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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm changing out the helix in my Team Secondary clutch on my '06 Fusion 700.

Now I have been looking into this for sometime now and have found out what is working good and what other people are using, I have found I have a few questions.

Most people find the Team 420719 helix to work good in my sled, the first track is 66-44-42 and the second track is 70-46-42, both have the same track type which is .46/.25/.25.

I know that has to do with the angle of the track, but what each number means I'm not sure of, any light on the subject would be great.

The stock helix is the Team 420732 first track 62-42 and the track type is .46 and the second track is 58-42 and track type is .36.
Why with this helix have some of the numbers disappeared, why only one number for track type when three were need before and why only 2 numbers of track when there were three on the other one?
 

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The .00 number is the duration of each angle. I use a #719 which is simular to the 720. I have no reverse so no reverse detent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thank you xcr440 that was very helpful.

So the detent at the base of I guess what would be the outside part of the clutch next the the airbox on your sled or the engine on mine is the electronic reverse part of the clutch allowing it to spin backwards with out opening the clutch and making the belt lose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
^^^^Why does the spring bind up?
 

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No spring binding issue if you have the CCW wound spring. Which you should have.

6600 miles on my team, no washers and the bearing is tight.
Yes the detent in the helix is for reverse, which I don't need(detent) since I don't have perc.
 

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It seems like Driftpounder's question is answered, so I just want to ask if the Team Roller clutch is as easy to service and work on as a button clutch? What do you have to do differently?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
^^^^That is also a good question, and I'm now wondering the samething myself.
 

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driftpounder said:
^^^^That is also a good question, and I'm now wondering the samething myself.
You don't have yours apart yet?
 

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Rubi said:
It seems like Driftpounder's question is answered, so I just want to ask if the Team Roller clutch is as easy to service and work on as a button clutch? What do you have to do differently?
very easy. Torx bit to remove the helix, a small press or threaded rod to compress the roller assembly. As it is under ALOT on pressure. easier than the button, not that the button is hard either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Rubi said:
Quote originally posted by driftpounder

^^^^That is also a good question, and I'm now wondering the samething myself.


You don't have yours apart yet?

No I don't have it off the sled yet even, that won't be for another we or so before I get a chance to.
 

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xcr440 said:
Rubi said:
It seems like Driftpounder's question is answered, so I just want to ask if the Team Roller clutch is as easy to service and work on as a button clutch? What do you have to do differently?
very easy. Torx bit to remove the helix, a small press or threaded rod to compress the roller assembly. As it is under ALOT on pressure. easier than the button, not that the button is hard either.
How does the threaded rod work? (I've never had mine apart, so I'm not too familiar with it.)
 

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You get a long rod with 2 nuts and 2 washers. big enough to not slide into the shaft but small enough to allow you to remove the snap ring. I just coughed up the money to get the slp press.

http://www.erlandsonperformance.com/diane/new/SLED-polaris.php

http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=24&productID=227
 
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