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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finally replaced the battery in my 2001 Touring 500f. I had thought that was why the RER didn't work as I had seen this being the issue in a Rev sled before. However, with a good battery the RER still doesn't work. According to the manual the reverse exciter coil is supposed to have 160-240 ohms, which it does. Its also supposed to produce 1.6~4v... which it does. I know all my switches are good because it runs fine in forward but when you hit the RER button it just slows and dies. Any suggestions? Please tell me its not in the DPEM or whatever its called [:(]
 

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Check your compression and post up on dootalk. The compression issue sounds like it though.
 

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Is the sled tough to start even when warm. If it is, that leads me to think low compression also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No. I just completely rebuilt the engine as it had a bad crank bearing. Bought it blown up and replace crank did a top end with 100% new gaskets. Sled always starts 2nd pull even when dead cold. I'll do a compression check just to see though.

One thing that I wasn't sure about is the parts breakdown shows only an o-ring to seal the heads to the cylinder but the gasket kit came with an o-ring and a flat aluminum plate style thing (smooth with no texture to it). Previously the engine had had both the o-ring and the aluminum plate in it and I'm wondering if I should take that plate out and leave just the o-ring? The manual I was working from wasn't really clear on it.
 

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If the kit came with it run it, probably supposed to seal that way. Im not familiar enough with the rer to be able to give you a 100% answer. Check your compression and report back as that's the only reason I know of why a sled will not go in reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok. So I took the aluminum plates out so its just the o-rings in the head. I know the plates aren't supposed to be in there any more as I talked to a snowmobile place and he said they were for the very first 503's. I adjusted the idle up a little bit and sometimes it would go and sometimes it wouldn't. I think my compression gauge isn't working though because it bleeds off the pressure.
 

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Get another compression gauge and check it again, also make sure the sled is fully warmed up before trying to get it to go into rer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I disassembled the top end and deglazed the cylinder, checked everything, put it back together and it still came up the same. Went and got another gauged from work and it turns out my gauge is bad. It has 115-120 psi with the other gauge and my first one won't go over 100 (put on an air compressor with 130PSI)

Could too big of a gap on the spark plugs cause the problem?
Needle and seats maybe leaking on idle causing it to act flooded? It seemed pretty wet in the engine and the plugs seem wet. I've adjusted the mixture screw and chokes several times to eliminate that. Also the sled seems to dog if it sits a while like its loading up.
 

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Flooding could be an issue with it not going into rer. Try adjusting the air/fuel screw and the choke first and then check your plugs. If they are drier then before, try the rer and see what it does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The plugs in this I don't think have every really dried out. That is why I am leaning towards needle/seat. I will try adjusting the float-tang tomorrow and see what happens. I already tried playing with the mixture screw a little. I guess I could back it out more as I only tried making it richer. I'm going to try adjusting the spark plug gap down to the .018" that it says on top of the engine too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I raised the carb slide needle up to the middle position where it is supposed to be and also re-adjusted the float tang. This seemed to make the power range a little smoother but it still dogs just a little off idle. Now my plugs seem to be getting dry but the RER still doesn't work.
 

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MaxTrax said:
So I finally replaced the battery in my 2001 Touring 500f. I had thought that was why the RER didn't work as I had seen this being the issue in a Rev sled before. However, with a good battery the RER still doesn't work. According to the manual the reverse exciter coil is supposed to have 160-240 ohms, which it does. Its also supposed to produce 1.6~4v... which it does. I know all my switches are good because it runs fine in forward but when you hit the RER button it just slows and dies. Any suggestions? Please tell me its not in the DPEM or whatever its called [:(]
Belt deflection is off
 

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Ok, i just experienced the same thing today, RER isnt working. Im wondering if it is becaused the carbs need cleaning, im thinkin the pilots are a dirty. But hit rer and it runs down and dies. Have a new belt on it and new plugs. ^^^Why would the belt deflection cause the rer not to work?
 

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BskidooC said:
MaxTrax said:
So I finally replaced the battery in my 2001 Touring 500f. I had thought that was why the RER didn't work as I had seen this being the issue in a Rev sled before. However, with a good battery the RER still doesn't work. According to the manual the reverse exciter coil is supposed to have 160-240 ohms, which it does. Its also supposed to produce 1.6~4v... which it does. I know all my switches are good because it runs fine in forward but when you hit the RER button it just slows and dies. Any suggestions? Please tell me its not in the DPEM or whatever its called [:(]
Belt deflection is off
The idle could simply be too high


Your idle could simply be too high, if it is it will not switch to reverse
 
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