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Discussion Starter #1
hey, so i dont know if you read my other post but my sled was flooding, i redid the carb, and bought a set of ngk br8eix iridium plugs. so it starts and idles fine now, but theres almost no acceleration, i was able to get it across the lawn and back pretty slow though, and its not just cuz its a 340, if i nail th throttle it will wind up then sort of bog (not a loud bogging noise, but struggle) then begin to move very slowly. i am not sure if it is running rich or lean, the high speed adjustment started out 100% lean then i progressivly moved it out to about 5 full turns with no luck. the idle screw has been set at 1 turn out the whole time. and ideas?
thanks
 

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It's running on one cylinder. Start it up, let it idle for a few minutes. Toss some snow on the Y pipe. The one that doesn't melt is the cylinder that isn't running. Now that you've figured that out, now the question is why it isn't running. Do you have spark on both, consistently? Is the non-running cylinder getting fuel? Is the plug wet? Is there even compression on both cylinders?

Start with those. Let us know how thos go and we'll help you out from there.

Bryan
 

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^ Do exactly what he said. Does it have one or two carbs?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yup you got it. i checked the spark and only the right cylinder is getting spark, i noticed before that the left was MUCH weaker than the right, but stil existed somewhat. Now it has absolutely no spark, i readjusted the card and had it running today, its able to move itself somewhat quickly and easily. So to verify the dead cylinder i pulled the plug boot off it and it did not affect the way it ran. so im assuming this a a coil problem? should i take it apart check my connections and replace the wires before i buy the coil, or am i better off just buying a new coil so i dont have to worry about it? I found this http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/01-112.html?id=kZdRr5HS its for a 74 cheetah 340 kawi. thing is that on the sled both coils are one unit, do you think this will be both or something different?
thanks for all the great help
 

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Do you know if that thing has CDI or points? Try taking the wires from the stator to the coils and switching it. If it follows that, you have bad points or a bad condensor. If it doesn't follow that, it's either a bad external coil, plug, or plug wire. Try switching the wires and plugs. If nothing changed through all of this testing, you have a bad coil. Lemme know when you do that and find out if it has CDI or points/condensor (probably points)

Bryan
 

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check if coil wire is cracked, or it may have come off where boot attaches to end of wire.Chances are if one is firing the other will if theres a good wire there..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
im pretty sure my sled has points ignition, i havent noticed a CDI unit around, and in 74 there were two models a t1c340s1a(points) and a t1c340s2a(CDI), i have the s1a. i have also found out that what i thought was the coil unit is actually a cover for two seperate coils. Tommorow i will try the switching of wires like ibreakstuff suggested, and if no luck there i will remove the cover and inspect. I am ale to order the coil and have it within 24hrs for like 25 bucks so its not that big a deal, im actually hoping that it is the coil.
thanks for all the help ill post what happens tommorow
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok this is really weird, i switched the wires, and the sprak switched sides. it was on the right , i switched the wires from the magneto, and the spark switched to the left. Which would indicate the points or something is where the problem is. so then i switched the wires back, but the spark stayed on the left!
i dont have any idea whats going on
any help would be great
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok so i was able to start the sled again, with the spark eing on the right hand cylinder(where it originally was). i tried switching again, and as last time the spark did switch, and as last time it stayed switched, but i was able to start and run it on the originol cylinder. I think it is switching, but just takes a few seconds of running to switch back. which indicated a problem with points/condensors/internal coil right? so i took off the starter and fan pulley, watched the points as i turn the engine over, but they do not move while they are visible. i have never worked with points so i have no idea. im going to look into buying all new internal parts (coils points condensors). can anyone walk me through the removal of the "flywheel"?(the thing with holes in it that you see the points through). and should this be done with the engine out?
thanks for all the help
 

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I'm not familiar with your particular sled so I am no help, I don't know if you can take the flywheel off with the engine in or not. But to take it off you need a puller, that's for sure. Just throwing in new stuff won't fix it. You need to set the point correctly. You need a timing light or buzzer or several other things, and a feeler guage. Your points may be fine and just need to be cleaned and adjusted. I think it's time you invested in a manual. Or borrowed one from someone. These have to be set dead on and without the proper specs it won't run right. Trust me I know.
Your internal coils are fine this means my the way. Points and/or condensor.

Bryan
 

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you need a fly wheel puller or a small steering wheel puller will work.attach to fly wheel,put some pressure on center bolt,tap on end of bolt with a hammer or on fly wheel with a brass,or dead blow hammer,it should pop loose.If not put a little more pressure on center bolt and repeat previous steps.If you need more help let us know..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok thanks, yeah i looked into it and its not going to be really easy to get all new parts anyway, ill likely start by cleaning the points and hopefully that works. I have a steering wheel puller so i may try this tommorow, ive heard the points gap for this is .022?. is there any process for setting the points?
thanks for all the help
 

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Let me see if I remember how to do this...

You need to get the cam arm on the very top of one of the lobes, opening the points the most. Put your feeler guage in there. If it doesn't fit, or is too loose then loosen (do NOT remove completely-just enough to move it) the screw holding the set of points that is riding on the lobe. Insert feeler guage with proper gap inbetween contacts on points. Adjust distance so the feeler guage easily but not loosely slides between contact points. Tighten points. Repeat for second cyl/set of points/lobe.

Bryan
 

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First of all, the high speed jet needle should only be open 1and 1/2 to 2 turns from gently seated as the initial setting.
Second, AC used Kawasaki engines in '74.
Point gap for that engine is; 0.012/0.016 with timing advanced. Set at 0.015 BTDC timing retarded.
 

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see if both of ur carbs are moving might hv put it back together wrong
 

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Discussion Starter #16
it has a single carb, and yes it is working, i have already established that the spark is absent in one cylinder.
 

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You will never get a (strong enough anyway) spark @.022 point gap. BE PATIENT when adjusting them -it may take more then once to get it in the .012 to .016 range as suggested.
I like to take a feeler gauge from the lower end of the acceptable opening range, and find most times after tightening the point's hold down screw the gap opens slightly. So if you use the .016 feeler gauge it may actually open to .018 after you get it all tightened up. You will get it right if you take your time.

I find the aftermarket point sets are inferior to originals so clean up the old ones with emory clothe or a nail file if you can not find anything else. Be sure to clean out any of the residue or grit from the sandpaper before you attempt to set the points.

Last suggestion is a repeat from above BUY A SERVICE BOOK! The information will pay for itself many times over so long as you READ IT BEFORE you start to tackle a maintanence project.

Join the Arctic Cat Club of America ,ACCA, and for the dues membership they will include a manual of your choice from their archives.
I suggest the 71 to 73 panther manual as it covers the kawa motors fairly well. Here is a link to a good club to join (member 0125)
http://www.angelfire.com/biz/FirstTwenty/CatPause.html

This a great site Happy Holidays
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok i bought a flywheel puller yesterday and im going to remove the flywheel today, clean and inspect everything and re set the points, ill us .012. im assuming this will require the engine to be pulled, or at least will make the job go easier. Thanks for all the help ill update how things go today later on. Im going to look into joing that club, as for the service manual i was looking into getting one from ebay, but wasnt about to shell out the $35 that the auction had risin to.
 

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Intertec Snowmobile service manual 10th edition is what I am using. Covers most everything built right up to some of the early '90's. You can buy this at most NAPA or many Auto parts stores.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yeah ive also seen a clymer vintage snowmobile manual, any opinions on this. OK so for the sled i pulled the flywheel, which i did wrong, i now realize that you are supposed to po the flywheel then remove the fan housing to take off the flywheel and ring gear. I didnt do that, so now my flywheel has no ring gear. I dont have elec start anyway so doesnt matter? upon inspection it seem my mag side oil seal is shot :S. although i know this means a somewhat big job( for me, a relativly inexperienced mechanic) i am ok with it because i will know what ive got once its done. the only thing im not sure about is splitting the case, will it just pop apart or do i need any special tools? also does the clutch have to come off?
thanks for all the help!
merry christmas!
 
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