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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have called every shop in town including the local Aveonic repair shops and no one has the equipment to calibrate my tach. Is there somewhere that i can send it to get it calibrated. Can't see wasting my money on all the mods I did if i can't get the power to the ground. Can't get the power to the ground if I don't know the actual rpm's my motor is turning.
 

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i just seen a place that does it too for 20.00 bucks but i cant seem to remeber who. let me see if i can find it kwik for ya.[8D]
 

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here it is mcb performance 20 bucks plus shipping. 810-395-7162 web site is www.mcbperformance.com go to there web site then to there shop services. and its at the bottom of that page. [8D]
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Odoa4,
Yep, them and Norther lights Aveonics AK power sports Anch Suzuki, Eagle river Polaris A/C Merrill Field instrument repair etc. etc.

Fett Bros will do it for $18 so thats where I'm going to send it. There closer being in MN than MCB which I think is in MI.

They will also calibrate it with my choice of RPM point straight up. So I am going to have them calibrate it with 8500 straight up. That way I will just have to glance at my tach to see if I'm under or over revving the motor
 

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Did you try talking to the guys at High Profromance Auto? They might know someone in town that can do it. I can't believe that there is nobody in town that can do it.[V]
 

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If you have a digital multimeter that has a frequency reading you can calibrate it yourself.
Look on the tach and see if it is a 2, 4, or 6 pulse tach. Then probe the same leads as the tach gets its signal from. The reading you get should be divided by either 2, 4, or six depending on the alternator output.
The backside of the tach should have a small hole for a screwdriver; just adjust the screw so the tack reads the same as the corrected frequency of the multimeter.
It’s really quite simple, give it a try.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Erick thanks for the info, I may just need to find a digital multimeter. I know that it is a 6 pulse tach.
So your saying all I need to do is run my sled at say 8500 get the pulse data do the math and adjust accordingly. Sounds way to easy, but what the heck I'll check it out.
 

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I don't think you need to redline your sled to get a reading on the multimeter. Can't you just calibrate it at idle speed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tachs generally come calibrated at around 5000 rpm. so your mid range is pretty accruate but, I want it to be accurate at 8500 thats not redline just where my sled makes the most power. I can calibrate it at 8000 and it won't be off more than 25-50 rpm at peak power, thats what I think I'm going to do.
Gonna make sure its sitting real solid on the stand. take a couple of extra precautions. I don't want to watch my sled fall off the stand and go through my neihbors house at 100
 

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I thought tachs could be calibrated without the sled running? Is that what you're talking about Erik?
 

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If you have a way to make the signal you can calibrate without the sled.

If you don't have a way to create the signal on the bench you can run your sled and use a meter to measure the frequency and divide by 6 and get what the rpms really are and compare to the tach.

The reason why you would need to run it up to peak rpm is because tachs are not accurate everywhere on the dial. If you calibrate the tach to be dead on at idle it will likely be several hundred rpm off where you are clutching.

2000TCMC also found out that the accuracy of the tach also depends on how it is mounted as well. I mount my tach so that target RPMS is always straight up so that I don't have to spend any time reading it. One quick glance at my dash and needle to the left is underrev and needle to the right is overrev.

IMO, good clutching is the cheapest HP you can buy.
 
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