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rails repair 101,......

6684 Views 19 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Polaris600RR
/forum/../images/users/snowmobile dave/sled fix 7.jpg
first of all im sorry, OVER half of my pics got ATE-UP by the computer, the "slots where the rear axel goes were WAY hogged out.
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/forum/../images/users/snowmobile dave/sled fix1.jpg
i had the local welging shop heleark(tig-weld) 1/8 in. plates on both sides,upper&lower (cost 30.00)
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/forum/../images/users/snowmobile dave/sled fix.jpg (ps- thats $30.00 for both sides, all 8 plates & welding. the tensioner blocks were loose, HERES where i lost pics, i had pics of the gringing & removal, so in words- grind the insind heads of the rivits off #2 use a punch and hammer the rest of rivit out, #3 replace with nuts and bolts, use a "ny-lock" nut, #4 rotozip off exses bolt
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/forum/../images/users/snowmobile dave/sled fix 5.jpg
several of the bolt holes are "elongated" or "hogged out" HERES where i lost more pics, im sorry, i really wanted to give yall a good exp. #1 drill out the holes #2 get metal bushings #3 put bolt through bushings and hammer the bushings in #4 remove bolt and cut excess bushing off (flush on both sides of hole)
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/forum/../images/users/snowmobile dave/sled fix 12.jpg
this is how it should look finished, when ya drill the holes out ya want them to be just BEARLY smaller than the bushing, this will give ya a "semi-press fit", i did 3 out of 6 holes on this project,
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there is ONE-BIG-STEP that i over looked in mentioning, and again im REEEEALY SORY ABOUT THE MISSING PICS. after i got my rails from the welding shop i took them to the mechine shop, they milled the surfaces of the plates&welds, THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, as well as had the "slots" the axel go's through milled out to just SLIGHTLY larger than the diameter of the axel, That was only $40.00,
/forum/../images/users/snowmobile dave/sled fix 13.jpg
there is a "spacer" 1 on each side that go's between the rail &the wheel, they must be ground down 1/8" each, its IMPORTANT that they are ground FLAT, 1 end will go against the inner race on the bearring in the wheel the other against the rail, so they need to be right,(if ya need pics let me know and ill get what i can tomrow, ps.... IM GO'N SLEDN ,IM GO'N SLEDN IM GO'N SLEDN, day after tomrow,
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/forum/../images/users/snowmobile dave/sled fix2.jpg
there is also a spacer on each side of the inner wheel, again MAKE SURE that ya grind off 1/8" from EACH peace, this will keep the wheel lined up where it belongs, also a tip in re-installing the suspension, its WAY easer to do with the rear axel & wheels off, if this [email protected] computer didnt EAT-UP my pics id be able to show ya,
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/forum/../images/users/snowmobile dave/sled fix done.jpg
so in short - plates&welding $30.00 the mechine shop $40.00 bushings $3.80, now my rails are LITTERALY in better shape to take a beating than stock rails, AND all for under $90.00, MAN i really wish i had the rest of the pic's, well this summer im gonna take my other sks and put a 141x2" WITH a 136 suspention "slid" back that is if i ever stop riden (IM GO'N RID'N--IM GO'N RID'N)
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wow, those are great ideas, both my brother and i are seasonally getting our rails welded up do wear damage, i think this summer we will be going this route, looks like a good solid job that is going to last hopefully longer than a season! i guess thats the price for aggressive riding!lol...
Quality fix for a common problem. Good work Dave. I know my dad has been struggling with the same problem for sometime. Also he managed to crack one of his rails nearly in half.
Good job Dave! Lot cheaper, and stronger than a replacement skid.
What did you use for the bushings in pic 5? Is it something common?
This is my fix for that problem
Get a 1/2" steel angle iron that looks like an " L " cut it to the length of the opening where the axle goes. Drill and bolt it onto the inside of the rail make sure the bottom of the " L " contacts the axle shaft. The flat of the angle will help support the axle. Last thing remove ( 1/2" and a bit ) from the top side of the spacers nearest each rail. Make sure the steel angle rest on top of the axle not the spacer.

Might cost $8.00 and can be done with suspension in sled
Great fix if you skid is to this point already, but to keep this from happening, regularly check your bolts and re Loc-tite them and tighten. The red removable loc-tite works much better than the blue stuff.
Ace-xlt, what's up,?... ya definetly are right, P R E V E N T I V E, MATAINANCE IS THE KEY, i gotta add my 2 cents in, the blue loktite has a tendance to be more forgiving, the red (imo) and experance, is to strong,
Iv never seen the bushing trick befor,I have a rail with a reamed out hole.. Its just a matter of finding the perfect sized bushing.
I just recently bought a 95 XLT SP and found one of the front holes where the swing arm mounts was egged badly causing the entire skid to be off center and the track was rubbing on the tunnel protectors. Well, what I did was make a special bushing (wish I had pics) that was one piece that replaced the spring clip bushing, the washer, and the bushing for the egged hole. I then milled the hole to the proper size so the bushing is tight and re-assembled. works excellent.

Two VERY important things to remember:
1. The bushing must be slightly thinner than the rail so the entire assembly will tighten to the rail without the bushing becoming loose again.
2. Depending on the purpose of the hole, it MUST be drilled at the exact location of the original hole or the suspension may not run centered in the sled. This will be nearly impossible with a standard drill bit. I work in a machine shop, so I used a CNC milling machine to precisely repair the hole.

Just my $0.02.
For bushings everyone uses is a Ski leg bushing cut to width and installed as per snowmobile_dave. Check regularly and red loctite and no problems

this is what i did.


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You guys could of found new or used rails for around that price and not had to rig everything. Just did this on sons 01 sno-pro brand new rails on ebay for $100.00 for both. Not bashing but giving my 2 cents.
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