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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just pulled a stud and a huge piece of track came along with it. I'm looking for a replacement track and studs. I had 96 studs in the previous track but would 144 do good for this sled(mxz583)? Also I wouldn't do too well around here w/o studding right away. What are your thoughts on studding before the track is broken in? Last thing...If 144 studs would be good for my sled should I get a pre-molded stud hole track? Thanks
 

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hey i havent done this but when u put the new studs in go with nylon backers. I guess that instead of ripping the track they just break so your track isnt ripped and you can just replace the stud which is a lot cheaper than replacing the track
 

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I have a 583, I run 120 picks with square nylon backers turned 45 degrees so it looks like a diamond instead of square. And yes, I picked the outside of the track. 4,000km, no broken backers and no pull-throughs, although I do have a couple of bent picks. We ride pretty aggresively most of the time.
 

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putting your backers on so they look like a diamond puts more stress on the track than when they are square,im not sure about the nylon ones but id put them sguare anyhow.i installed track lug studs into the lugs of my sks and put about 900 miles on them with not problems of them ripping out or splitting the lug,even if they do end up splitting the track will still be fine they make a couple different kinds the cheaper ones arent as good
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I guess when I get studs I'll get 144 or 120 +the nylon backers. If anyone has any info on studding a brand new track, like what problems I could face, that'd be great. Thanks
 

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Following Woody's guidlines your sled requires 120 studs. I just studded my new track last weekend and rode 600 miles trouble free. I decided to go with Aluminum washers after discussing it with some guys on the forum.
 

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The number of studs you use depends on the way you ride, the surface your riding on, and the horse power of your sled. If 96 studs has worked well for you in the past I would not increase it, though I believe 120 would run fine on this sled, remember the more weight you add to the track the more stress there is on the track and can shorten its life span. If your going to stud the track yourself then pick up a template and mark out all the holes with a paint stick prior to drilling them, also there is a special drill bit used for drilling the track, make sure you have a high speed drill for this bit otherwise it just doesn't work. After break-in be sure to recheck track tension. Good luck!
 

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The only plastic backers that are worth a sh*t are the fast trac polymer backers. Other wise i like the stud boy power backers. Jacqui583 I would strongly suggest turning your backers so they are square, the stress is all put on the point of the backer which will make it easier to to poke into the track and tear out if they are not square. I have studded many brand new tracks both yokahoma and camoplast without breaking them in with no problems.
 

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I've heard this quite a bit, indytriple, since I've been posting on the boards, so I checked my track at the beginning of this season to see if there are any problems and there aren't even any witness marks on the track from the backers. I've had them on for over 4,000km, I would think that if there is going to be a problem from the angle they are installed it would start to show up by now?

Perhaps it's holding up because they're nylon instead of aluminum; more flexibility? Just a thought. It's working for me, but I am keeping a better eye on it.
 

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just finally got mine done today 2002 mxz 600 120 studs did it myself aluminum sqare beackers 1 inch studs and she hooks up great now as for the tunnel protecters that was a snap i hade em on in like 15 mins
 
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