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Discussion Starter #1
well, i finally got to ride my sled since last winter. to my suprise after flushing the cooling system, my temp light still comes on. ive "burped" it, to insure the coolent was throughout the system. ive already come to the conclusion that its not the head gasket since it was replaces under 200miles ago. so my question is, could it be the temp sensor? could it be shorting out? also what is the temp that the light kicks in at?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the water pump belt is also in perfect working condition
 

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I don't think the Indy 500 has a thermostat does it?

Have you tried lifting the front of your sled while it's running to get the coolant to circulate? Are all hoses getting hot, are heat exchangers under the running boards warming up?
 

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Originally posted by radianguy
[br]I don't think the Indy 500 has a thermostat does it?

Have you tried lifting the front of your sled while it's running to get the coolant to circulate? Are all hoses getting hot, are heat exchangers under the running boards warming up?
Yeah, I think I remember about different hole sizes in the gasket or something else. I was thinking about the termostat as mine did exactly the same thing last year, my fault. But as the bleeding up the system procedure, I think he was refering to burped the sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by butcher_boy
[br]Head gasket on the right way?
there is only one way to put a head gasket on. im thinking there might actually be a short in the system. once i finished my ride the block and the rads were just warm, not hot. does anyone know the temp that the light would come on. im also looking into installing a temp gauge, would this be a viable and economic change to the "idiot light"
 

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I recently installed a temp gauge on my sled, but I also left the temp light there. I installed the gauge probe in line but you could just un screw your light fitting and install the probe in it's place.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by radianguy
[br]I recently installed a temp gauge on my sled, but I also left the temp light there. I installed the gauge probe in line but you could just un screw your light fitting and install the probe in it's place.
i dont really understand what you mean by this, could you better explain yourself. well, what i get from this is i just unplug my existing temp feed from the block and then inturn plug the feed into the new gauge?
 

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What I think he means is that you could unscrew your coolant temp switch from your head and replace it with a gauge or the sending unit for an electronic gauge, or you could leave your switch for your idiot light there and put the sending unit for your gauge somewhere else in the line and have BOTH the gauge and the idiot light(by replacing a small portion of hose with a sort of T junction to put your sending unit into. I am pretty sure you can't use your switch to run a gauge. I believe it is merely an on-off circuit, and doesn't give the real-time measure of voltage necessary to run a gauge.
 

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the switch will not work fora gauge, as Chadd said, was trouble shooting on my camaro this summer and found that out for sure. gota havea sending unit.
 

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The 95 temp light turns on by completeing a ground circuit. If the light comes on as soon as the engine is started, the sensor is bad or the wire has a short to ground. Disconect the wire and test the sensor with an ohm meter. If you get a reading the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.
 

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Mike, the number you are looking for is 207 degrees - that's the temperature that will cause the TEMP light to come on, if its working right.
Even though you "burped" your coolant system, you might still have air bubbles in there somewhere. Did you try a new coolant cap? Its worth a shot.
I have a gauge on mine, and when there are air bubbles in the system, the needle spazzes all over the place.
I put on a new cap, and that seems to have cured the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so if the cap is bad, it would in turn suck air into the cooling system. another question, how hard would it be to install a gauge
 

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Ok lets try this again. I kept my temp light and I put a temp gauge in the coolant line that leaves the head. All I needed was a T fitting like mentioned above and put the probe in the coolant line coming out of the head. The hardest part was putting the gauge in the dash. I'd say all in all it was 10 minute job.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ahh perfect. i wasn't looking forward to a big job. now ive also been reading i might need a AC to DC converter depending on what gauge i get?
 

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I had the same problem with my VCR a few years ago. I fixed it with a piece of black tape over the light. No problems since.

Seriously, how did you burp the system? You lifted the front end up and ran it with the cap off? Just asking as I did it wrong on the 650 recently. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
lifted it up with the cap off at idle, for possible 5 minutes. refilled the system, then squeezed the hoses leading to the rad, until the water went down again. toped it off and put the cap back on. went for a ride and it started to come back on.
i had this problem last year, so i decieded to flush the system and start over. seemed last year once the sled was at idle it would come on, and if i turned it off and re-started it, it would come on again
 

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I didn't get the electric gauge, just a regular temp probe. You can test it with any source of heat, ie lighter, hot water, torch...I didn't want an electric gauge, I figured this would be simpler.
 
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