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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
That's right, the mounts that hold my 1994 800cc storm motor have been modified and are tightened to the 1987 Indy 600 chassis! I decided to post some pics of the motor finally in place with the coolant lines hooked up from the motor to the micro-sprint radiator. From the steering and body rails being twisted (we bought it knowing it was rammed into a tree), to receiving the motor with no spark (stator was retarded completely), we've worked out the majority of the bugs and are on the homestretch to racing what my father and I now dub, the Abomination!



 

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That storm motor has mounds of torque. Make sure that you use both torque stops on it, or you'll be snapping belts like they're rubber bands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn't know it had a second torque stop. You can see the torque arm that I used in the pictures, but where is the threads for the second one? Where did you anchor it to? (I think I saw it in one of your pictures but I want to make sure)
 

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I had to take a better look at the pic...

It looks like you have a solid mount in the front, and the mount in the back at the left rear motor mount. That might be enough, hard to say.. You might still need the push-mount in the corner. to keep the motor straps from flexing.

My push mount is fabricated out of 2 torque stops.. The chassis part of mount is from the XLT chassis, and the arm is from the storm. I put the motor in place, clamped the 2 parts together for proper fit, then pulled them back out and welded it together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So update for ya, my dad and I took the 38mm mikuni's off of the indy 600 motor (the only thing really salvagable besides the chassis), and we had to cut two carbeurators sediment lines (below the main jet) because they interfered with the storm motor when mounted on the 600 motor mounts. Put a little JB Weld to seal the holes, nothing that stuff can't fix :p

Also half the hood is going to be missing because the pipes are so big! We actually have to make a bracket to keep a pipe away from a cooling line coming off the top of the motor. Did you run into any of these problems? More pics incoming.
 

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The 95 and later storm motors did not have the coolant lines over the exhaust..

200911595829211_18890.jpg

If you're going to really make a go of drag racing, you may want to consider getting a set of the nikasil jugs.. (this was an update in 95, and 96 and later had them factory) They don't have the coolant lines, the nikasil lowers drag giving a few more horsepower, and they last a lot longer before they need to be honed or bored..

You may also want to consider dumping the radiator, and getting a cooling tank setup for your pit instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah we've been running into all sorts of problems with the radiator since it is mounted above the overflow tank (note the tank sticking up on the makeshift bracket!). I think Nikasil is a cool idea, I'll look into pricing.

We got ourselves into big trouble with the chassis, it's beat up worse than we thought. You may be able to see from the pics how tight the fit is. But in all reality we won't be able to run a hood that looks like this in the quarter mile. Know anybody that has a rolling chassis in nice condition? Haha

Before


After


 

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Can you drop the motor lower in the chassis? If not, your only other option is to lift the hood a couple inches to clear or run different pipes.

I ran across the same issue stuffing my storm motor into an XLT chassis (the sled in my avatar pic), and mashed the pipes to fit. I only use it for trail riding and as a guinea pig for my EFI hacking, so it hasn't been an issue. But I'm sure it cost me a few HP..
 

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Asphalt_Indy said:
Yeah we've been running into all sorts of problems with the radiator since it is mounted above the overflow tank (note the tank sticking up on the makeshift bracket!). I think Nikasil is a cool idea, I'll look into pricing.

We got ourselves into big trouble with the chassis, it's beat up worse than we thought. You may be able to see from the pics how tight the fit is. But in all reality we won't be able to run a hood that looks like this in the quarter mile. Know anybody that has a rolling chassis in nice condition? Haha

Before


After


Ive got a goood chasis off a RXL, If you want it for racing i will donate to the cause. I will be minus the extra 12 front and the extra 10 rear. But the tunnel and bulkhead are good to go. Let me know if you want it. Like i said i will donate it to the cause
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Much appreciated Brian, that could be the ticket that I'm looking for! Mind sending a pic or two? I'm sure if it's what we're looking for my dad and I wouldn't mind driving out there to pick it up!
 

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I have a 95 RXL (xtra-12 all around) chassis you can have as well, if you want it. It's partially parted out already because it had neglect issues and suspension damage, but I'll stop after I take out the shocks for backup on my XLT/SP chassis. The chassis itself seems solid, just all the bearings, seals, hoses, paint and seat and the wiring harness were shot.

Google map to zip code 14568, ~190 miles away.. If you decide that want to venture out this far to pick it up, you can see my storm 800 trip stuffed into the XLT chassis with the EFI installed. (my avatar) And you can see my new as-of-yet secret EFI project..
 

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Asphalt_Indy said:
Much appreciated Brian, that could be the ticket that I'm looking for! Mind sending a pic or two? I'm sure if it's what we're looking for my dad and I wouldn't mind driving out there to pick it up!
Either mine or or poohs, doesnt matter to me. the chasis has a extension on it. I had a 136 put under it. PM me a # or email and i will snap some pics on my phone and send them to ya. There is NO hood or belly pan. But like i said its free and i got a extra 12 xlt chasis also that has a belly pan thats free also. I do need the exchangers off one of the chasis tho. Either one or UOPKs stuff. What ever you decide bro. Brian Lee[thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Haha well, I ironically am picking up an ultra chassis out in Moline next week, if you are just willing to get rid of it, I may be able to use it. Thanks Poo, I might make the trip some other time to see Frankenstorm! Haha that would be cool. I had her out on the road today, I can't get traction at all! PM sent btw
 

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There's a lot to traction...

A quick help is, no gravel, and it works a lot better with rubber built up on the surface.. So pull out the car and leave a few stripes down the road, then try using that as your launch point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lol, if only that Lincoln could rip that 4.6L V-8 like its Mustang counterpart, it would've already been done! I should have a video of it running down the strip this friday... hopefully
 

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Asphalt_Indy said:
Lol, if only that Lincoln could rip that 4.6L V-8 like its Mustang counterpart, it would've already been done! I should have a video of it running down the strip this friday... hopefully
Grab a mustang ECU... [thumb]

I'd re-map it for ya, but I don't have the right hardware for the new stuff. It's damn expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
LMAO! I already talked to my local Ford Dealer to see if anyone has ever done that + turbocharged a Continental. They told me I was nuts and wouldn't even look at the car!

I decided to leave the hood off for now until I pic up a second chassis. The wrap on the one pipe is composed of two pieces of rubber, wire and duct tape to elevate it from the water line for the time being (I think there is a term for that lol :p). Friday is her maiden voyage!

Don't ask me why I look like a creeper in this picture haha


Ingredients:
1987 Indy 600 chassis
1993 Indy XLT seat
1994 Indy Storm motor
1990 Indy 500 Brake master cylinder
1996 XCR Secondary clutch

Start by searching you're local commonwealth for a slammed (into a tree) chassis. Get lucky and acquire a radiator built to cool a 1000cc micro sprint. Remove all bearings that are held in by silicone... actually even the ones without silicone, and replace them! Buy a motor that won't fit to make it interesting. If you are not getting spark, readjust the stator because it is fully retarded. Modify the motor mounts. Cut apart the cooling block into 3 sections, remove the middle section and JB Weld a piece of conduit between the two pieces. Before filling the cooling line to check for leaks, be sure to elevate the overflow tank at least 6 inches so it is ABOVE the radiator! This will not fix the geyser out of the vent hole when you decide to start it, but it is necessary nevertheless. Move the steering rod from the top of the post to the bottom for clearance. The outside carburetors won't fit, cut the sediment lines off the outside carburetors and JB Weld the holes shut (lawl)! Attempt to run hose to all the connections where needed. Cut the hood up for about 3 hours to conclude that you're going to throw it away anyway since it's unsafe to race. Stuff a new set of UNI socks onto the end of the carburetors because they won't fit nicely. Let bake for about 5 months until you have enough time and money to finish and you should get something that resembles the picture below!



((Now someone buy my Mach Z in the sleds section so I can continue with more projects! Lol))
 

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The word you're looking for is "notagoodidea"...

Heh, those pipes can hit near 1,000f degrees.. That insulator that you've made will last for several seconds hard running time before it smokes, and will eventually catch fire when the pipes got really hot. That oughta smell nasty.

You're better off just wrapping the coolant hose in aluminum foil to reflect heat, if you can't get it more than 2" away from the pipe...

Let me do a little research on your ECU... What year continental? What motor model?
 

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Why do you look like a creeper in the picture? LMAO. JK
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Haha probably because I was eyeing up the fine honey across the street!
 
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