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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gettn ready to start putting all the toys back together again, I know the purpose of picking your track, traction and braking. I plan on 2-3 pattern up the middle, is there a real reason for picking the outside of the track? Im just looking for a explanation, is to help with turning or just more traction? Thanks ya'll. Brian Lee[beatup]
 

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Picking the outside of the will help with both, but those are usually the ones that get torn out of the track first and end up shortening the life of the track.
 

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your track will blow 50% faster with studs on the outside, only do the inside bars.
 

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BrianLee said:
Gettn ready to start putting all the toys back together again, I know the purpose of picking your track, traction and braking. I plan on 2-3 pattern up the middle, is there a real reason for picking the outside of the track? Im just looking for a explanation, is to help with turning or just more traction? Thanks ya'll. Brian Lee[beatup]
The most common reason for studs tearing out of the outer belts is that they are either placed to close to the window or the outside edge, I have ran studs in the outside belts of all my tracks for years with very few pull outs, another problem is wildly spinning the track in not so good conditions and the studs come in contact with rocks or something hard frozen in the trail causing a tear our or pull through, stud placement and the amount used is also key, but never the less a stud in the main center belt can get ripped out just as easy but the track has more of a chance of surviving longer as a tear out in one of the outer belts can eventually lead to that row splitting and then of course the entire track ripping apart, I still have a track in my possession that I ran 192 stud in, 96 up the middle and 48 in each outside belt, over 7000 miles and not a single tear out, and I ruthlessly beat the snot out of this track on the trails and out on the ice with some chisels swapped in from time to time, of all tracks this one was you basic plain vanilla camoplast adventure 9753 full block 1 inch lug track, for the $325 I paid for it back in 2000 I guess you could say I got my moneys worth out of it.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The track that is on my RXL was picked before i bought it, its a 2-3 up hte middle and every other on the outside bars. The storm was done the same also. I am going to replace both tracks and was wondering about that. I will be running 1" ripsaws with either 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 inch stud boy pics and also its time for new carbides probally in 6" duallys. So if im understanding you right 98700xc go ahead and do the track up inside and outside and just be carefull on pic placement especially on hte outside bars....Thank you for the lesson and wisdom. Much appriciated!
 

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The track on my mxz met its makers when an outside stud pulled through, and ripped a huge chunk out of the side of it. The down side to studs is that you cannot whip shyties on the lake,
 

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BrianLee said:
The track that is on my RXL was picked before i bought it, its a 2-3 up hte middle and every other on the outside bars. The storm was done the same also. I am going to replace both tracks and was wondering about that. I will be running 1" ripsaws with either 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 inch stud boy pics and also its time for new carbides probally in 6" duallys. So if im understanding you right 98700xc go ahead and do the track up inside and outside and just be carefull on pic placement especially on hte outside bars....Thank you for the lesson and wisdom. Much appriciated!
Again, stud placement is a personal preference, so whether you put them all up the center or put some in the outside belts is solely up to you, another thing to consider is the type of backers that are used, I always used either the large woodys inch and a 1/4 backers or my personal favorites are the stud boy power plates with the rounded corners, also a note I have to add is the track that I pictured had stud boy 1.187's in it, there was near 1/2 inch of penetration above the lug, of course all the manufacturers say that 3/8 of an inch is as far above the lug that you should go or track failure will result, well I proved that wrong as like I said many many miles on that track with not one single pull or tear out, I did have this mishap happen though, but it wasn't due to a stud pull through or tear out, it was just this poor tracks time to go and when it went I was nearing the top end of a 660 run out on a lake, I got lucky and it didn't cause too much damage or punch any holes in my cooler strips, this was a stock polaris .91 track that had over 6000 miles on it when it blew.


20082592037825_8010.jpg

20082592033200_8010.jpg
 

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98700xc said:
BrianLee said:
The track that is on my RXL was picked before i bought it, its a 2-3 up hte middle and every other on the outside bars. The storm was done the same also. I am going to replace both tracks and was wondering about that. I will be running 1" ripsaws with either 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 inch stud boy pics and also its time for new carbides probally in 6" duallys. So if im understanding you right 98700xc go ahead and do the track up inside and outside and just be carefull on pic placement especially on hte outside bars....Thank you for the lesson and wisdom. Much appriciated!
Again, stud placement is a personal preference, so whether you put them all up the center or put some in the outside belts is solely up to you, another thing to consider is the type of backers that are used, I always used either the large woodys inch and a 1/4 backers or my personal favorites are the stud boy power plates with the rounded corners, also a note I have to add is the track that I pictured had stud boy 1.187's in it, there was near 1/2 inch of penetration above the lug, of course all the manufacturers say that 3/8 of an inch is as far above the lug that you should go or track failure will result, well I proved that wrong as like I said many many miles on that track with not one single pull or tear out, I did have this mishap happen though, but it wasn't due to a stud pull through or tear out, it was just this poor tracks time to go and when it went I was nearing the top end of a 660 run out on a lake, I got lucky and it didn't cause too much damage or punch any holes in my cooler strips, this was a stock polaris .91 track that had over 6000 miles on it when it blew.


20082592037825_8010.jpg

20082592033200_8010.jpg
Hmm, both side tears occured right where your studs got the closest to the windows.
Did you steal some studs for use in a different track, or were you running it without studs in that section ?
 

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2-3 pattern is not enough studs to need to go to the outside.

as you stud the outside it helps keep the machine straight on the ice, but can hinder steering on ice. up the middle is better for a trail sled.

i dont like studding on the outside unless you have a bunch of wheels out there, if you only have a couple wheels on the outside the only time that the stud out there will do anything is when its under a wheel. other wise the track can flex up and the stud doesnt bite.
 

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Hey Bro.... just pick the center of the track....worried about traction....with your fat ass on it you could push the picks thru cement....[Imaposer][Imaposer]
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I see you lurking ultrawillie, i didnt know the wife let you on hte computer so early in the morning....hahahahaha and thanks to Madcow for a trail vs race/drag pattern.
 

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BrianLee said:
I see you lurking ultrawillie, i didnt know the wife let you on hte computer so early in the morning....hahahahaha and thanks to Madcow for a trail vs race/drag pattern.
Talk to my parts guy no 133 for ya bro, but he said, "season hasn't started yet."[thumb]
 

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yeah just pick it up the middle like ultrawillie said. it will save you alot of trouble and you wont have to worry about the life of your track being decreased
 

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for pure ice its nice to use plates and put the studs right under the rails. 100% pure penetration!!

i like these backer plates! they can help make studs a little more aggressive for lake racing, BUT do take away some braking ability

http://hiperf.com/acatalog/Snowmobile_Parts____Angled_Double_Digger_SUP_TM__SUP__Plates____294.html


if you really want traction you can go to these plates, then you can get screw in carbide tipped. they may not be the best help in braking but you will launch harder than you ever thought possible if you had clean ice!!!
http://snowstuds.com/racingstuds_hauckerplates.html
 

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Here is a picture of my TXL, when i got the sled the track had all ready been drilled. So at a swap meet last week i picked up about 200 or so studs for 5 bucks, and put them up the middle.


Here is my 71 lynx track that we use for ice racing.

 

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MakingTheWinterGoByFaster said:
98700xc said:
BrianLee said:
The track that is on my RXL was picked before i bought it, its a 2-3 up hte middle and every other on the outside bars. The storm was done the same also. I am going to replace both tracks and was wondering about that. I will be running 1" ripsaws with either 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 inch stud boy pics and also its time for new carbides probally in 6" duallys. So if im understanding you right 98700xc go ahead and do the track up inside and outside and just be carefull on pic placement especially on hte outside bars....Thank you for the lesson and wisdom. Much appriciated!
Again, stud placement is a personal preference, so whether you put them all up the center or put some in the outside belts is solely up to you, another thing to consider is the type of backers that are used, I always used either the large woodys inch and a 1/4 backers or my personal favorites are the stud boy power plates with the rounded corners, also a note I have to add is the track that I pictured had stud boy 1.187's in it, there was near 1/2 inch of penetration above the lug, of course all the manufacturers say that 3/8 of an inch is as far above the lug that you should go or track failure will result, well I proved that wrong as like I said many many miles on that track with not one single pull or tear out, I did have this mishap happen though, but it wasn't due to a stud pull through or tear out, it was just this poor tracks time to go and when it went I was nearing the top end of a 660 run out on a lake, I got lucky and it didn't cause too much damage or punch any holes in my cooler strips, this was a stock polaris .91 track that had over 6000 miles on it when it blew.


20082592037825_8010.jpg

20082592033200_8010.jpg
Hmm, both side tears occured right where your studs got the closest to the windows.
Did you steal some studs for use in a different track, or were you running it without studs in that section ?
I had already starting taking out the studs in the center belt before I took these pictures, the track originally had 192 in it, I took every other one out on the outside belts, when this track blew up there were no tear outs anywhere in it, just the open holes where studs had been removed, and like I said this track came apart when I was lake racing, I pretty much figured the failure was due to age and that I may have been running it too tight, I'm just glad when this happened that it didn't split all the way across and spit out the back side as I was up around 90 MPH when it blew.
 

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i have 96 studs on my 800 and it doesnt hook up well so i want to add more, can i take them out of the outside section and put them and the new ones in the middle? will the drilled holes without studs cause problems?
 

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All this talk on were to put studs one of the most important things is your riding style and were you ride I don't think you can answer this with out knowing that..............
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorry, Madcow and Ultrawillie know me, i ride alot of ditches,some trails, on the river(Rock and lil Mississippi, and will be making more trips to Ultrawillies neck of the woods this year. There is also times that im stuck on snowy/icy gravel/dirt roads also. Its more of a safety stopping issue as im usually in ditches or fields. But enough of the others where stopping is also a concern. Thanks for pointing out my error in specifying riding places and style Kennybtrail1.
 

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PolarisPuglia said:
i have 96 studs on my 800 and it doesnt hook up well so i want to add more, can i take them out of the outside section and put them and the new ones in the middle? will the drilled holes without studs cause problems?
yes, you can put them to the inside and no the holes on the outside wont hurt.

i dont go to studs on the outside for a trial sled until i need to go past 192 count.

i dont like them on the outside since they dont help alot, and they are an easy tear out if you are spinning and snag something.

for studs, if you take them to a grinder and just get rid of the shoulder by the carbide. it only takes a couple seconds per stud, you cant let them get warm from the grinder or the soldier that holds the carbide in will get warm and let go. simply knock off that little lip. that will make a world of differnce in traction.
 
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