[litlpunisher]

Can any one give some real good suspension tips for good traction in grass drags. Pictures or ideas would be great. Need to get out of hole.

 

[Sled_Dog]

what sled would this happen to be?

 

[mattgross]

run the front suspension as low as you can and is legal, and run steel wear bars. run the center spring very hard and run the limit straps short, and lower the ride height of the rear suspensionand soften the preelead on the rear springs, so you have good weight transfer. this is out of the skidoo race manual for grass drags

 

[RXL650]

are u studded or not. if not try putting your track backwards. grabs alot better but it takes longer to stop. also you could try to tighten the limiter strap. this would put more track to the ground for better traction.


3 IN A ROW MAKE YOU GO!!!

 

[mattgross]

i said shorten the limiter straps alreagy

 

[litlpunisher]

I just want to make sure I don't spin to much with th nitrous

 

[mattgross]

if you have nitrous you better have studs

 

[litlpunisher]

I got studs

 

[Junior]

ok, I dunno how much n02 yer runnin, but if yer runnin n02 I"m gonna assume this is a full blown, ported, polished, piped race sled. like, full race, not a trail sled on the side.

ok, for a full race sled, yer gonna want 5 chisels per bar, chain down yer suspension, set yer limiters to about half, and get the smallest spacer possible in your transfer rods.

ok, that's pretty much as much as I can tell ya for a starting set-up. once you get her to the field, if she's giveing to much ski lift at the line, then you need to sinch down your limiter straps. if it's spinning, loosen. generally the best technique is to start WAY forward on the sled, then when you hit it, let the sled come out from under you for as far as you can. if you'r haveing problems with spinning, it MAY be more effective to sit further back, but watch she doesn't wheelstand on you, I've seen that to many times for it to be funny.

that is pretty much all the suspension work I can give ya man. but... I dunno, this whole thing doesn't make much sense to me. 'cause if yer a professional racer, you SHOULD know how to set-up yer own suspension, and if your not... you should NOT be running N02.

if you're an amateur makeing a full race sled, then maybe this is makes sense, but in any case whatsoever, this is a very dangerous thing. I race every second weekend, and this year alone, I saw 5 crashes. and in one of themn, the victim lost over 60% of the muscle mass in his leg.

and I"m not counting these as crashes unless there was serios damage to either sled or rider.

well, in any case, good luck, and ride safe man, don't be afraid to let off if she's comein up to hard.

they may be called snowmobiles, but hiding behind that is a cheap excuse to not grass drag.

 

[razorsharp]

I've never been around NO2. Do you feed it at the line or let the moter go for a second or two?

You don't have to believe everything you think!

 

[Junior]

generally you set it on a microswitch so that as soon as you hit WOT it's injected into your engine after the carbs, same as a boost bottle type location. and you punch her wide open once you feel you've got traction and aren't at risk of bringing her over on yourself, if she's comein up to hard, you'lol just hurt yourself, if you don't have traction, you're just hurting the engine.

they may be called snowmobiles, but hiding behind that is a cheap excuse to not grass drag.

 

[litlpunisher]

I don't believe in microswitches for wot beause if you lose traction I like to be able to let off the n2o but keep full throttle. This way I don't lose both.

 

[Junior]

very true I suppose. where are you raceing this thing? (viper right?) if the track if half decent, traction shouldn't be a problem.

they may be called snowmobiles, but hiding behind that is a cheap excuse to not grass drag.