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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I JUST DID A TRACK SWAP. THE OLD TRACK WAS A POS SO I SWAPED IT OUT AND PUT IN A DURASPORT725, THE TRACK IS OFF A POLARIS AND IS IN GOOD SHAPE WITH STUDDS AROUND 60%. THE TRACK PROBABLY HASNT BEEN USED IN OVER 10 YEARS BUT WHEN I INSTALLED IT ON THIS YAMAHA IT ALL BOLTED UP GREAT AND SPINS BUT IT IS REALLY TIGHT EVEN WITH THE WHEELS IN THE REAR ALL THE WAY FORWARD. BOTH TRACKS WERE A 121" OR TO BE TECHNICAL ITS A 120.96" WHICH IS THE 121.

OVER THE TIME PERIOD OF THE TRACK SITTING COULD IT HAVE SWELLED UP MAYBE OR SHRUNK A LITTLE BIT?

I HAVE LOOKED AT THE SUSPENSION SO MANY TIMES TO THINK MAYBE SOMETHING COULD BE ADJUSTED BUT I DONT EVEN KNOW WHAT KIND OF SKID IS EVEN UNDER IT.

ANY IDEAS ON WHY THIS IS SO TIGHT OR TO HELP IDENTIFY HOW THE SUSPENSION IS PUT TOGETHER WOULD BE GREAT. EVEN IF I HAVE TO PLAY WITH THE STRAPS AND BOLTS UNDER THIS THING.

WOULD BE NICE IF I HAD A DIAGRAM TO GO OFF OF TOO.

ALSO LOOKING FOR A REPAIR MANUAL FOR THIS THING OR EVEN A OWNERS MANUAL.
 

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Caps lock off please.
A picture is worth a thousand words (for the suspension ID).
I'm not exactly buying the notion that tracks can swell or shrink from sitting. I have tracks sitting outside in the elements all year round and none of my customers come back saying the track has shrunk and won't fit.
Have you done the 10-pound weight test? You say it spins but is really tight. That sounds about right to me, when the track is off the ground you should be able grab the track and spin it by using a little effort
 

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I was always told kevlar track actually shrink when put into use, not sure if there is any truth to that though.

A picture of your current set up will help a lot, go snap a few and come back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
sorry bad pics but thats the picture of the track that i put in and the suspension upside down. i can take a pic of it on the sled in a bit and post it.

i never put a string across the bottom and and took a lbs tester on it. i can do that tomorrow. teh track is so tight i can barely move it. when i raise the back of the sled up and spin the track it moves of course but it slows and stops really fast on its own. the rear wheels are all the way forward.



201087193720689_11412.jpg
201087193732377_11412.jpg


i just went out and took some pics so here is the track on the snowmobile complete.

so what do you think?
 

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MicahMan said:
teh track is so tight i can barely move it. when i raise the back of the sled up and spin the track it moves of course but it slows and stops really fast on its own. the rear wheels are all the way forward.
Well I don't know crap about Yamahas, so I can't help you ID the suspension.
From what you say is happening, I don't see any problem. When the the track is off the ground, you should be able to spin the track by using your hand. As soon as you stop applying force, it should stop almost immediately. If the track keeps moving after you stop applying force to it, either friction no longer exists on Earth (this would be a bad thing) or the track is REALLY loose.

EDIT: When I say the track needs to be off the ground, I mean the sled needs to be on a track stand, so there is zero pressure on track. The cinder blocks under your sled are going to add pressure to the track.

When you say the track is so tight you can barely move it... what do you mean? Like you can't pull down on the center of the track between the rails? It is suppose to be like that, there should only be some freeplay/sag there before it won't stretch any further
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
1. i lift the ass end up with my cherry picker so everything hangs.
2. i can barely fit one finger between the slides and the track when it is hanging,
3. i am a pretty strong guy and it is hard for me to spin the track around.
4 when the sled is up in the air (on the cherry picker) and you start the sled and enguage the the track and pin it and let off the track stops almost right away.

i have done a few tracks already and rule of thumb on polaris is 2 fingers. this is my first yamaha and it is just not rite. it should be very loose when the adjusters are loose and with these adjusters on the rear wheels all the way loosend i should be able to tighten it up to snug the track to how it is suposed to be. i have no room to loosen the track up anymore.

both tracks are 120.96's which is a 121" and the skid was just removed and re installed the same way it came out. i adjusted nothing except the rear wheels.

this is why i cant figure it out
 

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Thats the factory vmax suspension. They are horrible about idler bearings freezing up. The last one i dropped had over half the wheels locked up or horribly stiff. Also, the rear shaft is a fairly tight fit, so after loosening the adjusters, make sure to use a mallet or something to pound the rear shaft forward.
 

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take a close look at the front of the rear shock mounting point. that should be standing leaning forward slightly, not compressed under the rear of the front skid shock. key on this with the picture taker and show me so i can give a better evaluation. betting that that front of rear pivot point rotated forward, creating the bindage. there is enough adjustment in the skid to compensate for any track deviation, so this is not a concern. the skid is not installed correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Geiger said:
Thats the factory vmax suspension. They are horrible about idler bearings freezing up. The last one i dropped had over half the wheels locked up or horribly stiff. Also, the rear shaft is a fairly tight fit, so after loosening the adjusters, make sure to use a mallet or something to pound the rear shaft forward.
i did use a chissle and a mallet to push that rear wheelshaft all the way forward. we replaces 1 wheel and two bearings as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the first picture shows that where the front of the rear shock is leaning forward like it is suposed to. it is not touching the front shock or under the front shock at all.

i was also told that the front shock on the top pivot point, that could have spun around but i looked at many different photo's and it looks like it is where it is suposed to be so i snaped a picture of that too.

tell me what you think.
 

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it looks to me on the first pic the scissor at the front of the rear shock is leaning too far forward. front shock looks correct. just for clarity, when you re-installed the skid, did you bolt up the front of the skid first, leaving the 2 bolts on either side of the tunnel loose, then install the rear brackets with the three bolts on each side? have you measured the track to verify 2.52" from center to center of the drive lugs? there were some odd ball pitched tracks out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
snowdad4 said:
it looks to me on the first pic the scissor at the front of the rear shock is leaning too far forward. front shock looks correct. just for clarity, when you re-installed the skid, did you bolt up the front of the skid first, leaving the 2 bolts on either side of the tunnel loose, then install the rear brackets with the three bolts on each side? have you measured the track to verify 2.52" from center to center of the drive lugs? there were some odd ball pitched tracks out there.
the track is 2.52" and i bolted the rear in place first, then i bolted the front. i used a ratchet strap to pull the skid back to align the holes. works like a charm.

also i wanted to say that there is clearance between the front and rear shock and everything pivots just fine. thats why this is starting to irritate clarson6587 n i. i can take more pictures if needed. i know that his shocks need to be rebuilt, but i dont believe that is the factor on why the track is so tight.

i can hop on the sled and the suspension works fine just that the track is so tight.
 

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something sure doesnt add up. what i would do is drop the suspension back out. check it out of the sled for full range of motion. although you state it works now, it may be preloaded and your only compressing the last bit of the suspension. as suspensions compress and extend, the track will loosen and tighten proportionately. seems as simple as the suspension may be loaded now. to rule out the suspension, re-install it bolting the front arm first and then install the rear portion of the skid and see what happens. worth a shot. have you verified that the old track was actually a 121 and are the drivers seated properly in the lugs on the new track?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
snowdad4 said:
something sure doesnt add up. what i would do is drop the suspension back out. check it out of the sled for full range of motion. although you state it works now, it may be preloaded and your only compressing the last bit of the suspension. as suspensions compress and extend, the track will loosen and tighten proportionately. seems as simple as the suspension may be loaded now. to rule out the suspension, re-install it bolting the front arm first and then install the rear portion of the skid and see what happens. worth a shot. have you verified that the old track was actually a 121 and are the drivers seated properly in the lugs on the new track?
i will try to rebolt it up in there today. the tracks are the same length i measured both 3 times now cause i was thinking the same thing. the track that came out of it is absolutly shot.

thanks for the advice, i will let you know how it goes
the drivers and the track are aligned properly.
 

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i just looked at the service manual, dont know what difference it makes, but it specifies mounting the front of the skid first, then the rear. maybe something to that. good luck. sure its just a minor oversight somewhere. i have had similar problems in the past and sometimes just rethinking or standing back and taking another approach makes all the difference. again, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yeah thanks i will do that. it was just easier mounting it from the back to front cause yamaha has this goofy design where 3 bolts hold the rear bracket that mounts to the skid and the bolt to the skid is under the bracket. and its easier trying to align one bolt than 3 under some pressure and trying to do it yourself. i will go and mount it from the front to the back and se if it makes a differance.

thanks again

after we get this yami done i have to do needle n seats on my 650 and put fresh gas in her and adjust the choke cables. they been giving me trouble. wanna get the polaris out of mothballs lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok so i removed the skid and rebolted it in from the front then the back. didnt do much. i know CLARSON6578 took some pics of it after we did it. the arms are in the right position SNOWDAD4.

think we are going to wait till the snow is flyin and take it out back and rip around on it in the snow and check it after we tear it up a bit and just keep checking it till it loosens up. we are preparing to put new slides on it if we burn them up. if that dont work i have a rear skid from my polaris i can throw in it, that should work.
 

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it did loosen up a little so like micahman said were going to let it sit and hopefully it will streatch a little.i also called a dealier and he told us it should loosen up alil after driveing it a little bit hope so lol or were in for bigger problems lol hope not! thanks for all the input and advice much appericated!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yeah either that or we might have to dro0p in my polaris skid in it to make it work if it doesnt loosen up
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
does anyone know the actual name for this skid?
 
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