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Discussion Starter #1
I am brand new to this forum, so please excuse me if I am bringing up a topic that has probably been discussed before. On Monday I am picking up a 0 miles '02 800 XCR. I am guessing that I will need studs if I want any chance of my track not spinning all the way to 100. The dealer has recommended 192 Fast Trac 1.075 carbide studs with round plastic backers. They said It is a simple but time consuming job and recommended a special cutting drill, and the use of a template.

Any comments on the type of stud and/or installation would be much appreciated.

'02 800 XCR
"Trust the Force"
 

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Discussion Starter #3
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>you don't need studs to go fast, they will slow your top speed because of the extra weight[/quote]

That makes sense, what about if I want max acceleration up to 100 mph, much below the top speed capability?

Sure do appreciate the advice, I want to get it right...


'02 800 XCR
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i don't think you need studs except if you plan to be on ice, and a lot of people will say the help to stop, but one problem if people follow to close or don't slow down when they should be.

 

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Dude, this guy was asking a question, not asking for your opinion on if he should get studs or not. Read the question.

The studs will help acceleration on all surfaces except for powder. They help on ice and hardpack, they also help ALOT for stopping. They slow down top end speed, but very very little. Installation is easy, but it is time consuming, I've done it a few times myself and it's annoying. You do need a special drill bit, and a template would help a lot.

I had 96 studs in a 1998 XCR 440 SP and I could still break 100 MPH, so I wouldn't be too concerned about them slowing you down too much.

As for the type of stud, I would recommend a carbide tip, and I dunno about the brand name, I've always used woody's and I'm going to put woody's in my new machine once my track is broken in a bit. I'm also going to use aluminum backers, not plastic ones. Aluminum weighs more but I think they are stronger.



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Nice sled you are getting!! There is no way I would go without studs on a XCR 800. A friend has a Storm 800 and his studs were worn badly and garbage last year .I was outrunning him in every condition with my XLT 580. It was actually scary driving his machine. He drove mine and couldn't believe the difference it made. 192 and the 1.075" ones are correct. The backers are your preference,round, square or aluminum. Forget the fast-trac studs. Woody's are great studs but too expensive. I can buy 2 set of the ones I get for the price of one set of theirs. The best way to go is hardened stainless steel carbide stud. Don't get the black or di-chromate (sp??) They rust and corrode and when you want to get them off its twice as much work. You will also want to put tunnel protectors on. They are available from the dealer for $40/set. The tunnel is already drilled for them and you just have to take off your seat/tank-slide them in above the track and rivet them in.

NO FOREST FAIRIES(SKIERs)
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'00 Indy Triumph
'93 XLT 580
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forget the plastic backers get the aluminum ones plastic breaks easy when cold ( i know im an injection molding plastics supervisor) the aluminum will hold up so much better and you wont lose studs

i cant take a day without my polaris Let alone a lifetime.
 

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Just for the record, I know a bunch of guys including myself that have used the plastic backers for years and never have I seen a broken one. The advantage is they look a heck of alot better than aluminum. The key is not to overtorque them. Torque spec is 33-35 INCH lbs.

NO FOREST FAIRIES(SKIERs)
BURN GAS SLEDS KICK AZZ!

TRIPLE-THE ONLY CHOICE!!!!!
'00 Indy Triumph
'93 XLT 580
'78 Arctic Cat Jag 3000
 

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I would stud it, but use square backers they are more stable, rounds are easy to install because you don't have to get them square with the track rounds are usually for 600 under sleds with less h.p.
 

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wise choice on machines. you will like it studded and you will not notice a loss in top speed! that sled has no top end it just keeps going.

i would use the studs they recomended but toss that template in the trash can. use the cutting tool for studs dip in a coffee cup with some dish soap every couple holes.

for the pattern use free hand if you want the v pattern fine. if you want a pattern that works use the worm or snake pattern. how a snake leaves an s pattern on the ground . with 192 studs you can put 3 inside the rails and one on everyother outside or 2 inside and 2 outside. but start at one side and for four rows move across the track to the other side and than the next four move back to the side you started with.

use a paint stick to practice with patterns before cutting. the more scratch lines you have the better your traction will be.

you should also get some 8 or 10 inch carbide.

if you are going to by a clutch kit for it let me know before you waste you money like i did.

nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks to "Polaris-Man" for his cogent reply and for getting things back "on track", and to "ACEXLT". Definitely going to use the advice and will attach a step-by-step of the install once it is complete.

Well, I am off to church, if I am going to be blazin' through the trees like Luke on a Speeder Bike, I am going to need that Gardian Angel. Thanks again guys...


'02 800 XCR
"Trust the Force"
 

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Discussion Starter #12
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>i would use the studs they recomended but toss that template in the trash can. use the cutting tool for studs dip in a coffee cup with some dish soap every couple holes.

for the pattern use free hand if you want the v pattern fine. if you want a pattern that works use the worm or snake pattern. how a snake leaves an s pattern on the ground . with 192 studs you can put 3 inside the rails and one on everyother outside or 2 inside and 2 outside. but start at one side and for four rows move across the track to the other side and than the next four move back to the side you started with.

use a paint stick to practice with patterns before cutting. the more scratch lines you have the better your traction will be.[/quote]

THANKS MADCOW. Great idea on the dishsoap. Same thing we use for getting into tight wakeboard and waterski bindings. Definitely intrigued by the pattern option...just a little concerned about interfearing with something if I waiver from the template. More research required!


'02 800 XCR
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remember when you stud on the outside lugs to leave a little bit of track dont stud right to the edge. same on the center when getting close to the windows leave a little space like an eighth or even a quarter inch. besides from that there will be no worrys. the coolers are above the windows or rails. good luck.

nothing goes like three holes!!!!!!!
 

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I've got plastic backers two. They don't brake. I've got the square ones on a 1996 600 ZRT, I just put them on, I ride with guy's that have them on 800 ZR twins, and we race in cold weather, and I've never seen one break, get the square one's, but make sure they are all square with the track. They look a lot better than aluminum backers. As for studs I reccomend 144 studs. Unless you race. If you race put 192, but remember the more you put on the outside, the harder it is to turn, but the dealer usually knows best, and you should get 5/16 diameter thread, with a 1 inch head or even a bigger head, and you need a special hollow bit.

If it ain't broke,
change stuff till it is.
 

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check out stud boys 168 pattern if you put a studs all the way up the sides its 192 i believe. the 168 works great though.
 

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Originally posted by mattgross
[br]i don't think you need studs except if you plan to be on ice, and a lot of people will say the help to stop, but one problem if people follow to close or don't slow down when they should be.

Matt have you rode your 800 yet? Those things on hard packed roads etc. Can really get away from you. Especially if you are an egressive rider. My buddy has a new 2002 mxz 800, Hes 30 and an agressive rider that weighs around 180lbs probably. He went around a corner and did a complete 360... I think on some thing that powerful studs are a saftey factor.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, I picked up the sled yesterday and had the pleasure of getting a lot of advice from one of the top 10 service techs in the US (based on a Polaris sponsored contest). He said that 192 studs was a starting point for this machine. Less than that and each individual stud will be carrying too much stress with this 150hp+ machine. When I meekly inquired about that many studs pushing through turns in the trails, he assured my that, with a properly adjusted rear supspension, that would not be an issue. He made it very clear that the rear suspension adjustments will totally change the way the sled rides whether a rocket ship on the track (weight back), or a loose tail weight on the skiis. If the suspension tuning doesn't get you there, he said you could then go to a longer carbide V on the skiis.

I am seriously considering putting all of the studs on the inside of the track - no studs on the outer edge - just seems like a bad idea to have the wheels constantly running on the backs of the studs. Might also give me a little more opportunity to rear steer out of the corners. Has anyone tried this[?]
 

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I am trying the same. I had 5 studs rip out from the sides. Track is getting tired, so I removed the remaining studs from the edge. Interested to see how it will handle.

CD
 

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It doesn't matter where you put the studs,the wheels will run over alot of them. The outer ones are not the only wheels. There either 1 or 2 more wheels in the back on the inside and and idler wheels inside. I know I would want at least every other one on the outside studded. The most likely reason studs would rip out is from over-torqing them. They should only be torqued to 30-32 INCH lbs.
 
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