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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

As a new member of this forum I don´t know how many answers to expect during low season but I try anyway.

I´m thinking of buying a set of SLP triplepipes to my -95 XLT SKS. There are though a few things I´m uncertain of.

1. How loud are the triplepipes versus the stock pipe? Since I´m touring a lot with my girlfriend I don´t want a too loud sled. Experiences anyone???

2. I´m still uncertain of how the engine can handle the extra power these pipes render. Will it break more easily or??? My drivingstyle is 60% trail, 30% off trail and 10% lake.

I have also read that you guys recommend a clutch kit, but I cannot afford it. Is there anything else I can do to increase the efficency with the triplepipes mounted? I will rejet it, but the clutch kits are too expensive. Will it help changing the helix or what???

All the best to you out there!

// Robster

If you think you are in controll, you simply are not going fast enough!
 

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Wow, Sweden hu, that's cool. Welcome.

Anyways, I've been looking into getting a set of triple pipes for my 97 XLT SP. From what I understand about the new SLP pipes is that they're not obnoxiously loud. It will definately be louder than stock, and people will know you have a set of pipes on, but not so much that its annoying.

As for how your engine will handle the additional 20 or so hp, it depends on what condition your engine is in right now. You'd have to ask yourself does it run strong, does it have good compression? How many miles are on it? My sled has about 5800 on it, and if I do put the pipes on I'm going to rebuild my motor just for security reasons. I think with that pipe, you engine is suppose to spool up to around 9000 rpm. Which is up from 8100 rpm or so.

I know you stated that you can't afford a clutch kit right now, but with that set up I would HIGHLY recomend one. I think that pipe will give you more top end power, and not so much out of the hole. Triples by themselves are known for that. With the clutch kit on, you'd get the power out of the hole, and in the mid range from that, and the power on top end would come from the pipes.

Another option you might want to consider is instead of getting the triple pipes, get a new can (muffler, silencer). This would decrease your weight, give your sled a cool sound, and give you an additional 2-5 hp. Not to mention its a lot cheaper. Then you could easily afford the clutch kit.

In either situation, I assume you either already have a studded track or will be studding it! Hope this helps, and welcome to the forum.



1997 XLT SP 600
"Engage the Mechanism"
 

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Hello robster Im not positive about the brand new pipes but any of the older pipes ive ever dealt with require clutch changes as part of the installation of your pipes. It is required to make the rpm at wide open or shift out rpm fall in the new peak horsepower range. and to help eliminate a low end bog. Usually primary spring and a weight change is required. installation of pipes without jetting and clutching can be disasterous. Rest assured though once you get them set up you will love the new and very different feeling power. Slp is supposed to be one of the quieter pipes on the market. I personally prefer PSI for sheer power. Good luck. and have fun.
 

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Hey, welcome to the forum.

I'm no expert on pipes, but usually when you change pipes, you will need to re-clutch it, because you get 20 to 40 more HP, therefore making your clutching set for for whatever the original HP is. You will just end up losing most of your new power in the clutches.

You don't necessarily need a clutch kit, you can buy weights, springs and helixes from any Polaris dealer, but which exact ones, I'm not sure of.

As for the sound, the triple pipes will make it louder, but not unbearable, a snowmobiler will say "hey that guy has pipes" and the GP (General Public) will say "that sled is a bit louder than that other sled". Not a big deal at all.

Hope this helped.



http://www.bolliger-mabillard.com

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi there guys!

Thx for the answers.

First I still don't think I can afford the clutch-kit, because it costs about $270 here in Sweden. But I hope I can have someone help me with changing the Helix at least (or whatever is best and still cheap).

About the sound I have decided that I can take whatever sound there is. Therefore I will buy the pipes.

Last I have not studded the track and no I won't either. Because up here in Sweden the trails are pretty different from the States. Here the trails consist of SOFT packed snow so the studs won't help at all. Many people here ride summits and mountin maxes just to ensure that they have grip (A bit overkill I'd say).

I'm buying the triple pipes second hand so I only pay $250 for them. A new set here in Sweden costs $1100 so....

The only thing I am affraid of within the enginge if I put on the pipes is the crankshaft bearings. I have read that they are sensitive on the XLT engines and REALLY expensive to change/buy.

//Rob

If you think you are in controll, you simply are not going fast enough!
 

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Changing a helix is fairly simple, although without adjusting the full clutching, you won't benefit completely from putting on the pipes.

You don't necessarily have to buy a clutch kit, find out what other people with those pipes use, and buy the weights, springs and helix straight from Polaris. That is always an option.



http://www.bolliger-mabillard.com

I love B&M Coasters!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by Polaris-Man:
Changing a helix is fairly simple, although without adjusting the full clutching, you won't benefit completely from putting on the pipes.

You don't necessarily have to buy a clutch kit, find out what other people with those pipes use, and buy the weights, springs and helix straight from Polaris. That is always an option.



http://www.bolliger-mabillard.com

I love B&M Coasters!
[/quote]




THX. Can't cost much to do as you say and check....! Anyways, if I can't afford a clutch-kit right away... I'll just have to wait a month or two to get the parts and then... BINGO!

Anyone that has experience with the SLP triple pipes on the XLT??

Does anyone know if I have to worry about the crankshaft bearings or not? I have heard that they "wear out" after 6-8 years. I checked the cost to buy new ones and the total including work was estimated to above $500 and that is EXPENSIVE for me.

//Rob



If you think you are in controll, you simply are not going fast enough!
 

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About the bearings, Depending on who you talk to they will wear out anywhere from 6000 to 10000 miles, that goes for pretty much any snowmobile. The most miles that I have personally heard of on a snowmobile was 12000 on a 1992 XCR 440. That is a Fuji 436cc liquid cooled twin. When they replaced the pistons and crank bearings, everything was really bad. Another engine that lasted until 10000 miles was a 1995 Indy 440 which has the same engine as that 1992 XCR. I do know of a 1997 Indy 500 (fuji 488cc liquid twin) with 8500 miles on it, which will be torn down this fall to have new parts put in.

Although all my examples are 2 cylinder engines, I believe this goes for most 2 stroke snowmobile engines. I wouldn't worry too much about the extra HP hurting anything.

Hope that helps somewhat...



http://www.bolliger-mabillard.com

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I have a 1996 Ultra 680 with over 10000 miles 9500 of them have been with psi pipes and this machine was not babied. Radar runs, ice drags, grass drags and fast as you can trail riding is my style. It still runs wonderfully and dosnt seem to lose a beat. I call it possesed. Im not sure but dont the 680s and the 600s have the same bottom end???
 

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the 95 xlts loved the slp pipes but the crank shaft can come out of time on some of them engines with some miles. at 8000 miles i rebuilt my engine just because and lucky i did the seals were gone and the crank cheeks were coming lose.

if you dont reclutch the pipes are a wast of money.
if you have to have the pipes then put them on jet accordingly and start with heavier wieghts. and maybe a different secondary spring then helix.

i loved my slp piped xlt but i used the thundershift kit a little gear down and babby that little sled ran.

if you put the pipes on and dont reclutch you will go slower than stock and blow your engine from over rev. if anything just loosen your secondary spring to hold your rpm down until you can get clutching going.

nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by madcow:
the 95 xlts loved the slp pipes but the crank shaft can come out of time on some of them engines with some miles. at 8000 miles i rebuilt my engine just because and lucky i did the seals were gone and the crank cheeks were coming lose.

if you dont reclutch the pipes are a wast of money.
if you have to have the pipes then put them on jet accordingly and start with heavier wieghts. and maybe a different secondary spring then helix.

i loved my slp piped xlt but i used the thundershift kit a little gear down and babby that little sled ran.

if you put the pipes on and dont reclutch you will go slower than stock and blow your engine from over rev. if anything just loosen your secondary spring to hold your rpm down until you can get clutching going.

nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
[/quote]


I'd listen to this fellow, he hit the nail right on the head with that post.




http://www.bolliger-mabillard.com

I love B&M Coasters!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by Polaris-Man:
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by madcow:
the 95 xlts loved the slp pipes but the crank shaft can come out of time on some of them engines with some miles. at 8000 miles i rebuilt my engine just because and lucky i did the seals were gone and the crank cheeks were coming lose.

if you dont reclutch the pipes are a wast of money.
if you have to have the pipes then put them on jet accordingly and start with heavier wieghts. and maybe a different secondary spring then helix.

i loved my slp piped xlt but i used the thundershift kit a little gear down and babby that little sled ran.

if you put the pipes on and dont reclutch you will go slower than stock and blow your engine from over rev. if anything just loosen your secondary spring to hold your rpm down until you can get clutching going.

nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
[/quote]


I'd listen to this fellow, he hit the nail right on the head with that post.




http://www.bolliger-mabillard.com

I love B&M Coasters!
[/quote]




Ok, Thx guys! Later today I will check the cost for reclutching it. But the crank shaft bearings I just hope lasts until next summer. I can absolutely not afford to change them too. So hold your thumbs guys!

My decicion now is that if I can't afford the reclutching too, I won't buy the pipes either.

//Robster





If you think you are in controll, you simply are not going fast enough!
 

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i wouldnt lose to much sleed over the crank she will start to show some signs most the time by running funny before it goes. and the 8000 miles were with my 245 lbs slamming that thing down the ditchs with my mrp friend and another 440 racing sled. and the other miles were at wot for long hard pulls breaking trails on the lakes.

nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
 

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my personal experience with these motors, buy a set of 38 mikuni carbs, drill the air bypass hole out, drill the baring oil holes out, 30 pilot jets, a qa2 helix 2nd hole, yellow spring, white primary spring or a ta3 helix 3rd hole, yellow spring, white primary spring, 49 5 weights,you lose top speed with this helix. check the pto barings. when you put it back together fill the barings full of grease and use the gray mr. gaskit sealer. this is a high maintaince motor. no pipes. a have 2 xcr's. one was piped and had to totally rebuild twice with less than 2000 miles on it. the other one has never been piped and is bone stock and all i have had to do was a complete gaskit kit and new weisco pistons. on the one i rebuilt i put 600 miles on this year and never fouled a plug. with a ta3 helix set up you will not be beat put of the hole within 600 feet. after that wave goodbye. email if you need to know more. have fun, been there, done that. going to the twins next year. [email protected]
 
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