if you have a template toss it in the trash. a track has 48 studs around so a 120 pattern should be 2-3-2-3-2-3 all the way around. if you want a v pattern do it free hand. the more scratch lines you have the better. on a 120 stud patter i would not put any on the outside of the windows. i personally like the worm pattern. start on the inside of a rail and put the 3 studs spaced a little bit on the next lug move in some on put 2 studs so they just miss the lines of the first 3 on the nest lug move in farther on the 4 set you should be almost to the otherside. you can worm back or start at the other side and go to the middle.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by madcow:
if you have a template toss it in the trash. [/quote]
I find it easier to get multiple scratch lines by using the template. We just picked my daughter's track, and used the template to make a pattern that repeats after every 12 lugs; that's almost as much of the track that is on the ground at a time. The template has a variety of scratch lines on each row; just take some time to think it through before you start.
if it repeats after 12 lugs and you use a 120 pattern you only have 30 scratch lines. if you do it free hand the chance of hitting the exact same line is pretty slim so in theory you could have 120 scratch lines. i am going to lift the rear of the sled and let it coast up and slow let the track nick the ice and see how many lines i do get.
I see what you're saying, but as long as the part of the track that is on the ground at any one time is not repeating, I would think that the rest is irrelevant. I think it would take more work/planning to ensure you're not repeating freehand than it would with the template; for me, anyway. JMHO. Oh yeah, we only used 96 picks; it's a 380 fan.
Double backers use regular studs. Backers have two holes (side by side) One backer holds two studs. My understanding is less track deflection, and a more rigid mounting.
144 studs though are limited to 72 mounting locations.
I am friends with Doug Dale (head or Tech and R+D at Woody's) and have ridden with the Mussleman's (Owners or Woodys). Their recomendations for studding, other than oval racing, is to run down the middle with 144 or less studs.
Their testing has shown that a stud in the outside belt will only provide about half the traction as one in the middle. Their is no weight out there to push down on it to make it penetrate.
I have been using the Woody's templat, and runnng 144 down the middle for the last few years on My MXZ800 and the Wifes XC600. It is a great setup. It has great forward accel, but it is not locked up going thru the corners. You can still throw the tail end around. Also a plus is you do not have to run a ton of carbide on the front. Keeps the steering light.
I posted this on another thread but I figured it would be goo to put it here too.
In the last 2 or 3 weeks, Woody's has revamped their stud patterns on their site along with the application guide. For my Triumph the guidelines were 96-120-144, they
are now 72-96-120. This must be due to what MMP says above.
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