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Discussion Starter #1
I ride a 2002 600 EdgeX, I won't differentiate it from an XC SP because if you don't already know, than I wouldn't feel right taking any technical tips from you!
Anyway, I live on a lake in central Michigan, most of the riding I do is on the lake, some on trails. The only mods I've done thus far is studding it, 144 Woody's 1.175 60degree Goldiggers (speaking of which, the world headquarters of Woody's is 10 min from my house, and the owner of Woody's owns an island on my lake 1/4mi from me and got me a great deal on the studs!) I've also put Woody's Polaris Carbide runners on (forget the exact name but they claim to be for 'aggressive trail and lake drivers'). I've also put on an SLP boost bottle. The rest of my mods are simply cosmetic.
So here's my deal: I'm 18 and a freshman in college, I *don't have much money*(yet somehow I managed to buy this sled myself). I've done some drag racing on the lake (casual, no times or speeds) and I've done pretty decent and can hold my own. Just wondering what kind of mods you guys suggest? I don't really care how hard the mods are to do, as long as they aren't *too* costly. Any suggestions on helixes, gears, etc? I'd like to get more serious into racing next year, so that I can have some official times (and maybe victories) under my belt. Any advice you can give would be great. Thanks!
-SEF
 

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hey im 19 and a freshman in ohio i have a 2001 edgex 600 and i am looking for the same thing i have some stuff but youll have to test it your self and let me know how it works. how long are the races you are running. ill post stuff tomorrow and let me know what you find. ill help you as much as i can i would rather do it through email so maybe give me you email address. mine is [email protected]
 

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Well if you ever get into 660' drag racing let me know, I have the same sled as you...minus the X package, but know some decent tricks.
 

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Alaskangold i am looking for radar run setups but in the summer i do grass drags that are 500 foot i could use some decent tricks. cause i got to stay ahead of my buddy with the same sled. thanks for letting me know you have some tricks.
 

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gear for the distance you are running, them twins for 1000' i would start with only a tooth or two higer on top. for grass some where close to the 1.8-2.0 range is good starting point. depending on your wieghts of your body, on a stock sled you could pull either a little more mass or the same wieght with more aggressive profile. for grass run the chisel type studs for speed running run the picks with maybe a few chisels mixed in. I am only running 144. 1.06 picks on the .45 lug speed track and have never spun once yet. for both grass and speed make sure that the sled stays mostly level no big wheelies, suck up the rear suspension, the closer the drive axle is to the ground the faster you will go. once you run some races you will learn little tricks. i run only 2 outside wheels and one in the center on the rear axle. with all four there was to much friction rubbing the lugs. get race guages or learn to read piston wash. the closer you are jetted the more power you make. watch your compresion. on grass you can pump it up, for speed running high compression will hurt you on the big end. I see it all the time, grass draggers come to the speed runs, and are some times slower than a trail stock sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For the record, about tje clutching, gearing setups, etc...I plan on running in the 800' range.
I was also looking at pipes too, the lowest priced pipe I've seen (that still boasts *some* improved performance) is a MBRP silencer, but its only +2 hp and -10lbs, at around $189. Of course the weight loss is decent, but I would also like something with more of a hp increase, without going all out on a $500+ set of pipes. If not for the lower priced, what would be the best pipe to look at in the $500 range? And also, being new at all this, I wouldn't be able to enter any stock races with a non-stock pipe, right? So would I have to enter stock/mod race or what? I'm sorry if that's a stupid question to all you seasoned rider/racers but I'm new at all this, and remember, you were once in my spot, so gimme a break :)
Thanks

-SEF
 

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for 800 feet stock gearing will work fine. dont pipe it unless you plan on running improved stock and then you make your own pipes or spend serious cash. I would have the jugs blue printed, meaning the ports set to stock tolerances, this makes a huge difference. them jugs would be great for trail riding also, leave the heads stock just clean them good. for jetting learn to do carbon reading or piston wash. you want to keep jetting down until the piston is mostly covered in carbon except around the ports you will see some clean spots. mix pump gas with some 98 octane vp fuel at half and half. that way you have some assurance of quality but can stretch out the exspensive stuff. plus with that fuel if you go to lean you will burn your spark plug off instead of sticking a piston. first you will notice a slow down. if this is for speed running i would start with a gold spring in the primary and some 60 gram aggressive wieghts. stay with that primary set up, then go to some salvage yards and get some used 32 and 34and 36 and maybe a 46-34, get the blue red and silver secondary springs new from polaris, put in the smallest helix and your stock silver blue check your rpms, than just come down the sprin chart until you get your desired rpm, run every possible combination against the radar and write everything down.

the guy that is teaching me this stuff enginered the first sled to go over 140 mph, he one 3 world records in one day, with a 600 tripple he set the 600, 700. 800 world records, they have been broke buy now but that was back in the late 70 and early 80. he had a indy 500 that did almost 100 mph in the 1000' and a 440 mod grass dragger that did 98 mph, back in the late 70's he could set up your cylinders and get you all the little stuff you might need, jets, speed track, correct number and style of picks, so on.
 

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i was wounderin for grass drags do you keep the sliders on your sled cause you took most of your wheels off i was just woundering for this summer i was planning on using the blue Epi spring with 10-60g weights should i go to a more agressive 60g weight with some more primary spring and im still not sure what to run in the secondary clutch as of spring and helix and spring pressure. i was running i think it was a 50-34 or 50-36 but i was only running like 6.5 on the clock. another guy i know with a 2002 xcsp 600 was running 5.9 the same day but he wont give anything away because i will see him at the races. any help would help this guy tell me im good on the primary clutch but im off on the secondary any clues. these are 500' races im talking about know. i keep jumping from radar runs to grass drags on you sorry.
 

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madcow you were say that in the grass we could run the same weights but more agressive or go up in weight depending on you body weight well what would you say if i weight 190lbs would i want to just go to a more agressive 58g weight or go up to the agressive 60 or the regular 60g weights
 

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for grass i would go aggressive 60, maybe even try some regular 62. the more wieght the faster it will shift, make sure that your shift rpm is in the range for you engine. also for grass you could bring the engagement up to 4500-5500. depends where you find it best. for speed running you can have a little bog for a second, for grass you have no time for a bog, you want a bang and your done, dont let anyone do a port job, on a blue print only the top of the ports are cut, that way if they look down the spark plug whole they wont see any work done, if someone cuts the bottom of the ports also they will see that and you will be done.
 

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was wounderin for grass drags do you keep the sliders on your sled cause you took most of your wheels off i was just woundering for this summer i was planning on using the blue Epi spring with 10-60g weights should i go to a more agressive 60g weight with some more primary spring and im still not sure what to run in the secondary clutch as of spring and helix and spring pressure. i was running i think it was a 50-34 or 50-36 but i was only running like 6.5 on the clock. another guy i know with a 2002 xcsp 600 was running 5.9 the same day but he wont give anything away because i will see him at the races. any help would help this guy tell me im good on the primary clutch but im off on the secondary any clues. these are 500' races im talking about know. i keep jumping from radar runs to grass drags on you sorry. wasnt sure if you seen this post
 

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I have to stop and recatch myself for asecond. I am talking to 12 people on clutching and starting to get myself mixed up. I was right in saying that for grass go with more helix and more spring. you will be quicker et but slower mph than speed running. I have seen guys with a stock primary spring rates with only a little higher engagment, 10-62 primary wieghts, i think a stock helix with an orange secondary spring, not sure of the brand but it was stiffer than the silver blue that you have now. for 500' I would look at get close to a 2.0 gear ratio. I dont know if you can take your hyfax off, better check with the rules of the track on that one. you can add a couple more wheels to each side. if you want an easy 5-8 hp and stay stock get your jugs blue printed, remember cut only the top of the ports. if you have a stretch of grass have a buddy say go with a stop watch, run different setups against the clock. for grass you can also bump up the compression. check to see whos rules they follow, like isr or something else. put a wide mark on your primary clutch and check to see how far you are shifting out. see if you can run hold up straps on your front suspension. then pull your rear suspension down and turn the blocks on high, so it is low and stiff. play with the limiter straps on the front arm of the rear suspension to get the right amount of lift. some lift for a long ways is better than a lot of lift right away.
 

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ok thanks sorry im throwing so many questions at you so fast. um so go with a high stright helix like 52,54,56 and more spring pressure correct? i also have a buddy that has a timing system in his back yard that has 60' time 500' time what if im getting a good 60' time but the clutch isnt shifting all the way out and the finishing time was slow. my question is what would cause the belt not to shift all the way out. and i was woundering for artic cat you can get notched weights to hold the engagment can you get these for polaris?
 

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for the exact helix will come with trial, it doesnt have to be a straight for grass, for me the small straight worked better for speed running, yes you can get notched wieghts for polaris, to not shift all the way out compare that to the mph you ran. if your gearing is for 95mph and you only ran 75mph than a simple gear down could help you shift out more. if you are geared for 85 and you hit 78 and your time was slow and you didnt shift out, i would check your rpm and see if you are revveing high or low, than see what would happen with more wieght or more helix, if you can bring the rpm down a little, if your rpm are right on the money, than you could go up a little in helix with a tiny bit more spring to keep the rpms the same or maybe a tiny bit more wieght. this is where the heavy hitter kits i sell come into play, you could run your stock secondary for starters, than you can run the wieght like the kit recomends than just keep adding a tiny bit or move the wieght to the tip a tiny bit at a time and see what happens to the rpms and your time. on the track you will find 20 600 twins and you will find 20 different setups. maybe some 48-36 or 50-34or 50-36 helixs might work good. my 52-36is the quickest, but i have to run the silver blue spring and watch what primary spring i run. but it is the slowest mph
 

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ok thanks for all the help madcow. if you get any polaris 600ves motors up at the lake when your testing if you could keep some notes and let me see what there finding is good or close what would be great. i understand it will be hard to be working on all them sled and keeping notes so if you dont get anything thats ok thanks again.
 
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