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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 01 XCR 800, probably for the type of riding I do, I should have bought a different sled, but the big block was very hard to pass up for the price and, its a BIG BLOCK!! Surprisingly enough, it doesn't have bad trail manners. I've had the sled since it was new and over the years have been trying different things to get the performance out of it that I know its capable of. I have heard that these sleds are very de-tuned from the factory. Just looking for some popular mods to these sleds that would really wake it up, not looking for a lake racer but definately some ski carrying, neck snapping power. Open to any and all ideas.
 

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i would throw some spl pipe on there and clutch acordingly. i shaved the heads and got the squish angle changed. gear it also, stud it if not already and go kick some a$$, not that it doesn't already.

i have a 00 and 02 as you can see the 02 is awsome and the 00 i have set for lake racing at my cousins cottage. on the 00 i have slp pipes, head shaved, geared low for 660', thin head gasket, and clutched with .5 speed track and 196 1" woody's. i still fall behind my cousins 99 xcr 1000 with same mods minus pipes (his are custom beacuse he has hid custom 1000 motor in it) and he has 212 hp dynoed, this is his trail lake racer sled.
 

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my personal experience with slp is not so good. I would deffinatly not recomend them.
I have set up to many htg motors to have them run out day after day to have slp for my own sled be a pain in the rear and I tried for 3 years to get slp to buy them back. no luck so I cut them up and made them work myself. I would not recomend slp on any sled anymore after there new twin pipes on the 800 either.
for a trail sled I would keep the motor stock and add a 1.25 track with a better rear shock.

otherwise my motor work with stock pipes is about as good as it gets. day to day driving and stock look and sound but arm stretching pull.
 

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Yup. I believe the 144" track is about the best of both worlds for deep snow and groovin' down the trails.
First and foremost: clutching. Get it dialed in for your riding. This is minimal cost.
Second: suspension. Read up on the xtra-10 and get the settings you like fixed, add Hyper-Fax.
Third: Look at 136" or 144" track with proper studding. You do not have to drop the suspension too far for clearance. 3/4 inch maybe would be fine. You can forget gearing, just put in 8-tooth drivers and you'll have all the clearance you need at the front. Woody's 1.325" is good for a 1.25" track.
Fourth: ATACC. Jet for -20* F and forget changing jets again.
If the above doesn't trip your trigger you can do these in roughly the following order:
vForce of course
Madcows cylinder and upper case mods
Bored carbs
Airbox mods
Lightweight parts (if you have the coin)
or Doug Flannery porting/case mods
HTG trail pipes
HTG head mods for shim kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Those are all good ideas, I guess I should have started with what I have done to it and then see if you guy's can take me the rest of the way. My problem is I have a buddy running a 02 Viper that is kickin my butt in short distance drags, and he's bone stock. I think it has either slowed since I bought it new, or, I have not done the right mods. I have checked compression and got a reading on all 3 are consistent at 140 psi ea.
I have switched jets from 440 stock to 420
196 studs - (need to be replaced/worn)
MBRP silencer/stock pipes
dropped a tooth on the bottom gear
I think that clutching is my main problem, what do you guy's think that I should do for starters as far as clutching, I ride mainly trails but I open her up now and then and when I do, I wanna kick some butt. I guess as far as clutching, I'm looking for suggestions like what spring to run where and what weights, helix and/or secondary springs etc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a 99 which is the same thing but in an aggressive chassis,I sent my clutchs of to have a so called clutch kit installed ,when i got it back when you gas on it would over rev and slip the belt ,so had to tighten up my secondary spring almost fully to hold the power ,now its fine
 

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Mine really woke up with these simple things. Clutched, Geared, 1.25" Rip Saw track, Holtzman ATAAC and VForce 3 Reeds. Simple clutching and dropping one tooth on your gearing will help if money is an issue. I would also recommend studs for traction. My next mods will be a refresh on the top end with some case porting and bored carbs. That will be my summer project.

Cheers
 

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It really surprises me that your having problems with a viper. I recently raced one with no issues at all. He did 95 MPH in about 1250ft and I pulled 109 MPH. Something is not right.

sprk 23t 3/4w 15 spl
spring almond
3 wt. 10-62 w/bushing
blue/orange driven spring

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thats what I'm talking about, I should'nt be having problems with a Viper. It still runs strong but it almost feels like it has alot of top end torque and power but nothing on the bottom, it doesn't seem like it launches as good as it should but I have all kinds of top end, but by that time the Viper has a good enough lead it would take longer than 300 ft. to catch him. If I gas it from a dead dig, it acts like a gurgle, very faint but I can definetely tell that its there and I pay for it in a drag race. Like I said, I don't race much but I have an 800 XCR, I should be kickin butt with little to no problems at all against something stock especially a Viper.
 

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I don't have an XCR 800 so I may be wrong here but you stated in your mods that you dropped a tooth on the bottom sprocket- this makes your gear ratio taller which is good for top-end but not for hole-shot and short run performance. It sounds like this is where you're getting beat. Hyper has his set up with one tooth down on the top sprocket- big difference.
 

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Originally posted by jasonmc98
[br]Thats what I'm talking about, I should'nt be having problems with a Viper. It still runs strong but it almost feels like it has alot of top end torque and power but nothing on the bottom, it doesn't seem like it launches as good as it should but I have all kinds of top end, but by that time the Viper has a good enough lead it would take longer than 300 ft. to catch him. If I gas it from a dead dig, it acts like a gurgle, very faint but I can definetely tell that its there and I pay for it in a drag race. Like I said, I don't race much but I have an 800 XCR, I should be kickin butt with little to no problems at all against something stock especially a Viper.
Also how is your VES? Cleaned your Valves lately?

Cheers
 

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Originally posted by jasonmc98
[br]Thats what I'm talking about, I should'nt be having problems with a Viper. It still runs strong but it almost feels like it has alot of top end torque and power but nothing on the bottom, it doesn't seem like it launches as good as it should but I have all kinds of top end, but by that time the Viper has a good enough lead it would take longer than 300 ft. to catch him. If I gas it from a dead dig, it acts like a gurgle, very faint but I can definetely tell that its there and I pay for it in a drag race. Like I said, I don't race much but I have an 800 XCR, I should be kickin butt with little to no problems at all against something stock especially a Viper.

i raced the same viper HYPER raced, and did not have a problem either. beat him to the line everytime. sound like you have a clutching problem. i would go with hypers clutching specs since his sled just flies.


cheers
 

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check ves bellows as well as cleaning them. gearing up one tooth shouldnt hurt at all. heck I ran with my stock pipes 25-38 gearing with a 144 track.
are you spinning bad? what rpms are you running?
a showroom stock xcr and viper after 300' you shouldnt even see him anymore.
 

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Agreed, you shuld be eating the viper. No uncommon to spin too much with a stock track and might loose some in the first few feet.
Last time the clutches were gone through? Put in a fresh stock secondary spring, , do your buttons at the same time. Make sure you have no binding.
You have a torque arm on it yet ? check your front mounts for play.
On the Primary, toss the square almond spring, it will be sacked. Put in a Almond round, make sure the primary is good shape. Add 2 grams on the wieghts to make is 62's. Healthy mill should pull it.
For traction, drop your front suspension mount one inch. Look in the tunnel you will see the hole. Use it!. Loosing the fromnt limters a bit while your in there.

Gruggling hmm... Thinking sticky VES..? If you come to a stop your secondary is closed all the way?
These will bark out of the hole hard, main issues is spinning too much.
Post what you find
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks alot guy's, I will check all that you have mentioned. I clean my VES every year and bellows are good also, I do have 196 studs in it but they need to be replaced (too short, worn) I have been thinking that its my clutching that is the problem. I do want to do some serious clutching mods, but I would think I should beat a stock Viper with a stock XCR no problem. I want to go through my clutches and make sure nothing is worn there before I go over and above stock. I had a buddy of mine go through my sled right after I bought it and he made some adjustments to my secondary before I ever rode it, I think I'll start there. What hole should the secondary spring be in? I think that might be alot of it. Yes, it does have a torque stop on it, 3 motor mounts later. Nobody's heard of a MBRP silencer actually hurting performance? It sounds good, I've been thinking of putting the stock can back on to see what I get. Thanks for your help guy's.
 

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what rpms are you running?
 

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If you going to do studs, think seriously of a big lug track while your at it. The stocker is a a joke unless your on the lake all the time. You might be surprised what a 1.25 will feel like.
Try the second hole in the secondary.
 

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I think your buddy ment well but you should tighten up your secondary back to hole 3 so you are around 8300.
 
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