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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Well I know I put up a similar post last week or so. I was told to use a wobble extension to torque the cylinders. Well that would work no problem on the nuts facing the carbs. But obviously not so well on the back side by the exhaust. You cant even get a socket on them. Is my only option the boxed end wrench with a center hole for a rachet? 2010112119261963_20214.jpg

Thanks
 

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Yup...always an issue. I even bought the wobble sockets like you used and took them back because they didn't work. I ran them all down in small increments, got them tight and then torqued the ones I could while using a wrench on the others..by feel. Not the suggested method but it worked. I would like to know how this is accomplished...the right way.

Using that wrench you pictured with the square drive in it would change the torque significantly and for that I think the feel method is better...my .02.
 

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crows foot. I had the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
whitexc said:
Yup...always an issue. I even bought the wobble sockets like you used and took them back because they didn't work. I ran them all down in small increments, got them tight and then torqued the ones I could while using a wrench on the others..by feel. Not the suggested method but it worked. I would like to know how this is accomplished...the right way.

Using that wrench you pictured with the square drive in it would change the torque significantly and for that I think the feel method is better...my .02.
Ya, I was talking to a buddy of mine and he said the same thing. Get a feel for torquing the front ones, and then just use a wrench on the back ones. I might just end up going that way. I'm tempted to call the local dealer and ask them how "they" torque them down.

littlemel said:
crows foot. I had the same problem.
Your right, crows foot does look like a good way to go. Thanks for the idea! I've never seen that before to be honest.
 

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I have a snap on wobble with socket that fits. Have used a GM distributor wrench (9/16" works on the 14mm nut). The torque applied is not the same and you tighten by feel. The crows foot set I had did not fit in.

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I've done them by feel for years on my 700 big blocks, never had a base gasket failure yet, and I bought a 14mm crow foot but with a extension the torque value differed so I just went old school with the box end wrench, just don't go too tight and pinch the base gasket.
 

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Crows foot didn't work either...you could turn it a bit but then it hits the cylinder and you have to flip it and the nut wasn't turned enough...PITA. On top of that, as stated, the torque value changes whenever you stray from just a socket directly on the torque wrench.

I went to my dealer and asked at the time and the "old timey" that was in there said to use a wrench..."been doing it that way for years" I believe was his quote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
slamdry said:
did you try a 1/4"?? the smaller side wall may let it fit in there.
Ya, that's actually a 1/4 on there in that picture. I'm going to try the crows foot, if it doesn't go, im just going by feel with a wrench.

98700xc said:
I've done them by feel for years on my 700 big blocks, never had a base gasket failure yet, and I bought a 14mm crow foot but with a extension the torque value differed so I just went old school with the box end wrench, just don't go too tight and pinch the base gasket.
Alright, ya I'm going to try it out in a few minutes here.
 

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i just use a 14mm open end. and torque it by feel.
 

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shady800x said:
i just use a 14mm open end. and torque it by feel.
Yes that would get everything close enough. Just try to do them all the same.
 

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when i built my triple i believe i just did the feeler wrench for the base, the heads are may more important to get a accurate torque to them any way.
 
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