp bolt ons.
xcr 1250 and the other guys know how to get good drag setups, i know speed.
what kind of lake racing? out on the snow or on ice. personally the money spent on a whal skid would leave you stuck to shaved ice only,
the best thing to do is put an 800 xcr top end on an ultra bottom end. get some 9200 rpm pipes for lake racing, advance the timing to compliment the heads and fuel requirements. the ultra is an easy 50+ lbs lighter than the 800 xcr.
for drags traction means alot, for speed runs you can spin a little. with my bone stock 800 xcr other than clutching and jettig i was getting 108.4 mph in the 1000', there were many htg 180 kit xcrs that didnt tune for speed they tuned for hp and they had a hard time with all there money spent getting 107 mph.
no matter what kind of race you are doing testing is where you will win, the guys out testing are the guys winning.
a good port job, spend the money on the pipes, they will make more performance than other hp bolt ons.
xcr 1250 and the other guys know how to get good drag setups, i know speed.
what kind of lake racing? out on the snow or on ice. personally the money spent on a whal skid would leave you stuck to shaved ice only,
the best thing to do is put an 800 xcr top end on an ultra bottom end. get some 9200 rpm pipes for lake racing, advance the timing to compliment the heads and fuel requirements. the ultra is an easy 50+ lbs lighter than the 800 xcr.
for drags traction means alot, for speed runs you can spin a little. with my bone stock 800 xcr other than clutching and jettig i was getting 108.4 mph in the 1000', there were many htg 180 kit xcrs that didnt tune for speed they tuned for hp and they had a hard time with all there money spent getting 107 mph.
no matter what kind of race you are doing testing is where you will win, the guys out testing are the guys winning.
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1,219 Posts
if it runs race it.
take the advice of madcow.
throwing a bunch of money at it, in my opinion, is a waste!
get it on the ice and work up with it. see where youre at, then try a lil clutching, then a lil gearing, or vice versa. to be fast you need experience, what works for you and what doesnt. yes its gonna cost money, but you can go buy a sled already built but if you dont clutch/jet/set suspension etc for the ice youre on and the day youre racing, it wont be fast!
DONT throw the money at it right away.
and whatever you do, even if you could bore an xcr800 motor, do not bore a motor unless you need to remove damage.
the minimal gains from boring a motor are never worth it, specially in racing when youre prone to motor damage. leave the boring till when damage is done.
good luck
take the advice of madcow.
throwing a bunch of money at it, in my opinion, is a waste!
get it on the ice and work up with it. see where youre at, then try a lil clutching, then a lil gearing, or vice versa. to be fast you need experience, what works for you and what doesnt. yes its gonna cost money, but you can go buy a sled already built but if you dont clutch/jet/set suspension etc for the ice youre on and the day youre racing, it wont be fast!
DONT throw the money at it right away.
and whatever you do, even if you could bore an xcr800 motor, do not bore a motor unless you need to remove damage.
the minimal gains from boring a motor are never worth it, specially in racing when youre prone to motor damage. leave the boring till when damage is done.
good luck
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55 Posts
Yeah i was talking to some of the guys on HCS and one said you cant bore the cyls because there different. Thanks for the ultra bottem end info dident know that
Yep some of them said ride it for a season and go from there
Also thinking about calling HTG
Yep some of them said ride it for a season and go from there
Also thinking about calling HTG
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8,842 Posts
I wouldnt go with htg other than pipes, there porting is nothing special and they are pricks alot of the time on the phone. xcr 1250 or patriotic innovations will do a lot better port job than htg or flannery hands down. heck even i do more aggressive porting than htg or flannery, they are very conservitive because they want you to feel an increase in power but dont want people coming back with snagged rings.
if this was my 800 xcr and building it for pure lake racing, i would get as light as possible, 9600-9800 rpm jaws pipes, very aggressive porting and 44 mm round slide carbs, chopper city heads for high compression.roll the timing way ahead.
i would run close to stock gearing with a cobra 121 or 136 track for snow drags or a hack saw 1" lug with 192 lake race studs or sharpend trail studs for snow/ice racing.
not the engine case is lighter, the chassis is lighter, an ultra sp 96 model was claimed at 509 lbs dry, and the xcr 800 was claimed at 555 lbs dry.
for a pure lake race sled i would run a mountain fit hood with no lights or gauges, just your digitron or whatever guage pod you are running, that would shave about an easy 30 lbs off the sled,
if this was my 800 xcr and building it for pure lake racing, i would get as light as possible, 9600-9800 rpm jaws pipes, very aggressive porting and 44 mm round slide carbs, chopper city heads for high compression.roll the timing way ahead.
i would run close to stock gearing with a cobra 121 or 136 track for snow drags or a hack saw 1" lug with 192 lake race studs or sharpend trail studs for snow/ice racing.
not the engine case is lighter, the chassis is lighter, an ultra sp 96 model was claimed at 509 lbs dry, and the xcr 800 was claimed at 555 lbs dry.
for a pure lake race sled i would run a mountain fit hood with no lights or gauges, just your digitron or whatever guage pod you are running, that would shave about an easy 30 lbs off the sled,
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