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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi- my first time on this site and you guys are by far the most help i've read on the web for snowmobiles. my question is this, my buddies dad has a 1998 (built in 1997) polaris 600 xlt extra 10. he was told the motor was shot and one local shop wanted $2800 for the rebuild. seemed a bit steep to me. anyway i tore down the motor for him (my 1st time on a snowmoblie)and found the top end to be just fine, but a few of the bearings were noisy with one being shot completely. cranks seems to be fine, but dont have to bearings off yet, do i just have a machine shop press them off, or is it something that can be done at home? i cant find any books or knowledgable person for help so anything would be helpful!! thanks for your time
 

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buy a service manual for it, its worth its weight in gold. It should help you out with the rebuild, let me know how it goes, you at all mechanically inclined?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah that was my plan, to find a service manual. but it's been a problem finding one. and there shouldnt be any problems with my mechanics skills, definetly not the best, but have always worked on my own stuff and never had any problems. but like i said, never cracked the case on a snowmoble before and was just wondering what to expect and if anyones done this motor before what they thought.
 

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Welcome sledless ... you are right, these guys are aces!

Firstly, I think $2800 is waaay too much to pay. Check out these sites for parts and prices. Depending on the miles that have been put on your machine, you may want to replace your pistons and rings while you have it torn down ... someone else on here will be able to provide some advice based directly on their Polaris experience.

http://www.ronnies.com/
http://www.partsland.com./
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/index.html
http://www.bruckerspolaris.com/
http://www.denniskirk.com/
http://www.polarisindustries.com/

The last site (http://www.polarisindustries.com/) has manuals online, but only back as far as 2000. However, it does have a tech section that states that you can get your local dealer to order you a manual (that's what I did for my ski-doo).

If you are looking for those little extra tips and tricks that can save you a lot of time, effort, and money in the end, then you are at the right place. These guys on here are exceptionally knowledgable and I think half of them can take apart a machine in their sleep (and some of them actually may have!).

I do not know about your crank bearings, but removing mine (88 Tundra) requires a puller so I imagine yours would as well. Get that shop manual from your dealer (I received mine 3 days after ordering) and it will have the procedures and specs that you need.

Hope this helps.
 

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my advice to you is to take your crank to a mahine shop that does cranks because the crank has to be pressed apart to get at the center bearings anyhow. i suspect your original problem may have been the crank turning out of phase on you so the machine shop can verify this as well good luck[;)]
 

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You should be able to get a complete short block for around $1300. If you rebuild, the crank should be able to be rebuilt for around $350. I'd have it welded at the same time. A wiseco piston kit should cost you $350 as well, and that will have new pistons, rings, needle bearings, and all gaskets for the rebuild. Get some yamabond to seal the lower case halves. A clymer manual is a great asset. Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks everyone for you information, we appreciate it!! a few more questions though. can someone explain to me what to look for when and why a crank would turn out of phase? also RXLRIDER, what is it that gets welded on the crank? i can weld and have access to a machine shop if it has to be turned. as far as the top end, pistons, rings and cylinders all looked fine. might throw a quick cross hatch and new rings in but not sure yet. anyway thanks again for the help.
 

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the crank is a two piece crank, the center bearing is pressed together, going out of phase can be caused by many different things, it's the cranks nature not to stay put if something happens up top, perhaps a backfire, a lean condition on one cylinder, timing off, when it's rebuilt, you can weld it together to keep it from spinning again but, BUT.....you will have to throw it away if anything ever happens to it again! just bare this in mind.
good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well we found out our problem. a good friend checked it out for us and it looks like we can pull the PTO bearings and just replace them all the other bearings are still in good shape. now we are aware that replacing them all would be the right way to fix it, but this is just an extra sled for friends and family to ride. we have also decided to go ahead and through in a cross hatch and replace the rings while its down. we have access to a machine shop so pressing the bearings should be no problem. everything is already ordered and on its way. just wanted to thank everyone again for their thoughts and info!!
 

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one thing to keep in mind is each rod bearing has to be exactly 120 degrees apart and the whole crank has to be perfectly concentric if one of those pins has slipped by even 10 degrees you will have a very poor running engine thats if you can get it started. there is a lot of pins between your pto end and your mag end which is where your timing all happens! [8D]
 
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