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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondered whats best to use to break in an engine i will be using synthetic afterbreak in but i've heard on a couple sites that you should break in with normal oil then after 2 tanks use the synthetic. By the way i'm planning on running HP Injector from Amsoil on the new motor(Its also going to be premix not injected), Any thoughts or suggestions.
 

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Run regular oil for break in. Synthetic oil lubricates to well and does not allow the rings to break in properly.

Not sure if 2 tanks would be necessary, but it definetely doesn't hurt it.
 

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Agreed. Make sure that engine sees WOT within about 20 miles if you want to do it right.
 

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don't hold it at wide open throttle though, vary the throttle, break in should be around 500 miles or so. Run mineral oil until that time, for me it was 1 gallon of oil, also if it is a brand new sled, you should run premix for the first tank of gas, doing so will ensure your getting oil to the motor. the oil system should have been bleed but you never really know for sure. just my .02
 

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WOT is needed to FULLY seat the rings. If you go easy even for a few hundred miles you will be wondering why you have so much blow by on your pistons. WOT is the only way to make sure you do not have blow by.
I have done this and have seen the difference.
Checkout: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm this has been discussed here before.
 

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What he meant is don't hold it wide open for extended periods of time.
 

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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
exactly what I meant!
 

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If youre running only premix, then you should prob run 20:1 or 25:1. When you buy a new sled they say run oil in gas as well as the 50:1 from the injector.

As far as the oil, the HP Injector oil is pretty thin stuff, its actually designed to run in an oil injection system, thus the lower viscosity. You would prob be better off running Interceptor, or Dominator race oil.
 

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I know this has gone around before, but I love the idea of a "good conversation". If you really believe a synthetic oil won't allow rings to set properly, why would auto manufacturer's put synthetic oil in $100,000, 300+ HP automobiles straight from the factory?

Another thing to consider, when I bought my F150, back in 1998, I monitored gas mileage for every tank of gas for the first couple of years. I figured that when gas mileage plateaued, the engine was fully broken in and that would be a good time to switch to synthetic oil. It took 15,000 miles for gas mileage to plateau.

So if it takes that long to break in an engine, I would think just passing a tank or two of mineral oil before switching to synthetic would be inssuficient.

FWIW, I started out using synth because that's what Doo said to do. They changed their minds a year later and now I use a blend. I also used synth in my 600xc and Indy 500. More because i could get it from a friend for dealer cost than anything else. Other than the possibility of fouling plugs and cleaning valves, it's not a subject I get too excited about.
 

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Dont most new sleds come from the factory with synthetic oil already added? I say run synthetic and a little oil in the gas for first few miles. And ride it whatever way you plan on riding it for the life of the sled. An engine babied for the breakin wont perform as well. I form this opinion from personal experience and from experiences of friends with new sleds. Had a friend buy a new sled and he took it easy for the first 500miles. It didnt perform near aswell as he expected.
 

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I run what ever is in tha tank and then switch over to what I want. I also run it the way I am going to ride. I hit WOT breifly but hit it.
 

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Originally posted by Luke
You would prob be better off running Interceptor, or Dominator race oil.
I agree plus the HP is not JASO FC, API TC certified like Dominator
and Interceptor is,AMSOIL's Saber(ATP)is good too thats JASO FD certified actually a little better than FC....[:)]

HP can be used but it's really certified best for watercraft use,hence the "TC-W3" cerification..

My self i use Interceptor only,,good stuff..
 

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Originally posted by Offshore24
[br]I know this has gone around before, but I love the idea of a "good conversation". If you really believe a synthetic oil won't allow rings to set properly, why would auto manufacturer's put synthetic oil in $100,000, 300+ HP automobiles straight from the factory?

Another thing to consider, when I bought my F150, back in 1998, I monitored gas mileage for every tank of gas for the first couple of years. I figured that when gas mileage plateaued, the engine was fully broken in and that would be a good time to switch to synthetic oil. It took 15,000 miles for gas mileage to plateau.

So if it takes that long to break in an engine, I would think just passing a tank or two of mineral oil before switching to synthetic would be inssuficient.

FWIW, I started out using synth because that's what Doo said to do. They changed their minds a year later and now I use a blend. I also used synth in my 600xc and Indy 500. More because i could get it from a friend for dealer cost than anything else. Other than the possibility of fouling plugs and cleaning valves, it's not a subject I get too excited about.
You are correct, they come with rings that are supposedly able to break in with Synthetic. As long as the rings are lapped they can be run with synthetic.

However, being that I have no idea what kind of sled Brendan has and not real sure if sled rings come even come lapped, figured play it safe and run regular at first. This is what I would do anyways.

As for the break in period. When you buy a new sled from the factory they say to run one tank of gas through it before running them hard to allow break in. Rings don't take as long to break in as the bearings.

For vehicles, it is recommended to run regular oil until the first oil change to allow piston rings to break in, not full break in. Unless of course they have lapped rings.

Ever wonder why Doo changed their mind? I doubt it was for the hell of it.

*edit* - I should add that a few years back now, a company made rings that supposedly were able to break in without honing the cylinders...didn't work so well. They may have saved some money from not having to hone, but think of the cost from the rings not breaking in.

So you save a little in gas, you pay a little more for synthetic, but why risk not breaking in the rings to get a little better gas mileage...Just doesn't pay off IMO.
 

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I think Doo was having troubles with ring flaking and fouling. They found the blend was probably protetcting somewhat better or fouling less. Don't know for sure but there was lots of speculation. I've fouled a couple sets of plugs in 3,800 miles with my SDI. First set I did, the second my buddy did riding like a grandpa for a couple of hours on my sled. Normal riding on trail and off has never foulded a plug on my sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well i can say i've learned alot about oil from this post thanks a million guys, so what kinda oil should i run tell the engines broken in any suggestions, All i've got left lieing around my place is castrol 2 stroke oil i'm not afraid to run out and buy some but just wondered if this is good enough for now, not that i'm against castrol but i've had bad luck with engines i've run it in so far lol. Thanks guys lots of great info[:)], any other tips or info??
 

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Maybe this should be answered first. Guess I should have asked that right away.

What year and model sled do you have? What oil does the manufacturer recommend to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Its an old Ski-doo 250, i've got through a couple pistons over the last couple years i drive it too hard, but love the lightness of the sled, anyway i've put in a spx piston all new bearings and seals and am willing to try some better oil to see if the longivity of this motor lasts and its worth the money, its a great sled for work and play even thought its only a single.
 

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I'd say definitely run regular oil in it for a couple of tanks. If you still want to run synthetic after that, go for it.

Then again I've been saying that since the beginning, guess we will have to see what Offshore says. [:p]


*edit* - Personally I wouldn't even run synthetic in it considering the size and age. I don't think much would be gained.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I guess i'm not looking for the best oil just an oil that will preform abit better and stick to moving parts at high rpms so the engine doesn't sustain as much wear. What other types of oil could i look into running? Is the HP Injector good enough to run as a premix? I'm sure theres better( ie amsoil interceptor/dominator oil) or is it actaully going to be that great of an adverse affect from running the HP injector since its thinner viscosity??
Hopefully this makes sense to you guys, i really appreciate you guys shedding some light on this for me!
 

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Its not that the hp oil wont work well, its just that the interceptor/dominator/or saber amsoils for instance will work a little better.
Plus the hp costs more than the others.
 
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