[snojunkee]

haven't got a single reply about putting rmk heat exchangers on my sled.Am I the only one overheating when there's no snow on the trail?Am I wasting time by adding more exchangers?the only ice and slush I get off of the trail in the spring packs up near the back of my tunnel where I want to add the other heat exc.The ones on the running boards and front of the tunnel don't get any ice or slush in these conditions. I can't seem to get the water pump belt to tighten all the way, it's got about 3/8 of an inch of slack, it's a new belt. Is this normal or is my water pump slipping? Every thing else seems to check out, the only time I overheat is when there's no snow on the trail. Give me some input before I put all this time into a mod that doesn't work. THANX

 

[ACEXLT]

I have never heard of the mod you are talking about, but Polaris has a heat exchanger(more like a radiator) kit that you can put in the nose cone of your sled. I have seen them on Ebay. Seems that might be easier to try.

NO FOREST FAIRIES(SKIERs)
BURN GAS SLEDS KICK AZZ!

TRIPLE-THE ONLY CHOICE!!!!!
'00 Indy Triumph
'93 XLT 580
'78 Arctic Cat Jag 3000

 

[Tfin70]

The heat exchangers on my XLT are set up the same as yours. I've never had any problems with overheating. 3/8 of freeplay is definately too much on your water pump belt ( I think its suppose to be like 1/8), so it could definately be slipping. I'd fix that first, before I spent money on an additional heat exchanger.

All you do is take the recoil housing off to have access to the pump and belt. Then loosen the two bolts that hold the pump to the engine. Push down hard on the spout that faces the front of the sled (comes out of the pump). This will pivot the back of the pump up, thus tightning the pump belt. While your holding down on that spout, tighten the bolt thats right next to the spout. Keep pushing down on the spout and then tighten the other bolt (the one closest to the rider) down. Now check for the belt free play. Be sure to tighten the two bolts well, or the pump will pivot back and you'll loose you your belt tension.......But don't over tighten them or they'll snap.

1997 XLT SP 600
"Engage the Mechanism"

 

[xltman]

exactly, start at the pump, cause if the pump isnt spinning like it is supposed to, you will have an overheating condition, also, the conditions you stated are partly to blame, not enough snow on those exchangers-it will not cool efficiently. have you ever considered adding those spring loaded scratchers to your skis? they are supposed to scratch the trail and kick the snow/ice/etc onto the tunnel heat exchangers. you may want to check into those, i dont know if anyone uses them here, but maybe you could give that some thought before adding more exchangers.

 

[hotrod]

I never owned an RXL do they have a thermostat. If yes try a cooler one. Do you have a temperature guage to know what the actual temp is. If its just a light, sometimes the sending unit is off.

Go get a new sled for your spouse.....It will be a fair trade

 

[XLTSPYEAH]

How about the radiator cap? Don't know if the RXL has one like mine but I just bought a new one since it looked corroded on the top outside were the lever lock is.

* Polaris * ......... The Way Out!

 

[snojunkee]

thanx guys at least I've got some ideas to go off of now. I'm going to tighten my waterpump belt , I might have to get a smaller belt since this one is tightened all the way. I can't add a radiator to the nose since I had to relocate the battery there when I put the triple pipes on. The sled was set up with ice scratchers when I bought it, but the springs are gone.I might try these too.To mount the rmk heat exc. I have to cut a channel under the seat for the hoses and route the hoses under the tank, or get a later seat and tank.Anyway it's a lot of fabrication so I was thinking about doing it now since my leg is broke .

 

[zackattack]

About the radiator: Yes polaris makes sleds that have it in the back of the tunnel, but routing it could be a problem. The hoses go under the tank and seat. The 2002's were known for overheating. The solution was to install a rear heat exchanger that actually fits between the two exchangers that run the length of the tunnel. The real problem with the 2002's is the coolant bottle. The original one would get distorted by heat and not hold it's pressure causing it to prematurly boil over. Sorry if I got off track, it just seemed to fit. I have mounted a finned cooler in the nose of some of my older sleds and it helped alot, plus it's alot easier to install.