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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all

This might be off topic, but didn't know where else to put it ...

Hello all

I just re-wired my trailer with a Grote Submersible Lighting Kit.

You can see the kit here: http://grote.com/cgi-bin/product.cgi?familyid=F0004

The kit came with the following:

-LH Lamp w/ 1 green and 1 brown wire
-RH Lamp w/ 1 yellow and 1 brown wire
-1 Jumper Wire set w/ 1 green and 1 brown wire
-Main Harness w/ 4 point flat lead (yellow, brown, green, and white wires)
-1 lone brown wire (???)
-odds & ends wire connectors, etc.

The colours mean this on the trailer AND the truck as well (I checked the truck's wires with a tester):

Yellow: LH Turn
Green: RH Turn
Brown: Running Lights
White: Ground

To install, I ran the main harness onto my trailer, ensuring that no unintentional grounds were created. I did this by NOT using the supplied metal clips to hold the wire to the trailer frame as they puncture the wire. To ensure the one ground that I did want, I polished the trailer frame with a wire brush to ensure good contact before connecting the white wire off the trailer side 4 way flat lead.

Next, I wire brushed the holes through which the bolts on the LH and RH lamps would go through to ensure that they were grounded when I bolted them on. I then bolted these suckers on.

I then connected the jumper wires to the LH lamp, brown to brown and green to green. After doing this, I ran them along the trailer to the RH lamp area.

I connected the LH lamp's yellow wire to the main harness' yellow wire.

I connected the RH lamp's green wire (via the jumper wire) to the main harness' green wire.

I then connected both LH & RH lamps' brown wires to the main harness' brown wire.

Now, remember that lone brown wire that I listed in the kit parts section? Well, that I believed was for the side lights (amber) halfway up the trailer, so I spliced into the main harness' brown wire with a couple of plastic splicing clips that came with the kit (after the lights wouldn't work - see below - I unhooked these lights and checked that no unintentional grounds were created here as well. Will hook these up after I get the lights working).


Hooked up the trailer to the truck and VIOLA!!! - didn't work.

The running lights come on when the park lights are on.

Both LH & RH signals activate the opposing signal, albeit weakly. The tester shows strong power (regular blinking) to the turn signal being activated, but also shows that the opposing signal is blinking very weakly as well (the light in the tester just barely blinks weakly).

Pressing on the brake pedal causes all lights to go off on the trailer.

All truck lights work, and continue to do so even when hooked up to the trailer. All fuses are good and the truck can correctly run a UHaul trailer's lights.

The 4 way flat connector on the truck shows (proper) power going to the connector when the tester is hooked up to it.

After plugging in the trailer, I tested the wires immediately after the trailer's 4 way flat connector on the trailer side. The LH & RH wires are strong on the side that they should be (lighting up the tester well), and cause the light to dimly blink on the opposing side (like the lights themselves do).

I thought that it might be the connector on the trailer side and put another new one on, but with the same problems.

I also bought another light set and switched lamps, but same problems.

I used a set of booster cables to ensure a good ground between the trailer and the truck, just in case the ball and hitch weren't doing the job. This too did not help.

The white wire on the truck side is hooked up directly to the regular harness, and I assume finds its ground down the line as I can light up the UHaul trailer perfectly fine. To double check this, I spliced in another ground wire to the white on the truck side and grounded to the frame - no change.

Before I shut up, let me add that I hooked up my other truck to the trailer and the trailer behaved the same way.

If you are still reading this, thanks for any input and thanks for the time.

TG
 

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First off,
does your vechile have seperate turn,{AMBER}
Brake{RED} lights. if so thats the problem.if not::
try this
All the lights ground through frame.

the green on the vehicle goes to green on trailer {turn + brake} bulb brighter filiment."

yellow to the opposite side,SAME function:

if lights on trailer are opposite to vechicle swap reverse yellow and green

brown to brown .running lights. {Dimmer filiment}.
for side cleareance lights, 1 wire to the main brown.

WHITE wire ,if this a tilt trailer, and your grounded to tounge of trailer,make a jumper wire to go from tounge to main frame at hte tilting hinge,trailers aren,t supposed to ground through the ball and hitch.
make sure ground on vehicle is good,lighting ground,not grounded to hitch

as said earlier, you.ll need a control box for seperate turn and brake lights.

this has to work,1157 bulbs for rear lights,
single contact bulbs for side markers.
 
G

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Many of the newer trucks have seperate turning and brake lights. There is an adapter that you have to use that makes them work correctly on a trailer. I got mine a Wall-Mart. Maybe this is your problem too. I also used "If I remember right" the white wire for the ground. It has been a long time ago but I think that was my back-up lights. Everytime I put my truck in reverse with the trailer hooked up it would blow the fuse. As it turned out I had a direct short everytime I backed up.

Just some thoughts.

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, thanks for the responses guys.

Here's what ended up happening.

The trailer didn't ground well enough, even after polishing up all grounding points. What I ended up doing was running two extra ground wires from the short white (ground) on the trailer lead. I ran these to the back of the trailer and, after crimping on some ring terminal connectors, bolted one of the wires to my LH lamp, and the other wire to my RH lamp. I connected them to the lamps by taking off one of the mounting nuts and slipping the ring terminal over the bolt. I put the nut back on and VIOLA! - I had lights.

Also, I had to take off each main (red) lens from the lamps and push up on the bulb bracket to ensure that it had a good connection with the plate that completes the circuit.

Thanks again for the input guys!

TG
 
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