[DaveMartin]

i have some work to do to my sled, and i'm a bit stumped on how to get started. just so you know, i'm working on my 93 mxz chassis with the 97 440cc LC. so anyhow, i need to make this thing capable of climbing some steeper hills in some deeper snow. you are probably wondering why i would want to do such a thing to this sled. why not get another one? well, i don't have a lot of cash to work with, thats why. however, i do have a bunch of great tools for doing mods to my sled, including a welder.

so anyhow, i know i'm going to need more track. apparently there is a guy not far from here that is good with lengthening tracks, so thats how i'm gonna take care of that problem. the next thing i see that needs to be done, is lifting the front end. there isn't much clearance under this thing. my old tundra has more clearance under the font end. i have a few ideas about how to do this, but i was wondering if there is an easy, standard way that people ussually lift the front end. thanks for any help you might have.


dave m

93 mxz chassis w/97 440cc LC.
old tunda w/377cc

 

[ripperd]

Here are the most important factors in mountain riding

power (clutching)
track attack angle (the shallower the better)
track length
track lug height
track speed (gearing and clutching) (higher=more climbing power)


-Dean

-
let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.

 

[DaveMartin]

thanks. good to know the basics. when you talk about track attack angle do you mean that the flatter your track travels through the snow the better? that makes sense. you would get maximum contact with the ground that way right? my sled rides more like a snowplow right now. as soon as i get into anything deeper than 8", i'm just sliding along on the bellypan and the runners that you stand on. as soon as i point it up a hill in the powder, its a hard climb to say the least. so anyhow, if i put more track under my sled, i'm guessing that the back end is going to sit a bit higher. with that in mind, wouldn't i want to raise the front end to match the height of the rear end? and in any case, wouldn't it be better for weight distribution? not to mention that i could go through some deeper snow without dragging the underside of my sled along the way?

dave m

93 mxz chassis w/97 440cc LC.
old tunda w/377cc

 

[Flange]

My two cents:
When the power is applied, the rear end tends to drop, so stiffening your rear suspension may help keep the running boards off of the snow when hillclimbing.

Angle of attack refers to the front end of the track. As you mentioned, the shallower this angle is, the more track you'll have on the ground and the better the sled floats.

Try to maximize the clearance between the track and the tunnel. This allows the snow to clear easier and doesn't rob you of power.

Weight is a killer too. Like ripperd2 says, no subsitute for power. This helps to offset the weight issue...along with the beer gut and second helpings at the dinner table! Pipes, reeds, heads....how much money do you have again (LOL)?

I've never had issues with front end height so I can't help ya there. Adjusting the front limiter strap may help. Loosen it to allow the front end to lift. This can, however, affect handling so be careful.

Where r u planning on riding?

Flange

 

[razorsharp]

If the snow is real deep you'll be riding on the belly pan anyway.

You don't have to believe everything you think!

 

[DaveMartin]

i ride in the interior of bc. i live in salmon arm, so we ride anywhere from kamloops to sicamous, and we are planning a few trips to the coquihalla, and the west kootneys this year. too make a long story short, we get into some pretty deep and steep stuff. i guess i will leave the front end alone for now. that little sled acctually does pretty good as it is. i get a lot of surprised looks from people when they see my little 440 mxz on a 121 track on top of a steep face, or cruising through the powder. it gets me where i need to go, but not much more than that. the longer track should make it a bit more fun.

so anyway, how much should i expect to pay for a used 1.5"x136" track? i have seen quite a range in prices. also, can i use a track from another sled manufacturer?

and one last question for today.... what are your opinions on those brackets that you can use to lift your rear suspension? does it work well, or does it just mess up the attack angle?

thanks for all your help guys.


dave m

93 mxz chassis w/97 440cc LC.
old tunda w/377cc

 

[Flange]

Sorry Dave, but I can't help ya. I've never had anything to do with the mods your talking about.

Flange

 

[Alaskangold]

The only reason you need drop brackets is if you will be running a 2" lug, if you get the 1.5 or even 1.75 in some cases you won't need the brackets. They will tweak your AOA but not really enough to matter since you'll have the bigger lugs, if it were me with that sled I would just stretch it to a 136 with the 1.5" lugs.... That should give a little more help in the deep, oh and don't forget to regear!!!!

 

[Riley]

If I were going to add a 136 in. track on a 440 cc sled I would go with a 1.25 in lug height. I think the 1.5 in. would be too much track fir the 440. Riley

good day

 

[razorsharp]

You could gear it down to run a higher profile track, but I don't think you'll like it because you loose to much top end. I put a 2" track on a sled a few years ago.... had to roll the chaincase and gear down. It climbed like crazy, but had a 65mph top end for a 600 cc.

I'ld stay with a 1-1.25" profile and you should like it.

You don't have to believe everything you think!

 

[DaveMartin]

thanks for the info guys. my 121 track has 1.5" lugs right now. do you really think that 15" of more track and a different gear is gonna slow me down that much? my sled tops out at about 65mph right now, but the trails around here are way too windy to go that fast anyway. we ussually don't go any faster than 50mph. if i lose 10mph off my top speed i wouldn't really care. i just want to be able to drop over the backside of a mountain and not have to leave my sled back there ontill spring before i can ride it back out. (this almost happened to me last season)

93 mxz chassis w/97 440cc LC.
old tunda w/377cc

 

[Flange]

Travelling forward at 65mph, and 65mph track speed climbing a mountain are two very different things. I'm of the belief that track speed is very important when climbing. If your only going to get 50mph with a longer track, I don't think your going to climb much better than you are now with the shorter track and 65mph track speed. Of course I'm assuming your WFO at the bottom! If your not, you should be!

Flange