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Discussion Starter #1
Sled: 1997 XLTsp with stock .91 track.

After warming up the track I measured 1.5 inches of slack with aprox. 10 pounds of weight pressure. This is what I must of been running at the end of last year and I experienced no slippage or anything.

Too loose, not enough, about right?

thanks in advance
dan
 

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do you have your manual? it sould say in there...looser is better tho, asl ong as it doesnt ratchet
 

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sounds good. It is loser than spec, which is 1 inch with 10lbs hanging.
I would run it that way. My XLT is at about an inch and seems to tight.
 

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I have the same sled I run my about 1.5 to 2" and have no problems.
if you go my the book you going to replace the hyfax every 500miles or sooner. remember loose is fast![:D]
 

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You are fine as long as the track isn't ratcheting or slapping anything.If you have studs watch the front heat exchanger and tunnel. Yep, loose is fast and your hyfax will last longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replys folks. Like I said, the track wasn't ratcheting, just wasn't sure if there was any other possible problems to being looser then the manual calls for. I'm not studded [V]
 

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Looser is better, just be sure the track is running true and not running off to one side or the other. I know the track on my triumph is looser than spec, but as long as the studs dont hit the front heat exchanger, then i'm happy with it.
 

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look through the windows in the track at the hyfax, they should look like their in the middle of the window. If not you losen or tighten the track until they are centered.
 

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Here's a question, what if you can't jack the sled up high enough to hang a 10 pound weight off it? How could you spec the track tension then?
 

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I use a bar-bell placed on the inside of the track (the backside of the track facing the ground). It fits between the rails and suspension no problem
 

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For the 97 XLT you aren't suppose to hang any weight from the track (as per Polaris Factory Shop Manual).

Track hang is to be 1/2" measured at 2" behind the black rubber bumpstop on the rail.

But as loose as you can go without ratcheting. [:D]
 

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Discussion Starter #14
^^^^ What are the black rubber bumpstops. Are they the do-hickies near the center of the rails? If so, that's about where I measured and got the 1.5inch slack. What do they do? Keep the skid from completly bottoming out?

I use a ten pound dumbell. Probably not the most accurate, but gives ya a ballpark figure.

/snofan/../images/users/pigboy/12-05-020013.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by Darkstar
[br]look through the windows in the track at the hyfax, they should look like their in the middle of the window. If not you losen or tighten the track until they are centered.
Isn't there a trick to that. Say the left side of the track is off. Don't you then tighten or loosen the right side track adjuster bolt?
 

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Originally posted by pigboy
Are they the do-hickies near the center of the rails?
Oh no... You throw these technical terms at me and I get all confused...

Hahaha... J/K man...[:D]
 

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Pigboy,
You are correct adjust opposite side.
Tighten to push the track away from you and loosen to pull it towards you... IF THAT MADE ANY SENSE
 

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So it sounds like at least on my sled I don't need a weight to hang from it or placed inside of it. If I the track hangs a 1/2" measured 2" back from the rubber stops on the bottom rails, then I am good. If I wanted to go looser then I could go more than 1/2" as long as the track doesn't slap the tunnel. Sound reasonable? Oh and the 1/2" slack is based on the assumption that the 96 XLT SP has the same suspension as the 97 XLT SP.
 

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^^^You are correct
 

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Pigboy and XLTSPYEAH, you are correct. Measure 2" back from the black rubber bump stop on the rail. You want to see 1/2" of hang at that point with NO weight on, or hanging from the track. This is for all Xtra-12 suspensions.

As for track alignment, if the track is to far to the left, (as looking from the rear of the sled), loosen the left locknut and tighten the left side adjusting bolt. If the track is to far to the right, loosen the right locknut and tighten right adjusting bolt. In either case, be sure to then tighten the locknut back down when finished and check for track tension again.
 
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