[fxd]

I just finished installing a 1" factory track on my 95 XLT special, I had no clearance between the 1" tunnel protectors and the track. I took the tunnel protectors out and replaced them with 1/2" hyfax, well it's all back together and now I have about 1/8" clearance before the 1.25 inch studs hit the tunnel. I'm open to ideas on how to correct this. Can I drill replacment holes for the suspension approx 3/4 to 1" below the factory holes? do I take out my $200.00 studs and just run the track? is there something I might have missed in the installation of the track that would explain this trouble? Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thx

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[Sled_Dog]

you don't do that unless this is a predrilled track the track would be weaker then. This happens. My one Skidoo friend with a Mach Z 800 has worn through his bulkhead with his studs hitting it.

 

[wigga]

Do you have different holes setting on the tunnel for for the suspension

 

[fxd]

Nope, but I just called the dealer and this is what they recommend. Put the 1" tunnel protectors back on and mount the track, then run the track off the ground to burn the extra rubber off the track in line with the protectors. the new track does have more rubber covering the clips then my old track had, probably 1/2 inch or more. It looks like I would only have to burn away 1/8 to 1/4" then I won't have to worry about the studs hitting the tunnel because the protectors are tall enough. How does that sound? In my earlier post I was reffering to drilling out the chassis lower than current mounting holes not the actual suspesion.

I don't care where we go, let's just ride....

 

[Sled_Dog]

I understood that part of the chassis hole drilling. Don't your studs stick past your lug? Don't they hit the tunnel Protectors?

 

[fxd]

Sorry I misunderstood, no the studs aren't in line with the tunnel protectors, the protectors run along the windows. but if I push up on the track the studs hit the tunnel before the track hits the 1/2" protectors. I wonder if I should try 3/4" protectors first.

I don't care where we go, let's just ride....

 

[hotrod]

I have lowered the suspension in the tunnel before . On the sled I did there was predrilled holes on the metal bracket riveted inside your tunnel. Just use them for a guide. I would suggest however that you only move it the minimum you can get away with. You might have to suck up the limiter strap or increase the front spring preload to keep your suspension acting where you like it.

 

[hotrod]

I meant to say, increase the preload on the front SKI springs. The way Iwrote it made it sound like I meant front track spring.

 

[erick]

I dont really see a problem with lowering the whole skid down 3/4 of an inch or so. It should be fine.

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[fxd]

The dealer said it could affect the handling if I drop it too much but I'm goin to try it the way it is with a 3/4 tunnel protector first that might get me enough room to work with.

I don't care where we go, let's just ride....

 

[Sled_Dog]

you drop it that much it won't affect it much. You center of gravity will be higher but by maybe 3/4 of an inch. Nothing that I think you would notice.

 

[Polaris-Man]

Even if your center of gravity changes a bit, that's better than chewing your tunnel up.

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[Sled_Dog]

quite a bit better. I doubt it will adversly affect your handling if you don't drastically change it.

 

[fxd]

Is 1/8 of an inch enough clearance between stud tip and tunnel? I know it's close but I really dont want to take out all these studs and run with holes in my track. They said 1.15" was max and I went 1.25" I guess I won't do that again.

I don't care where we go, let's just ride....

 

[erick]

I would say that is a bit close. You should also think about lowering your skid down.

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