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Discussion Starter #1
Ok.. my friend sold me the Jag. Says that is starts/runs ok, until you shut it off. He says the coil is shot, water builds up in it, and sled won't start for about 2-hours.
Welllll.. I replaced the coil, and (after several pulls, and dumpin fuel down the cylander manualy) I finaly get it started. When running, runs niiice! But is doesn't idle correctly, as the carb was rebuilt and never retuned. So it dies out when I leave it for about 1-minute. I try to start it.. no such luck. Not even w/ fuel down the cylander.
I was told by a local sled-shop it could be
1.) Crank seals (which, BTW, were replaced, as well as the "crank" by my friend)
2.) Compression low (which, also BTW, my friend says is pretty damned high!)
3.) Or Electrical. (dunno on this one..)
Any help?
What if I just keep ether w/ me at all times incase I have to shut it off?
Thanx all..
Matt
 

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i'd be wondering about float level in the carb...if the jag uses a mikuni carb i'd almost bet its running rich or the needle and seat is bad in the carb. or maybe the choke isnt closing/sealing all the way?

thats where i would start

ToU
 

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Have you checked the fuel pump? Also still sounds like a possible seal problem. Ask your friend if the crank seal was a split seal with o-rings. Do you have clear fuel lines so that you can visually see the gas go to the carb. Replace fuel filter unless you already have. Good Luck and keep us posted. This is all I can think of at this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Jag does have a Mikuni.

The carb was just rebuilt before my friend sold the sled to me. He DID say I would have to tune the idle.. but that is all he said.

What do I do w/ the float and needle?

Yes, the fuel pump was JUST replaced.. as in about 4 days ago.

Yes.. I poured fuel down the cyl. to get the flow going, and now I can get a visual of the fuel moving to the carb.. and see it get pumped thru the fuel-filter, which BTW was just replaced. It is that 15-fuel catalyst in Dennis Kirk.
 

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a bad crank seal on your non drive end will spray oil all over your points making the engine run ok after it sits for a day but really crapy after running it for a while. sounds like the little spring on the seal lip may be disslodged.dont forget to clean up your points when you change your seal.a trick to remove the old seal is to drill a small hole in it and then turn a wood screw into it just enough so that you can pry the seal out with sidecutters but not let the screw hit your bearing behind the seal
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, since this is my first sled, as well as first time working on the 2-stroke.. so will you give me a little more of a detailed instruction?
Be patient... lol
Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also.. how hard/expensive is this to replace?
 

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Wait before you do any mechanical work. You need to figure out why the engine stalls and doesn't start. I think Triumph was on the right track with the fuel problem. Get it running and with it on blocks run it for a while. If it won't idle then run it at higher RPM. See how it runs especially how it accelerates. Then shut it off without letting it idle and check the plugs. It could be that it is set too rich at idle or it's idling too low. Let's start with that and we'll work from there. Remember, always check easiest things first.
 

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My first idea is partially or fully plugged idle jet. If it's not brand spanking new replace it.
 

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Well I still would lean towards Carb problems. I dont know how mechanically inclined your friend is, or how much he knows about carbs but that would be my first plan of attack. If you dont have a repair manual, you may want to try and borrow one or buy one if you have to. Without me being there in person it is very difficult to explain how to rebuild/clean them. I would Totally disassemble the carb and clean everything. Make sure the floats slide up and down the posts easily and make sure they are not waterlogged (sink in gasoline) Set the air screw to 1.5 turns out from the closed position and set the idle screw in about 2 turns after it contacts the throttle slide (just to get it started). Adjust the idle screw as needed to set idle speed.
 

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it wouldnt be wise to use ether in a 2stroke engine, use wd40 if anything, ether is real dry, works fine on diesels, but i would never use it on a oil injected engine, IMO, im sure others will agree, wd40 wont get it started as quick as ether, but less engine damage can occur when using it
 

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fogging oil works the best for what I have seen. Has butane/propane mixture in it along with petroleum oils to lube. Try this in your cylinders for starting when having problems. Don't ever use ether starting fluid or straight gas.
 

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Try running some carb cleaner in your gas it will clear the jets if they are pluged. I do it every year to get rid of any build up from sitting all summer.
 

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I forgot if the cleaner does not work then ou might have to do a rebuild. There not hard. There are lots of sites with info on how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok.. lots of posts.. good to see!
ALSO.. BEFORE I FORGET TO MENTION.. it will NEVVVVER start w/out gasoline.. no matter how hard/long I crank at it.. I ALWAYS have to dump gas.. and it's a pain in the ass!
It seems to rev just fine.. I am gonna adjust the idle today after school..
The carb was profesionaly rebuilt.. not by my friend.
I thought wd-40 would help.. but wasn't sure, but I will try it today.
What about the type of carb-cleaner you spray in the carb.. will that work as well, or what?
THANX A BUNNNCH ALL,
Matt
 

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This problem sounds like carbs to me... couple of things to check...

Is the choke working? If not you won't be able to start without using the gas.

Is one slide higher than the other. Take out the airbox and slip your fingers between the slide and the bottom of the carb and make sure they 'feel' like they are at the same height.

Check the floats in both carbs, are the float levels the same.

Check the needle jets. Are they the same with the e-clip in the same place?

What about the air screws? Are they turned out the same number of turns?

Also, why doesn't it start? You need to figure out if it is because of spark, air, or fuel. If it has spark then start looking to see if there is two much fuel and perhaps it is flooded.

Hope that helps.
 

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Reminds me of Sophomore year in the power tech class, took apart a whole moped engine and rebuilt it got a new carb and everything, turned out it had a brand new spark plug that was defected, made us look stupid, lol.[:D][:D][:D]
 

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^^That is to funny, i about spit my barley pop on my keyboard..

The first oil change i ever did was in my autotech class sophmore year. It was on my moms mini van. I forgot to put the drain plug back in and poured 4 quarts of oil straight through the van and onto the floor... wow did i feel dumb.
 

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A kid in my class forgot to put the oil filter on, now that was funny, even better was when they forgot to put a couple of spark plugs back in a car, they tried to start it, I was doing an oil change on a nother car, and I could hear air escapping, I let them fool around for 10 minutes before I told them to check the plugs. (they didn't have any idea what they were doing) I wouldn't trust them with a screw driver.
 
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