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Discussion Starter #1
Im new to this site but love the quality feedback ive seen. I am not the most knowledgeable about tuning sleds, and after my first ride of the year I have to do something. I ride an 06 Indy 500. It is completely stock, and I want to get some more power out of it. I dont want to comprimise reliability. I looked into getting a can and was told that for my sled it will do nothing. Is that true? id be willing to put one on if it wasnt to terribly loud. I also notice that im getting terrrible fuel economy and when i bar it if im going 60 or so it bogs, but if i back off just a hair it picks back up. I was told that leaning it out would help, but dont know much about it and how much. I don't want to blow it up or risk breaking down on the trails. Any help would be great.
 

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I'd recommend you try searching for tuning indy 500. You'll find at least a 6-pack of information on that.

Consider a clutch kit, it's going to give you the biggest bang for your buck. You'll want to stud the track to keep it from spinning if you clutch it. 96 studs should do it fine. A couple inches more carbide on the skis will keep the balance. Forget the can. jetting is what it needs to get rid of that bog. Search for check jetting and you'll get a lot of info on that too. Polaris sleds are routinely rich i jetting. Going down one or at most two main jet sizes is usually OK. Depends on the temperatures you will be riding at. Raising the circlip on the needle in the carb will lean out the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle.

I started with the jetting on my '99 Indy 500 and it woke it right up. Didn't cost me a penny and increased mileage to boot. i studded it and the next thing i would have done was clutch kit, but I sold it to a friend.

Keep asking questions. There are a lot of Indy 500 owners on this site and they can help you figure out what most of this stuff is about.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
will I have to do anything else if I go down a size with my jets? Do I have to raise the circlib as well if I jet it?
 

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Main jets only adjust your wide open throttle. The needle adjusts the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. So I'd do both, then check jetting. Run sled on snow at say 1/2 throttle for as long as you can. Say 1/4 mile? With the throttle position at 1/2 hit the kill switch with your other hand and let sled come to a stop (keept throttle at 1/2 till sled stops). Check plugs and if you're so inclined check piston wash. If you don't know what that is do a seach for piston wash.

Do the same with sled running WOT. Check plugs and wash.

Any white on plugs or piston then too lean. You want nice brown tan color. Like cardboard.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input, im not familiar with messing with my carbs but am pretty proficient with cars. Is this something i could do myself, i sure would like to save the money the dealership is going to charge. I was told jets are really cheap. Just to be sure, drop jetting one size and go one down with my clips? I know ive only got a 500 but is there anything else i can do to get a power gain? Pipes and cans are not worth the money for the trouble they bring with them? Kind of like headers on a car? Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Forgot to ask. I noticed the other day when we went for a ride that my back suspension isn't holding my seat all the way up. I lift up the back end and theres about an inch or two that the shock extends before the track comes off the ground. It seems to me thats wasted travel? I didnt notice this last year. Is it supposed to be like that or do i need to adjust my shock? ive only got about 1200 miles on it and im not jumping it, just trail riding, and i weigh about 185. thanks again, ive been telling all my buddies about this site, its a pretty awesome resource.
 

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Rear suspension moves up and down. That's why it should sag an inch or more with you on it. Less sag by adjusting torsion springs. You can do the carbs yourself. Main jets are easiest. There are bowls under the carbs. have drain tubes with plugs in them. Take out plugs, drain fuel into cup or rag. There's a plug in bowl. unscrew plug and there's the main jet. Check out this website for exploded view of mikuni carbs.

http://www.sudco.com/
 

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Originally posted by barrettecd02
[br]Pipes and cans are not worth the money for the trouble they bring with them? Kind of like headers on a car? Thanks again.
Pipes can really change the behavior of motors. Mostly because of the increased airflow through the cylinder. This increase usually requires jetting changes. And jetting changes every 5 degrees is very likely on most twins. Also to get the advertised power gain clutching changes are necesary. Because pipes are just another tuning tool. And what I mean by that is with the correct dimensions you can increase and decrease the RPM and gain power that way. But with RPM comes reduced reliability. Plus pipes on your 500 will gain you between 3-7 HP or about that. Not a bad gain, but for the money you can spend on pipes they may not be worth it in your eyes.

To me after you take on Offshore's suggestiopns you next best bet might be gearing for the style of rider you are. Are you a corner to corner or a lake runner? If you are corner to corner you may think about gearing down in the chaincase and getting to the next corner faster. If you run lakes maybe think about buying aftermarket pipes and getting the speed out of your sled. But, you may want to search for topics on pipes and what is necesary so you know what to expect.[:I]
 

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90 percent of sleds you can drop the mains one size and the needle one clip. meaning move the clip up one notch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for all your help guys, i think im going with an EPI trail kit,96 studs and the jetting. I am so glad to find this site, im sure my dealer would have sold me pipes when thats not what i want, I know this because he tried to. thanks for all the advice and ill be sure to let you know how it works out if we ever get any frickin snow again
 

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Originally posted by Triple650Indy
[br]
Originally posted by barrettecd02
[br]Pipes and cans are not worth the money for the trouble they bring with them? Kind of like headers on a car? Thanks again.
Pipes can really change the behavior of motors. Mostly because of the increased airflow through the cylinder. This increase usually requires jetting changes. And jetting changes every 5 degrees is very likely on most twins.
Are we talking twin pipes, or a single pipe on a twin motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
single pipes on a twin motor. Im having my jetting leaned a size and getting hopefully a mild clutch, but have been told that going to twin pipes or a can would, upset the law and land owners, cost me a bunch of money, and give me very little in return except for a headache. True?
 

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the stock clutches are just fine. Just put your new setting/components in and your good. Bout the only real performance upgrade to the clutches you have them selves is mabye a set of slp buttons for the secondary. They make two differnet grades. They help a little and last pretty long.
 

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I think 500fasenuf has an epi kit in his 500. It wouldn't hurt to put a clutch kit in it. New springs in both clutches and weights in the primary. If you do that, you should put a few studs and a new belt on it.
 
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