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Discussion Starter #1
PROBLEM

The tunnel has two holes (horizontally) beside each other at the front and rear of the tunnel where you attach the skid too. Someone said that those holes have been drilled by someone else. Is there a trick to get more suspension this way?

I attached the skid to the farthest rear hole, and the closest to the front hole. There is 2-3 inches of play in the track with the rear bogey wheel adjuster set in the middle.

I did notice there are TWO brackets under the foot rails on the tunnel. They don't seem to be so strong to attach the suspension too but seems like that would get rid of the slack.

I found that when I crank the rear bogey wheels to the farthest most position that the slack is ok. I don't think they should be adjusted that far!!!

And second, how tight / loose should the track be????
 

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Do you know what suspension it is?? A 95 XLT has the 8" suspension. The '95 XLT SP has the Xtra-10 suspension. The only reason there should be extra holes is if the 8" suspension was upgraded to the xtra-10. The brackets you are referring to are to be uses for the deep snow setting. Nothing will give you more suspension. You can use those 2 brackets and the back of the sled will sit a little higher, but suspension travel is limited to what suspension you have. My manual says there are different track tension procedures for the 8" and the Xtra-10. So let me know what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, it isn't the Xtra10. My buddy has it on his 1997 488 Polaris. So it must be the 8 inch.

Anyway, I have put it on the "deep snow" setting and the tracks tension is properly adjusted and looks good.

BUT, I weigh 180 lbs and it is as stiff as hell! (new springs were added) The only way I can get it to move up and down is by standing on the back rail and jumping on it! Is there something wrong or is that normal for an unused newly installed refurbished skid? I dunno, it was stiff before I took it apart to clean up.

Thanks for you reply!!!
 

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Back in 'the day', I had a 1990 Indy400. Anyways, for coolness points, I dropped the suspension to the deep snow brackets (I didn't until just now after reading this post, know what they were for, I just wanted to raise the back end a bit) located under the tunnel. It raised the back end up a bit and of course I looked cooler.

Alas, the side effect you have already found. It stiffened the whole suspension up considerably which was a major drawback as there wasn't a lot of suspension to begin with.

It could be a cobination of the dropping the skid and the new springs. Did you go with the stock springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, I went with stock springs.

Maybe I should get softer springs?

Or move the suspension back the way it was. I think I'll ride with it though. Won't get stuck as easily in deep snow.

NO REVERSE!!!

What do you think?
 

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What setting are you using on your spring tensioning blocks??
 

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Yea, what acexlt said. Make sure the torsion springs on their lowest setting. Also, if the shocks have adjustable pre-load for the springs, back pre-load off as much as possible.

Long-travel suspensions have spoiled a lot of people. I think the ride in the back will be somewhat harsh whether on the deep snow setting or not. If you like it where it is, then I'd leave it. I left mine on the deep snow setting, as there wasn't that much of an improvement going back to the stock settings.
 

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Vignale like Ace said make sure the preload is set as soft as it will go. Also the tunnel will take on extra weight with snow plus your gear will weigh you down somemore. The XC-100 suspension is stiffer than the older ones but it shouldn't be too stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
God damn that suspension is stiff!!!

I am 185 and can move it 1 inch when standing on the running boards.

When I stand on the back of it (the rear grab rail) and jump, I move it maybe 4 inches.

It's going to be a rough ride!!!

Should I keep them in?
 

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At a 185 pounds the stock oem springs should be just fine. I still believe the stiffness of the suspension is mainly due to dropping the skid to the 'deep snow' mounting holes.

Ride it, if you don't like it, try moving the skid back to upper holes and see if that is more to your liking.

I'm no expert on suspensions and how they work. But if I remember correctly, when I dropped my skid, I had to really compress the sucker to get it into the deep snow mounting holes. This must reduce the usable travel of the skid and take away the low end plush travel portion of the shocks [?] [?]
 
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