if you track is too loose the drive will slip, look under the sled where the track raps aroung a gear wit h4 black wheels, you will see the grips on the side, and when the tack is loose they will skip and thats the ratcheting
i beleive my track is doing that , what causes the track to loosen?
my sliders need changing, if i put brand new ones in would that bring some of the tension back or what? or just tighten those two side bolts, how much room should there be between the track and the rails when the sled if off the ground?
nah, doesn't have a metal-on-metal sound of gears stripping. New sliders would bring back a tiny bit of tension, but not much. Most manuals say to hang 10-20lbs at around the middle of the track, and tighten till it has about a half-inch of play. if it requires more than that, you either have monster horsepower mods, or your drivers are rounded off, and need to be replaced. Also, make sure you adjust each side evenlny, so that the track runs true down the middle of the sliders.
i think my gears are stripped, because it got worse last night, went on a 50 mile trip, and it barely drives up small hills... and it now does it when i break too. oh well, have to buy a pro x 440 racer now
Damn, in the same situation, Had some "ratcheting" (tock, tock, tock, sound like at car slammed into park before stopped moving) sounds last weekend when gave it gas at speed up hills, doesn't seem to happen from start. Checked chain tension (has reverse), overtightened to the point couldn't get into reverse, loosened, ok. Same issue at test, Checked track tension this week, snugged up to spec, went for a quick ride this afternoon, seems almost worse! Did it on acceleration up a steep hill and when on the gas in loose stuff as I got up to some speed. The track lugs (inside)look good, I'm thinking the chaincase gears rounded/worn and/or chain worn. Ideas ? What did you find sukmy49311 ?
i havent looked into it yet, my track is not loose had a couple friends look at it, mine got 100 times worse haha, at first it only happened when i was accelerating really hard it would start and i would let off the gas, and we went for a ride and we got about 30 miles away and it got worse , it got to the point were i could barley move, i had to basically ride 5000rpms till i could get up to speed, and i could not stop in powder or on uphills, or i could not move at all, on top of all that my belt went KA-POW! haha it sucked 30 miles to go of freshly groomed trails, and i couldnt enjoy it,
when we got back i got as far as taking off the breaks and lookin down there, didnt feel like tailin the chain case cover off, but i found some nice chunks of metal on my dipstick, im sure they dont belong in there, and i probably had like a pound of shavings on the end ever time i stuck the dip stick in.... so im pretty sure is my gears or chain, time for new ones,
?? can you change the size on gears to make the sled accelerate faster or more torque or anything like that.?/??
Yeah, I was hoping that, I switched to a new belt before the last test run, no diff. As it's 12:30am and I just got home from work, Hopefully i'll get a look inside it tommorrow, err, I mean tonight.[|)]
You two have GOT to open your chain case. I've broken 3 chains in my 30+ yrs. of riding. Once I just replaced the chain, once I had to replace the chaincase, once I ripped the chaincase from the chassis.
I think I must know what a archeologist feels like. I think I was the first person to see the inside of this chain case in 12 years and 3600 miles. [:I]
I found why the case seemed locked up when I adjusted the chain, I was! [:0] There is so much stretch in the chain that when I finger tightened it down the chain pressed against the reverse idler gear...the chain shouldn't be stiff when off the sled, right. [B)]
As far as ratcheting goes, I can see the wear on the top gear and the chain face. The bottom gear looks good. The bearings felt solid, the magnet looked like a melted gumdrop but cleaning showed no chunks or slivers, just sludge. Cogs/track look good.
Looks like I might get away with a new chain and top gear. Anybody know of website that has a circa ‘92 polaris indy reverse chain case diagram? My manual does not show the reverse case as it was an option. Thank you everyone for your advice. 
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