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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 92 polaris indy 440 XCR, and the track was really bad. I bought a new track, and have taken the skid out.

The only thing left to take out is the shaft with the drive cogs on it, so that I can remove the old track and put in the new one. In order to get at the shaft end on the left side, I need to remove the clutch (the big one - not the one on the engine). I took the bolt in the center out, but it won't pull off. It slid about a 1/4 inch, but then it won't come off any more. How can I get this thing off?

The snow is coming soon, please help me!
 

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is there room to use a flywheel puller? that would work good, and is also what my cousin used, dont ask me how, though.

It's not fair to give only a tiny bit, weatherman, gotta have more now!
 

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you should put grease on the shaft and just move it back and forth until it comes off. A clutch is really touchy and you should be really careful when messing with it. If you put a dent in it, it can throw it off balance.



"Might Be Crazy But I Ain't Dumb" - Cooter
 

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There's a square key or a chuck that is on that shaft, the thickness of a pencil. If it slid a quarter inch, then it's possible that the key is binding against the clutch or shaft or that it even wore down a groove to prevent you from removing it. Spray WD-40 in there to dissolve any rust, and then try it. I use a little Anti-seize on the shaft when i install it. This has worked for me.
 

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i dont think there is enough room for a flywheel puller, even if it is the three jaw/ smaller version, and if there was room, i dont think you should take the risk of knocking the secondary clutch out of trueness, like polaris-man said. a little oil should do the trick, and one think i do after i get mine off is take some fine grit sandpaper, and remove all the buildup on the shaft. steel shaft in contact with alloy clutch will cause a reaction similar to rust, some steel wool will also do the trick, then as it was mentioned before, put some anti-sieze on the shaft, keep her from stickin next time.
 

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as with many metals... a denser metal like steel of the driveshaft usually bullies the alloy, aluminum, or other softer metal and makes a corrosion of some sort... my grandfather told me this. he was a mechanical/electrical/government engineer... he helped in designed most of the tridant missles, and the first nuclear submarines... maybe i heard him wrong but thats what he says

Duct tape much like the force... it has a light side, a dark side.... and it holds the world together!
 

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I called some mechanics regarding this, and they all said heating the clutch with a propane torch (not acetylene) won't hurt it, so heat up the clutch, not the shaft, with the torch, then it will expand and should slide off easier.

I personally would not do this, for heat weakens metal (In my opinion) but I figured I'd throw the suggestion out.



"Might Be Crazy But I Ain't Dumb" - Cooter
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the suggestions guys. Well, as it turns out, i carefully re-analyzed my options, and I figured out that I don't need to remove the clutch to get at the bearing and holder at the end of the shaft with the drive cogs on it. I was able to change the track without much difficulty, just a little work, and a good engine hoist to hold the sled off the ground.

BUT...

When I decided that I didn't need the clutch off, I put the washers and bolt back on it. It seems the bolt was pretty weak, because it BROKE off leaving only 1 set of threads in the open for me to try to grab. Now I gotta figure out how to get the rest of the bolt out to put a new one in!!!! Any ideas?

-Dean
 

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well sounds like your gonna end up removing that pully wether you want to or not. If you cant get it out easily, i have used a snowmobile flywheel puller to pull the clutch when it decides to get an attitude with me. It is a very small puller similar to a car steering wheel puller. It Worked well for me. After you get the pully off its time to get out the drill bits and the E-Z outs and back the remains of the bolt out of the hole.

Oh by the way, its nice to know that there is actually someone else out there named Dean


Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.

Edited by - TriumphoverU on 09 Nov 2001 23:43:05
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok guys, no problem! I went to Fleet farm and got an easy-out and a 12" long 1/8" drill bit. I got it out no problem. I replaced it with one of those grade 8 bolts. Not gonna let that happen again!

Now, i just gotta get the chaincase cover back on, and I'm good to go!
 

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man, breakin bolts off really sucks ass!! im glad you got it out though.i broke both track tensioner bolts off my buddies 92 polaris, i ended up drillin/extracting,then had to re-tap the holes bigger cause it really screwd them up. but the tensioners wouldnt stay tight, so a little piece of fishing line threaded in with the tensioner screws did the trick. just a thought for anyone that cant get loctite to work or if you dont like to use loctite, fishin line will work just as good
 

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i broke 2 bolts on my truck for the bumper, and sliced off 2 knuckles.. HEHEHE... ACETYLENE TORCH WOULDA BEEN NICE... melt them out!... lol ... be careful with your clutch.. the driven clutch is right on that thing eh.. same at my 91 340.. that i cant get a track for anymore.... LOL sellin it maybe some wants it

Duct tape much like the force... it has a light side, a dark side.... and it holds the world together!
 
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