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Discussion Starter #1
cant seem to get the primary to pop loose with clutch puller. the puller is really tight NO BUDGE.....tapped on it with hammer and retightened..NO BUDGE...how do you keep everything from rotating?

dont want to use heat because of crank seals..

its a 94 xlt.

Please help!!!
 

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Keep it tight and hit the back with a hammer lightly should pop off?? Probably some corrosion in there. Good luck!! Mine was a pain at first now it comes right off!
 

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Keep it tight and hit the back with a hammer lightly should pop off?? Probably some corrosion in there. Good luck!! Mine was a pain at first now it comes right off!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
you mean hit it on the back of the motor side sheeve? That doesnt sound to good if you bend or break the sheave. This clutch has never been off at 8000 miles.
 

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Sorry didn't see your post earlier, I would have sujested use PB blaster on it, Used it on the rxl with no problems. I juse sprayed on the inside of the cluch, let it sit for a day or so and went at it with the clutch puller and it came right off with little or no real force.

As for keeping it from spinning, you need to shove a sturdy wooden broom handle in between the clutch were to hold it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i know the clutch is junk now but how do i still get it off.....

kinda sad. gave it to my kid as an early xmas gift. He tried alittle to hard and now this.
 

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How many threads did your puller go in? If you look into your clutch can you see any threads left? I did the same thing and it was due to a cheep ass puller that only threaded in part way. I cut it down and was able to remove the clutch with the remaining threads. I hope your luck is as good as mine. Now I have a quality puller, lesson learned!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
think it was in most of the way(2 pc)...only had about 3 threads showing on puller then it got loose . pulled out the puller and a spiral of aluminum can out with it. about 3 big twists.now th puller doesnt get snug and seems sloppy going in. i figure the threads are toast. now the dilema begins. I am gonna help him with another clutch but we have to get the f....d up one off. tap it bigger and find a larger thread bolt if we just junk the clutch?.

our next question is we have a good working clutch on a 500 3 cylinder(79) in 85 chassis.we have know idea if its the original clutch. will this clutch fit the xlt. i will go take pics in a little bit.

[attachment=49881]

[attachment=49882]



these are of the xlt.....[attachment=49884]
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by Ultra680
[br]It sounds like the same problem I had. There's more than the clutch at stake here. A mistake will ruin your crank!

how did you get yours off???
 

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The twin clutch will NOT fit on the triples. Different taper.
The clutch will go too far on the crank and wipe out the seal. ( been there, done that )
 

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I don't think that correct, isn't the p-85 the same type of taper on it? I just put a p-85 off a indy 500 and put it on my rxl. It's the same gap as the original.
 

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The taper is the same on the twins and the triples, the difference is that the back side of the twins clutch is bossed and if you do not machine it off to be flush with the backside facing area it will rub against the seal and cost you an engine.
 

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Originally posted by tripplethret
[br]The taper is the same on the twins and the triples, the difference is that the back side of the twins clutch is bossed and if you do not machine it off to be flush with the backside facing area it will rub against the seal and cost you an engine.
What do you mean by bossed? I'm just trying to figure out what you are trying to say.
 

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OK, the back side of the clutch that faces the engine has a raised edge around the hole for the crankshaft on the twin model clutch where as the clutch for the triple has a flat surface from sheave outer edge O.D. across.
Here is a quick rough drawing I just did in paint shop. This should get you the picture I am trying to convey.
[attachment=50356]
 

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