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Ok guys

So changing the gearing will give me a better hole shot?

Changing to a 10-62 weight will hopefully put me closer to the 8000 rpm threshold where the 96 storm seems to make the most power?

Stock pipes are good.

Stock secondary spring good?
Helix? Stock?
Stock 96 CDI
 

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bgbytor800 said:
Ok guys

So changing the gearing will give me a better hole shot?

Changing to a 10-62 weight will hopefully put me closer to the 8000 rpm threshold where the 96 storm seems to make the most power?

Stock pipes are good.

Stock secondary spring good?
Helix? Stock?
Stock 96 CDI
Yep, the gearing will give you a better hole shot and not loose any topend speed on snow. Run 62 gram wieghts. Stock pipes are good. The Polaris silver/blue secondary spring is a good spring to use. The stock helix will work good but if you stud the heck out of it you can run a full progressive helix and get even a better hole shot and better midrange pull. The stock 96 CDI is reliable and works.
 

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Silver/Blue is stock i think!

Would a "Full Progressive" helix be a Polaris part? Or aftermarket like AAEN? is that like 34 to 40 example # but is that what progesssive means?

Still trying to decide on Studs or Camoplast Cobra 1.50
 

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It might be the stock spring? Not sure... Polaris does not make a full progressive helix. A Polaris Helix like an R12 is a 50/36 and the angles on the ramps go like this: 50 50 50 then progress to 36 36 36 36. A full progressive helix would go 50 48 46 44 42.... all the way down to 36 degrees. With a FP helix the secondary clutch will shift out faster then a stock helix.
If your driving on packed snow, looser snow or powder the Cobra can't be beat. If you drive on really hard packed snow or ice the studded track will have an advantage.
 

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Battlestorm /Yellowstrom

Just curious have you both changed your stock reeds ?And if so are you using boysen or Vforce 3
Went to install Vforce 3 and relized you have to modify the carb boot by cutting the rubber at the rear of the carb boot as it fits into the stck reed cage.

Wondering if I should go Boysen?

Thanks[8D]
 

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WOW...been through this entire thread and I'm speechless...too bad y'all weren't alot closer to my house so we could have some fun out on my track...garage is full of endless supplies of Polaris clutching and gearing parts and a small heated workshop on the lake to change it all in...of course hot cocoa or coffee is always at the ready :) Storm, Storm, Storm...what can be said about them that hasn't already...except I run my Storm with gearing and clutching a century away from what I'm reading on here...but to each their own...enjoy your Storms fellas cause they won't be around forever
 

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I know it was discussed eariler but wondering if I can get some details on Helix's I went ahead and stayed with Stock Track this year and studded 168
V force reeds
clutch springs from EPI
I think the stock is a R2 hole #2
Is there a recommended helix Full progressive? Mfg and size.

Also was the exhaust on the 95 same as 96
Also I see Battlestorm changed CDI to 93 94 being hotter is this more advance? '
thanks
 

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128mphSTORM said:
WOW...been through this entire thread and I'm speechless...too bad y'all weren't alot closer to my house so we could have some fun out on my track...garage is full of endless supplies of Polaris clutching and gearing parts and a small heated workshop on the lake to change it all in...of course hot cocoa or coffee is always at the ready :) Storm, Storm, Storm...what can be said about them that hasn't already...except I run my Storm with gearing and clutching a century away from what I'm reading on here...but to each their own...enjoy your Storms fellas cause they won't be around forever

What year is your Storm and whaty is done to it? What clutching and gearing do you run?


bgbytor800 said:
I know it was discussed eariler but wondering if I can get some details on Helix's I went ahead and stayed with Stock Track this year and studded 168
V force reeds
clutch springs from EPI
I think the stock is a R2 hole #2
Is there a recommended helix Full progressive? Mfg and size.

Also was the exhaust on the 95 same as 96
Also I see Battlestorm changed CDI to 93 94 being hotter is this more advance? '
thanks
I really don't recommend a mfg for a helix, I think if its a full progressive, there all going to be close. Dalton makes a nice one but its allot of $. The SLP helix's shift out super fast compared to others so you can't go as agressive with an SLP helix as you normaly would.
My 94 CDI is the one my sled came with. If a 94 Storm had a CDI problem it got replaced with a less hot, less advanced CDI box.
 

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Battlestorm

so I understand MFG but when do you know what Helix angles to start with?
44 / 38
44 / 40
45
45 / 33
45 / 34
45 / 37
45 / 39
45 / 44
ETC??? I see Daltons Full progessive but trying to understand what angles

My Storm
96
V force reeds
168 Stock Studded Track
Stock Gearing as of now (Plans to change)
Stock Pipes and porting (Next year)
Stock Jetting
White EPI Primary
Yellow EPI Secondary
[email protected]!!
 

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bgbytor800 said:
Battlestorm

so I understand MFG but when do you know what Helix angles to start with?
44 / 38
44 / 40
45
45 / 33
45 / 34
45 / 37
45 / 39
45 / 44
ETC??? I see Daltons Full progessive but trying to understand what angles

My Storm
96
V force reeds
168 Stock Studded Track
Stock Gearing as of now (Plans to change)
Stock Pipes and porting (Next year)
Stock Jetting
White EPI Primary
Yellow EPI Secondary
[email protected]!!
Experience, testing, trial and error is the only way to know.
With stock gear you can run a 50/36, 50/34, 48/36, 48/34, a Polaris R12, these will all work good. If you lower your gear then its all about traction. To aggressive of a helix and you will just spin the track.
 

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Ok...first off I wanna say that up here in Northern Ontario...Radar runs are typically 2000ft...some stretch it out to 3000 which leaves room for some peoples stupidity...that said...There is a sanctioned radar run that is 2000ft about 45min from where I live and it's based off Guiness World record criteria...so of course we all try our best to "Tap out" in that distance

For all interested (and I know there are 1 or 2 of you here) my Storm or "The Worm" as it's refered to at the track is a 1995 SKS with all obvious 96 updates...I have verified the timing, as factory timing marks on the flywheel are sometimes out of whack (normally on XLT's) but it's worth checking into for cheap horsepower...A stock storm can safely run as tight as .065" squish on premium fuel but because I put well over 2000miles a year trail riding it still, gas in some places can get sketchy, so I split the stock double head gaskets and took a squish test and came out at .073" if memory serves me correct (they do vary .004"-.006")pretty crude! I run regular unleaded with no problems after...get this, almost 17000MILES and about 40% of those miles were on the track...love this sled
my jetting is 360-370-400 but before anyone tries this...let me verify that first...haven't had the carbs apart in years and I'm going off old notes I found in the garage...LOL
I'm also running a jackshaft from a 1998XC700 which has the press on clutch side bearing which must be run slightly offset because the tunnels are different widths...but this alowws me to use the 3/4 HYVO gears and chain...which my friends...gains oodles of efficiency...so for trail riding I use the XC7's 24/40 gearing and stock Storm clutching..Blue Primary, 10/62 weights, 34deg helix and blue secondary...this setup yeilds 114.7mph and this is the killer...100-110miles to a tank of fuel...far cry from 60 or 65 miles to a tank stock...also...to make it all work, one of the cheapest efficiency upgrades is to take the drive shaft and have it put on a lathe to machine the plastic drive sprockets trued...if you have no idea what I'm talking about the lemme know and I'll explain it a little better...doesn't take much to ruin them if done wrong, but this will give you a free rolling track and more consistant runs, fuel mileage etc. I've seen wheels on the lathe hop so bad I thought the shaft was bent...but in reality the sprockets were that bad out of round...this costs 20-30 bucks...cheap go-fast tricks...I have extensive hours into the chassis and rear suspension lining it up and truing the chassis...I run my stock 95 CDI and peak horsepower is at 8250rpm give or take a couple...on the dyno in 3 seperate runs I was within 50rpm each time at peak....so it's all about interpreting the graph right?
As far as clutch setups for dragging...I've never entertained it since I have 3 other sleds to play with...(14yr old snocross races one...one is his trail sled and I drag my xc7)As for speed running...23/35HYVO gears gets me my 128mph in 2000ft as long as it's -15celcius or colder and the track is tight...did I forget anything?...chances are I did...just ask, I have no secrets

BTW...I'm at 800ft altitude and I can hold her at WOT for miles if I want to...no problems...last year on a local lake when it was packed really tight...I could squeeze the throttle on and off from 5/8ish to 3/4 and maintain 120 on the speedo for 16miles...what I'm getting at is making the chassis roll as resistance free as it can is 3/4 of the battle


INDY STORM
"RIDE THE LIGHTNING"
 

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128mphStorm,what is the difference in the 3\4 hyvo chain you are running compared to stock? I was running a 23 upper and 35 lower as recomended by PSI, just picked up a 39 lower, gets me close to your 24/40 so I am going to give it a try. I like the idea of truing the drive sprockets, I have a lathe so I will have to give it a try. My storm has a 136 with an M-10, I was thinking of going back to a 121 to save weight and rolling rezistance. I checked the squish (one cylinder only, I will check all three)with the double gaskets,.092 I am going to cut the heads to get to .065 I only ride localy and 93 octane is not a problem. Also thought about the Legend Thunder Domes, they claim 8hp ? and much better economy but for now cutting the heads myself is the cheaper way to go. Thanks for the info, PASTORM



yellowstorm800, hows the new motor ? I thought you would have posted on how its going or did you run into problems?
 

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PAStorm said:
yellowstorm800, hows the new motor ? I thought you would have posted on how its going or did you run into problems?
The new motor is great. It has got a ton more power than last year. I took second place out at a 800' radar run 2 weeks ago with 2 bad fuel pumps. I couldn't figure out why it was loading up so bad and then I went into the pumps and saw that they both had torn diaphrams. I just put it back together last night so today I can take it out and start playing with clutching and gearing. I think it was money well spent.
 

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PAStorm, the difference between the HYVO and the early style gears is the way the chain and sprockets mesh together...if you look closely at the peaks of the HYVO sprocket teeth, they are rounded slightly, same goes with the valleys. Then look to the inside of the HYVO chain and you will see the same which in effect gives a more refined fit, but it doesn't end there...take your "normal" chain and look "inside" it and curve it as if it was running around a 23t sprocket and what do you see? All the plates that make up a link become misaligned quite noticeably...this creates a "pinching" effect on the smaller top sprockets, which in turn creates drag and premature wear... Just look at any top sprocket for evidence of the individual link marks "biting" the teeth, they will be there...skidoo has known this for years and use larger diameter sprockets to gain this efficiency back...but it's a catch 22 because now they've created more rotating mass. The HYVO chain is more efficient because with it's rounded edges keeps from pinching down to tighter diameters and since Polaris 3/4 bottom sprockets are not solid steel (they have holes in them to lighten them) you get the best of both worlds...larger diameter with less rotating mass...now just for a little proof in the pudding...if I take a 2000ft run with 24/40 gearing, I run 114.7mph and I shift completely out...I've done this so many times that my sled will not deviate even 1/10 of a mph... It's always 114.7...now if I change absolutely nothing except to change to 21/35 "normal" gears and chain I'm down to 107...the math says that those are identical gear ratios, so it's a shining example of the loss in efficiency and the clutches can't shift out in the same distance...long winded I know, but I hope it helps

Before you cut your heads, a word of warning...once you take the "meat" away it can't be put back and the expense of replacing pistons and possibly cylinders may be worth a set of thunderdomes...Storms are notorious for inconsistent swish because of inconsistent gaskets...so if you do happen to smoke something, your next gasket set may be slightly thinner and bring you tighter than .065" so my advice would be to leave a margin of error ;)
Also I am curious what year your "worm" is
If you can afford it...I would suggest a Legend TrailDominator kit for it...you will not be dissappointed I guarantee it...as a Polaris factory trained mechanic for close to 20 years...I have the utmost respect for Mark Zaic and his products at Legend, we speak quite frequently through email
Keep me posted on your progress and I'll help anyway I can

Yellowstorm, the stock gearing from 93-95 was 23/37, after that I'd have to look it up in my books
-30C this morning...guess I'm gonna twirl some wrenches in the shop till the weather breaks

Did I miss something? LOL
What new motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #139
128mphSTORM said:
Did I miss something? LOL
What new motor?
The "new motor" is my 95' Storm motor that I just got back from HTG about a month ago. It just has their Hot Trail Porting and machined heads. Then it was bored .040" over and renicisiled. It has Wiseco ultra lite pistons that HTG teflon coated. Then on the intake side it has Boysen reeds and bored 39.5mm carbs. For exhaust it has PSI Modblasters.
It would be really interesting to see what it has for squish. I might have to check that out.
As for the Legend Thunderdomes. I checked it out before I sent my motor to HTG. If I remember right it was like $450 just for the heads. I also talked to Aaen and PSI, but I think I made the right decision to go with HTG. I was very happy with them and even happier every time I pull the trigger on it.
 

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glad you like it...I met Mr Shuping years ago up here during early season testing. Would have been back in 92-93 when the XLT was just launched. He and a couple of his " minions" were doing some R&D with a turbo fitted XLT and a couple other sleds...one being a 750 Storm as it was new also. They had a full race shop equipped trailer on the lake. Never saw so many burned down engines at one place at one time in my life LOL ...but that's R&D I guess

I believe the entire trail dominator kit is about $1000 for a Storm, my co-owner has his Storm kitted with one and I'm pretty sure that's what he paid. I also put one to work in my xc700. Cost for the twin was $800. The nice thing about it is the ability to change the "A" domes to higher compression "B" domes if purchased seperately to dragrace or for higher altitude or even "C" domes with race gas or extreme altitude. All seal with o-rings so it also does away with head gaskets... Kinda cool if you ask me
But bottom line is...it's your hard earned money, so long as you're happy with what you got in return for it...then that's what counts
ENJOY ;)
 
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