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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ran my sled on Saturday at a radar run. It was a 800ft run. My sled is pure stock--the way it came from the factory except for 6000 miles. I was clocked at 68MPH. Is this the speed to expect or is there something wrong with my sled?

Chris
 

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Yes, there is something wrong with your sled. Its stock!! The clutching is way out to lunch from the factory and the jetting and carb needs some tuning to run a little leaner. On my 97 I have a EPI QA-2, quad angle, helix for trail riding with a EPI yellow spring in the secondary and a EPI silver in the primary. Kicks in at 5000-5200 rpms. Stock weights. It actually works pretty dam good for dragin if you put the spring in the second hole, third hole for the trails. For drag racing I use a Polaris R-11 helix, 45-36 angle, with a Polaris silver/blue secondary spring. Good for straight line runs only. I also have v-force reeds for quicker throttle response and a set of Hot Seat heads just for the hell of it. I found the heads new in a box for $100.00, so I put them on. Geared it down just a little bit to get the big tank out of the hole better. 144 chisel tooth studs. Went down on the main jets just 1 size, you can go 2 sizes down and still be safe, but I run the lakes alot so I want that extra protection. Drop the needle down one position, put the clip in the middle groove, stock is second from the bottom. This make the response a little crisper. My old tank will run right next to any new 600 twin out there. The sled just beats the heck out of me on the trails. Heavy, heavy, heavy. Good luck and perk that thing up!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a red primary and a yellow secondary that I took out recently. If I put these back in before I run again will it do any good?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It was ice chunks from a snowmaker machine. A '02 XC 600 went between 74 and 79 mph. and I am not studded.
 

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XCR Chris. The springs you took out were not Polaris springs, those sound like EPI springs. The red primary is 145-300 lbs. and will engage about the same as stock but upshift faster, load the engine faster. The yellow secondary is a EPI spring also. Check the helix to see if it is stock. The factory helix will say R-1 when looking into the back, or outer side, down in one of the cavities. The stock helix will be aluminum with a steel center. If its all aluminum, its aftermarket, or it may have some other marking on it somewhere. You said you took the springs out, what did you put back in? Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Maydaze-

I put an almond primary in myself and I had a dealer put the secondary in so I son't know what spring was put in. Also- I had problems with belt failure when riding the trail with the Red/Yellow combination. If I put them back in will I get a better holeshot? Check this out and tell me what you think of the setup recommendation.


Main jet: 340P-360C-360M
Pilot jet: #45 with the air bypass drilled out on ’96 models*
Slide: 2.5 or 3.0
Timing: Full retard or run the 1997/1998 cdi module
Airbox: can be gutted in warmer weather
Drive clutch: Polaris almond/gold or Goodwin’s black spring [keep engagement at least 4800 or more] 10-58 weights lightened to ~57g and heeled. This works well for riders around 180 lbs and should be changed accordingly to get rpm to 8300.
Driven clutch: Polaris silver secondary with a R-3 helix in the #2 hole.
Rear suspension: Move RRSS block to back hole [’96 models will need to be drilled out] and adjust limiters to at least ½” thread showing. 1996 models came with the lightest torsion springs and most people will need to upgrade to heavier springs.
Exhaust: Dynoport silencer
Gearing: -1 on top gear
Intake: Carbon Tech reeds with Fett Brothers reed spacers.

Misc: Hot Seat billet heads, HTG pipes, and big bore piston kits also work extremely well.
 

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Yeah something is wrong.. Pulling the rpm's? Should be a least as fast as the 6000xc in a straight line over 500ft.
 

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My buddy has a 97' XCR 600 with 30 miles on it and got it going over 100 mph.
 

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for 800 feet you could probably drop a lot in gearing. 144 pick or chisels would help, drop jetting like 4-5 sizes just to start with. go up to 60 or 62 gram wieghts and then start dropping in rear spring tension or helix angle to gain speed on the big end.mark your primary clutch all the way around were the belt rubs then when you go threw the trap put on the brake and make the sled back shift before you let off the throttle. then check you marker to see how high the belt came up the clutch, the more wieght and less helix or spring the faster you will go. you want so little spring effort that it is like the primary clutch is trying to catch the belt, thats how fast it should upshift. a pro sled for 1000' should be at 105-107. for 800 feet that same sled should still be just above 100. for the bone stock trail sled with clutch work low 90's is not bad.
 
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