studs vs. aggresive track

1045 Views 18 Replies 10 Participants Last post by 2000TCMC, Nov 16, 2001

Titan01

Discussion Starter · Nov 13, 2001

Let me hear your comments on what I should do for a '98 XC600 with 2200 miles. It has the original track that is in good shape. I ride mostly trails and some bushwacking. I am trying to decide between spending $300 for studding it, or putting a Predator 1/1/4" track on it for $400. Give me your opinions, and opinions on what is the best aggresive track. Thanks alot.

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

ACG

· #2 · Nov 13, 2001

studs are nice, on trails and lakes and stuff. an agressive track would be nice for deeper softer snow but not so much on ice, it would be good on trails too. are u the kind of person for fast, quick, hold on or fall off acceleration? studs or the agressive track would be good, studs would have advantage on ice tho

Think Snow...hell...might as well think lots of snow!

Sled_Dog

· #3 · Nov 13, 2001

What kind of conditions do you ride on? Where do you ride? That track is for powder and mountain riding don't know how it would be on trails. For trail breaking(guess what you mean by bushwacking) paddle tracks are nice. Studs are largely a safety feature as well as a power additive. Studs help stopping and starting(aka hole shotting) on ice. They will help on dirt too btu in powder they woudl just be weight. And if you are breaking trail in a rocky area be prepared to replace a few and maybe a track if your not careful.

Burnin2StrokeOil

· #4 · Nov 13, 2001

id keep the un studded track that is on there right now and spend the other money for engine mods or some other sweeeeet stuff! my friend has a 96 formula stx 583, track with no studs and only .75 profile... when i ride it its great, ice it hauls, all trails it hauls, deeper snow... it starts to get stuck at 3 feet of powder... so save your mean green for some engine mods or backup cash for a broken ski or sumtin like that.... just my own 2cents

Duct tape much like the force... it has a light side, a dark side.... and it holds the world together!

Sled_Dog

· #5 · Nov 13, 2001

Engine mods huh? ice I wouldn't ride without studs. I WOULD NOT. It is just not safe man. You can't stop or turn right. A hard turn your sleds rear wents to go the other way you want to go. A buddy of ours almost died cause he didn't have studs.

Burnin2StrokeOil

· #6 · Nov 13, 2001

i dunno budddy... that stx 583 was alright without them.. whenever i rode it i never had a problem and hes never had a problem. but then again we dont haul ass and i've never had to stop hard... usually i can just avoid whatever is in trail we have really wide trails... i dunno who cares... throw 96 cheap studs in... spend like 150... give ya a lil stoppin power

Duct tape much like the force... it has a light side, a dark side.... and it holds the world together!

jbjbjb4

· #7 · Nov 14, 2001

I think you would benifit from the track more for your type of riding. But if the trails you ride get icy like the one's I ride I would go for the studs. Same goes if you ride a lot of lakes.

RtkatZL8

· #8 · Nov 14, 2001

If you ride mostly trails you will see an unbelievable difference with studs and the proper length carbides to match the # of studs. You don't even need real hard pack to notice the great difference in handling. Studs and carbides were the first upgrade I did to my 800 Cat last year. My Cat has a 1" variable lug height track and does alright in the powder but on the trails are where I can really fly.

RtkatZL8

intendedacceleration

· #9 · Nov 14, 2001

I have heard that the camaplast aggresive tracks can actually outperform a regular track studded. I hope this is true because that is what my Cat came with.....will see

2002 Arctic Cat ZR 800 EFI
1993 Polaris Storm 750
Piped and Clutched

paulxlt

· #10 · Nov 14, 2001

In my opinion, I would go with the studs, especially with these wild winters. They will help you grip the ice that forms on the hard packed snow. But it all depends on how you ride and where.

intendedacceleration

· #11 · Nov 14, 2001

You have to remember too that you can't go on paved trails with studs, and you usually have to pay bigger fee's as well. Not worth it IMO, but it may be for you.

2002 Arctic Cat ZR 800 EFI
1993 Polaris Storm 750
Piped and Clutched

Sled_Dog

· #12 · Nov 14, 2001

Actually the Saber WartHogs and TopDogs were tested on asphalt to see hwo they held up and they did well. I have never heard of or seen a paved trail either so. We ride roads in NY (aka paved roads with snow and ice) and never have problems.

2000TCMC

· #13 · Nov 14, 2001

Go with the track. If traction on ice seems to be a problem in the future you can always add stud later or Track Lug Studs. Which are lighter & less costly so long as you are not looking for off the line performace. More for safety from what I am hearing.

Sled_Dog

· #14 · Nov 15, 2001

I would never put track lug studs in my sled. They go on the flexiest part of your track and I could see one EASILY ripping right out of there. There isn't alot of material around those thigns. With that track about the only studs that would be effective would be real large chisel picks. I mean BIG. I believe you want about hmm .25 higher then your lug on your stud length. We run 1.175s in teh viper and my uncle with his ZR 800 has 1.25s on his 1" lug track. That would be 1.5" studs. I have never heard of those and if they exist they are prolly only in mad drag picks. Also that would be a lot of weight for that little motor with that large track and studs.

Edited by - Sled_Dog on November 14 2001 6:33:05 PM

RtkatZL8

· #15 · Nov 15, 2001

I've heard alot on this forum about unstudded tracks and how well they perform on trails. I can guarantee you if those sleds ran studs and carbides to match the people who sing the praise of unstudded sleds would be singing a different toon.
Studded and carbided sleds not only handle MUCH better, they are much safer on trails. Your control is much better when the sled goes in the direction the skiis are pointed.
My 800 has the Camoplast Aggressor 1" track. I rode it for about 400 miles before I made the investment in 192 and 10".
I'd like to see any similar unstudded sled try to keep up with me on the trails.
That is without coming around every turn on the wrong side of the trail and in the path of oncoming sledder's.
The aggressor track is nice but if riding trails, studding is the way to go

Oh, by the way I believe MN is the only state that charges more for their permits if your sled is studded.

Just my opinion.

RtkatZL8

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jbjbjb4

· #16 · Nov 15, 2001

I think MI also charges not sure about that though that is what I was told by a friend. I havn't riden there yet. If that is true it is only $5 more.

RtkatZL8

· #17 · Nov 15, 2001

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by jbjbjb4:

I think MI also charges not sure about that though that is what I was told by a friend. I havn't riden there yet. If that is true it is only $5 more.

[/quote]

I rode in MI last year and was not asked if my sled was studded.

RtkatZL8

wryjoker

· #18 · Nov 16, 2001

Studs are more effective than a deeper lug unless you are talking several inches of snow that is not packed in any such way, then the lug is worth more.

"Meaningless Ride"

2000TCMC

· #19 · Nov 16, 2001

The use of Track lug studs is for people like me who only on occaision run across a steep icy hill in the trail on the way to the powder. Don't do much trail riding but I though the extra traction might come in handy at times. Can't stud my 2" track. (There are other here with a lot more experience trail riding)

Member #2 of the Arctic Cat Mind Control Team

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