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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 edge x 600 i am pulling my motor out this summer to replace my stearing rods and links, looking for a couple of small things i can do to while i have to motor out to give it a little more power and speed im ordering some v force delta 3 reeds and a mbrp race can, any other ideas?
 

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I don't know about power but, while you have the motor out, you can clean out the engine compartment. Get any dirt or grease out.
 

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the can will make you lose weight but won't increase your power.
 

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Skip the v-force and MBRP can, those are big money without much effect...

Pipe and clutch it.. Same cost, lots more results.
 

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Shave the heads for more compression, port it replace rings even if they are decent it will improve a lot and just clean it up get rid of dirt under motor it will help some.
 

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Everything I've heard is that those reeds will do nothing for you unless you have other mods. I'd save the money on the reeds and put it toward a pipe and can set. You will definitely notice the difference in weight, and you should notice the power too. A can won't give you power. Sometimes you lose power with a can.
 

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skip all the stuff and rebuild the clutch if there are a lot of miles on it. It will pull harder, be slightly faster, back shift better etc. Get the power to the ground and see if you like it. If you are still looking for more, then look into a pipe etc.
 

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Ugly_old_Poo_kid said:
Skip the v-force and MBRP can, those are big money without much effect...

Pipe and clutch it.. Same cost, lots more results.

^^ i agree with this. The Can will just be obnoxious and can even get annoying at times. i believe if you get clutch work done, and pipe it then you will get better results. if you want a "loud can" then just gut your stock can, but really piping and clutching are the most effective.
 

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as said clutch kit, and go through all the bearings and idler wheels . you can add all the power you want but if its not reaching the ground it does no good. a lot of people overlook this. they want more power, but if they would harness the power they have, it would seem like a new motor.
 

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First, clean all your motor compartment, ad polish it :D

I had a 2001 EDGE-X 600 that was extremely well dialed in for a "stocker". Here's some tips that may be useful.

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.

2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane, easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!

3) 96 or More studs, I ran (144) 1.3125" Woody's Gold Mege Bite square tip Studs with the 1.25" square plastic backers, traction is where it's at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you're coupled to the ground.


almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory. This improves acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft upon engagement thereby further extending crank shaft life.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00) I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's

3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing, XCR1250 (Here on H.C.S.) and others offer this service.


SECONDARY

1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of every season (approx $30.00)

2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each


BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores under the "HELP' brand) to get it perfect.

2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the # 3211080 (standard edge belt) although your dealer may have to order it for you.



ENGINE LIMITER

Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $83.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS



EXHAUST VALVES

1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit. Avoid using the wire wheel to clean the aluminum valves as they have a hardened coating on them and the wire wheel will end up damaging that.

2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.



CHECK AND RESET YOUR T.P.S. (Easier to do than you realize)

1) Look at the pinned topics at the top of the PRO-X section, there's a thread tells you how to build your own tester for less than $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, double check the voltage on your tester, DON'T OVERLOOK THIS, you want 5.000 volts EXACTLY!

2) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

3) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if neccesary.



CHAIN CASE

1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.

3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they're PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1" I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030", .060" These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel) There's a picture of the oil pump posted in the IQ section, thread pinned at the top TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 Free Mods and Best Bang for the Buck

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.


SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis


DEBATEABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign.

3) Roller Secondary. The "old style" button secondary is faster on top end.

4) Boost bottles

5) 8" rear wheels

6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels


Here are some clutching recommendations for all around TRAIL use. The weights needed will depend on your engines state of tune, your weight, track weight, riding conditions. The helix/secondary spring choice will depend on parts availability. These are my preferences, and the combos work. Other combos are possible, and I do not doubt other peoples testing results.

On all sleds with 23/39 gearing stock, 23/40 gives less chain dogleg, and slightly better acceleration, with no loss of speed. The chain must be stretched, and the tensioner may need to be ground for the chain to fit properly. Use lightweight gear #2900141 if possible. Reduces rotating mass.

The TEAM secondary upgrade is for riders primarily concerned with lightening quick backshift in all snow conditions, and who may upgrade to PERC reverse. The button clutch can be tuned for a very quick backshift, but it is not an easy task for the majority of riders. The TEAM is a bolt on and forget it change.

With all combos rpm should be at 8-8100 rpm. (actual rpm, tach must be calibrated to read a proper 8000 rpm).

Low budget

Button Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Stock secondary set-up.

TEAM Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Stock secondary set-up. At a minimum 1 #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup. 2 may be used, one in the cup and one under. Or 3, one in the cup, one under, and one in the spider (opposite end of spring).

Medium Budget

Button Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Silver/blue, hot seat orange, or erlandson orange (light, not HD) secondary spring. #2 or 3 hole. Helix change to HSP34X (best), HSP34S, Dalton PR52/42-34. Other helixes may work, but these are my preferred ones.

TEAM Secondary- almond/blue prmary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. For quick backshift and snappy response, almond/blue and 10-60's. Black secondary spring with 64/42-.46, or 64/42-.36 helix. For lower cruising rpm, and slightly higher top speed, a red/dk. blue secondary spring (same as stock). Some sleds will pull a 64/44-.46 or 66-44-42, .46/.25/.25 but not in deep snow conditions (usually). At a minimum 1 #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup. 2 may be used, one in the cup and one under. Or 3, one in the cup, one under, and one in the spider (opposite end of spring).


High Budget

Primary clutch set-up almond/blue or slp 140/310, 10-60 or 10-62 weights. TEAM TSS-04 Lightweight secondary clutch. (Saves 1 lb. rotating mass, plus the lighter helix. If comparing TSS-98 with twin trax helix (not factory polaris) and steel spring, to TSS-04 with twin trax helix and titanium spring, the TSS-04 is 1lb. 8 oz. lighter). 64/42-.46 or 64/42-.36 helix with black or red/dk. blue spring. 64/44-.46 or 66-44-42, .46/.25/.25 may work also in certain conditions. One #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup.

(courtesy of HCS member Kraven & Pockets)
 

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wow great info. someone put alot of time and thought into that ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
jesse500 said:
First, clean all your motor compartment, ad polish it :D

I had a 2001 EDGE-X 600 that was extremely well dialed in for a "stocker". Here's some tips that may be useful.

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.

2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane, easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!

3) 96 or More studs, I ran (144) 1.3125" Woody's Gold Mege Bite square tip Studs with the 1.25" square plastic backers, traction is where it's at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you're coupled to the ground.


almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory. This improves acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft upon engagement thereby further extending crank shaft life.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00) I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's

3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing, XCR1250 (Here on H.C.S.) and others offer this service.


SECONDARY

1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of every season (approx $30.00)

2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each


BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores under the "HELP' brand) to get it perfect.

2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the # 3211080 (standard edge belt) although your dealer may have to order it for you.



ENGINE LIMITER

Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $83.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS



EXHAUST VALVES

1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit. Avoid using the wire wheel to clean the aluminum valves as they have a hardened coating on them and the wire wheel will end up damaging that.

2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.



CHECK AND RESET YOUR T.P.S. (Easier to do than you realize)

1) Look at the pinned topics at the top of the PRO-X section, there's a thread tells you how to build your own tester for less than $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, double check the voltage on your tester, DON'T OVERLOOK THIS, you want 5.000 volts EXACTLY!

2) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

3) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if neccesary.



CHAIN CASE

1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.

3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they're PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1" I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030", .060" These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel) There's a picture of the oil pump posted in the IQ section, thread pinned at the top TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 Free Mods and Best Bang for the Buck

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.


SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis


DEBATEABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign.

3) Roller Secondary. The "old style" button secondary is faster on top end.

4) Boost bottles

5) 8" rear wheels

6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels


Here are some clutching recommendations for all around TRAIL use. The weights needed will depend on your engines state of tune, your weight, track weight, riding conditions. The helix/secondary spring choice will depend on parts availability. These are my preferences, and the combos work. Other combos are possible, and I do not doubt other peoples testing results.

On all sleds with 23/39 gearing stock, 23/40 gives less chain dogleg, and slightly better acceleration, with no loss of speed. The chain must be stretched, and the tensioner may need to be ground for the chain to fit properly. Use lightweight gear #2900141 if possible. Reduces rotating mass.

The TEAM secondary upgrade is for riders primarily concerned with lightening quick backshift in all snow conditions, and who may upgrade to PERC reverse. The button clutch can be tuned for a very quick backshift, but it is not an easy task for the majority of riders. The TEAM is a bolt on and forget it change.

With all combos rpm should be at 8-8100 rpm. (actual rpm, tach must be calibrated to read a proper 8000 rpm).

Low budget

Button Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Stock secondary set-up.

TEAM Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Stock secondary set-up. At a minimum 1 #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup. 2 may be used, one in the cup and one under. Or 3, one in the cup, one under, and one in the spider (opposite end of spring).

Medium Budget

Button Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Silver/blue, hot seat orange, or erlandson orange (light, not HD) secondary spring. #2 or 3 hole. Helix change to HSP34X (best), HSP34S, Dalton PR52/42-34. Other helixes may work, but these are my preferred ones.

TEAM Secondary- almond/blue prmary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. For quick backshift and snappy response, almond/blue and 10-60's. Black secondary spring with 64/42-.46, or 64/42-.36 helix. For lower cruising rpm, and slightly higher top speed, a red/dk. blue secondary spring (same as stock). Some sleds will pull a 64/44-.46 or 66-44-42, .46/.25/.25 but not in deep snow conditions (usually). At a minimum 1 #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup. 2 may be used, one in the cup and one under. Or 3, one in the cup, one under, and one in the spider (opposite end of spring).


High Budget

Primary clutch set-up almond/blue or slp 140/310, 10-60 or 10-62 weights. TEAM TSS-04 Lightweight secondary clutch. (Saves 1 lb. rotating mass, plus the lighter helix. If comparing TSS-98 with twin trax helix (not factory polaris) and steel spring, to TSS-04 with twin trax helix and titanium spring, the TSS-04 is 1lb. 8 oz. lighter). 64/42-.46 or 64/42-.36 helix with black or red/dk. blue spring. 64/44-.46 or 66-44-42, .46/.25/.25 may work also in certain conditions. One #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup.

(courtesy of HCS member Kraven & Pockets)

wow thanks you very much that is a lot of information that will help out big time thank you very much for your time it is greatly appriciated


sTOrMy96 said:
wow great info. someone put alot of time and thought into that ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
your tellin me haha it will help out big time
 
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