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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's going on?
I'm swapping my Walker Evans from my 03 Pro-X 7 to my 03 Pro-X 8 & of course the last bolt refuses to come out. We've loosened the spring up, done everything we can think of to remove the tension, oiled it up, hit with a hammer (tried wood & screw driver in-between so we wouldn't damage the thread) & nothing. When we turn the bolt the shock bushing turns as well & damn near if not all the tension is removed & it won't budge, literally. Do any of you have any other methods other than cutting it off? Thank you.
 

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If you have a welder that would work best. Not to cut it with the torch head, but heat it up until its glowing read. Blow torches might work if you have two or three of them, but they cant match the heat of an Acetylene torch. This is how I get bolts off of cars and trucks, it might take a few tries of heating up and working the bolt, but it has to be GLOWING red.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
JEEPS101 said:
If you have a welder that would work best. Not to cut it with the torch head, but heat it up until its glowing read. Blow torches might work if you have two or three of them, but they cant match the heat of an Acetylene torch. This is how I get bolts off of cars and trucks, it might take a few tries of heating up and working the bolt, but it has to be GLOWING red.
I don't have a welder but I do have a blow torch. Does the whole bolt have to be heated evenly or can I just heat up one end of it? Thanks.
 

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If you just have a torch you should defiantly just heat the part you can get too, it will take longer with a torch, if you can get another one from someone that would help, but usually just the end of the bolt will do the heat will transfer all the way through that you dont have to worry about. Let me know if it works.
 

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You will probably ruin your bushing using the torch, i would agree with pressing it out if at all possible
 

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pressing it out would work the best. I remember on a dozer in boces this one bolt we had to use dry ice to get it out and put it back in. how about map gas that is not as hot as an Acetylene but I have used it on bolts and it works pretty good. I use torches on stuff that is not important
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well it looks like pressing it out has majority & sounds good to me. There's a press at work, I just hope all goes well & the shock mounts stay straight. Thank you all for the suggestions.
 

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spay the bolt with penatrating oil, let it sit for 30 seconds, then try to turn it with a wrench, if it doesnt budge, wigle it as best as possible. keep spraying more penatration oil, and hit the head of bolt hard with a hammer, dont worry about the bolt threads. buy a new bolt for $0.99.
 

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penetrating oil and a hammer. get a new bolt. let it set for more than 30seconds. more like over night or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
jesse500 said:
spay the bolt with penatrating oil, let it sit for 30 seconds, then try to turn it with a wrench, if it doesnt budge, wigle it as best as possible. keep spraying more penatration oil, and hit the head of bolt hard with a hammer, dont worry about the bolt threads. buy a new bolt for $0.99.
MicahMan said:
penetrating oil and a hammer. get a new bolt. let it set for more than 30seconds. more like over night or so.
Now that sounds like an option worth trying. The press idea is a good idea & will be used if this one doesn't work, definitely less invasive then removing the trailing arm/ect. Thanks for the info.
 

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The bolt gets chemically welded to the inside of the bushing from corrosion. Once they're stuck, they're stuck. I don't think that the thin metal that the lower shock mount is made of will withstand the heat of an acetylene torch in such close proximity without weakening. I've always had to resort to sawing through the bolt and bushing with a Sawzall on the inside of the shock mount. I have no experience with a press, but I know it is nearly impossible to get the bolt out of the bushing with anything I've tried. Once I've sawed the bolt and bushing out, I've put the remaining piece in the vise and tried to get the bolt out just out of curiosity. Couldn't get it to budge a micron, even after soaking it in penetrating oil for several days. I tried freezing it outside to about fifteen below zero, and then heating the bushing to get it to expand. Still the bolt wouldn't come out by pounding on it with a two and a half pound hammer and punch in the vise.

Experiencing this same frustration several times now has led me to add removing all of these bolts and bushings for greasing to my list of regular maintainence. I also replaced the bolts with chrome plated or stainless steel ones. I'm hoping that might help too.
 

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Id still try the heat anyway, It can be tricky, but I was doing some brakes last weekend and the piece that allows the break pads to float in and out has a rubber boat over it. There is also a rubber piece on the inside. (forget the actual name of this piece) I was able to heat the metal on the outside and turn the frozen piece till it was out. I did this without melting the rubber boot. You have to have a vice grip or something on it while heating. Once its almost to the point of melting the rubber you gotta start wrenching on it. It was a 50/50 shot. I ended up unfreezing it without melting the rubber.
 

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fusionshuk06 said:
you dont want to heat the bolt that will make the bolt bigger and not want to come out
When we do that we let it cool down first.
 

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ive done many of these. and what i do always have worked. i use zep45 and overnight it can stull be a lil tough but come off with hammering it out. just ge a new bolt and yes chrome plated or stainless is beter than just aregular bolt. just did one on my 89 indy 650. good luck with any of these ideas but if you heat it up and get it out use a new bolt not the heated bolt.
 

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Agree with Rubi. Sawzall is best option. It's a wonderful tool. You just have to make sure you get on the inside of the mount. I've tore apart around 20 sleds, it takes a VERY meticulously owned sled to not have rusted bushings on the front suspension. I think there is only one sled where I didn't have to use the Sawzall.
 

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invest in an easy out bit for bout 2 bucks, does cost more then a bolt would, but you would probably be able 2 save the 1 dollar bolt
 

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Actually I didnt even think about easy outs, I have actually used them quite a few times, its only not worked once and for the cost of one 5$ or so around here It will save you a lot of headaches. GOOD CALL DODGE!
 
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