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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
I replaced the carb boots, added a little red RTV where the reed valves meet the block since I noticed the gaskets were worn down. The gaskets on the reed valves are built in and I didn't want to replace the entire reed since they are in good condition. I have also replaced all vacuum port caps on the carbs since they were cracked and dry as well.

I had gone through the carbs once again to make sure they were clean, I realized that the jets had no stamping on them which tells me it must be some sort of rebuild kit that was put in there. From my research, the jet sizes should be the following, 340 Main and 50 on the Pilot? I had the the needle clip set to the second slot from the top. We ran the sled and were able to go out on the lake which seemed to be working correctly. We were doing some ice fishing so the sled sat a little, we had to head back to the cottage for stuff and the sled wouldn't go over 40mph and then eventually died. it took us a little bit of time to get it started again and got it back to the cottage.

We left it at the cottage and went back to the lake using my machine, when we got back we tried to get the Polaris running again and we had no luck, it would bog and die out, eventually not starting at all. I pulled the plugs and sure enough they were soaked, so now it's either the choke acting up from time to time or it just needs re-jetting. I had verified the chokes when I took the carbs apart and it was all clean so i have trouble thinking that they are the cause....

This thing has been a nightmare, two seasons of trying to get this thing to run properly...
 

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Needle and seat? I bet the crank case is full of gas. Pull the drain plugs on the front lower and see what comes out. If there is gas in there you may want to Pull the exhaust as well. Needle and seat or a torn diaphragm in the fuel pump.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Needle and seat? I bet the crank case is full of gas. Pull the drain plugs on the front lower and see what comes out. If there is gas in there you may want to Pull the exhaust as well. Needle and seat or a torn diaphragm in the fuel pump.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Thank you for your message, my buddy has the sled at his place again so I'll get him to remove the drain plugs and see what he sees. I believe there are 3 underneath the exhaust/coolant rail?

I didn't think about the needle and seat, they are probably the original. The fuel pump is new from this year so I think that should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well, we finally figured out what was wrong with his machine!! I pulled the motor and replaced both seals as well as all gaskets, the seal on the clutch side was a little loose and I believe was leaking a little once warmed up. That wasn't the main issue at hand however; I nailed it down to being a choke issue which is why it would run flawlessly sometimes and terrible at other times, When you flicked the choke switch up and released it back it would slide out of it's block (where the 1 cable links into 3) and catch which would hold the plungers up and causing it to run super rich.

We figured this out over the weekend while ice fishing and were able to enjoy the machine for the entire weekend!
 

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update
I have cleaned the heads/manifold and bolted everything back up as well as synchronized the carbs. Took it out for a rip today and she works as she should. This thing has more power than I thought!

I currently have the airbox off and it seems to run rich anyways (smells heavily of gas) I'll have to check the plugs, but it smells really strong.

Couple things I can do is turn the air screw out a little, it's currently turned out 1 full turn. I can also drop the clip down a notch on the needle, it's currently sitting on the second clip from the top.

If not, then I'll have to do some re-jetting. I was thinking of just throwing some cone air filters on the carbs (I call them air pods) since it's already running rich without the airbox in place. What are people's thoughts on this?

Cheers

Mitch
Glad to hear that cleaning the heads/manifold and synchronizing the carbs has improved the performance of your sled!
If you're experiencing a strong smell of gas, it's likely that the sled is running rich. Turning the air screw out a little and dropping the clip down a notch on the needle are good options to try to adjust the fuel mixture. These adjustments can be effective in fine-tuning the mixture, but if they don't fully resolve the issue, re-jetting may be necessary.

In terms of air filters, cone air filters (also known as air pods) can be an option, but they can also affect the fuel mixture and may require re-jetting as well. If you do decide to switch to air pods, be sure to research the correct jetting for your specific sled and altitude to avoid running too lean or too rich.

Finding the right balance of air and fuel for optimal performance will depend on a variety of factors, including altitude, temperature, humidity, and modifications made to the sled. It may take some experimentation and tuning to find the optimal setup for your sled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Glad to hear that cleaning the heads/manifold and synchronizing the carbs has improved the performance of your sled!
If you're experiencing a strong smell of gas, it's likely that the sled is running rich. Turning the air screw out a little and dropping the clip down a notch on the needle are good options to try to adjust the fuel mixture. These adjustments can be effective in fine-tuning the mixture, but if they don't fully resolve the issue, re-jetting may be necessary.

In terms of air filters, cone air filters (also known as air pods) can be an option, but they can also affect the fuel mixture and may require re-jetting as well. If you do decide to switch to air pods, be sure to research the correct jetting for your specific sled and altitude to avoid running too lean or too rich.

Finding the right balance of air and fuel for optimal performance will depend on a variety of factors, including altitude, temperature, humidity, and modifications made to the sled. It may take some experimentation and tuning to find the optimal setup for your sled.
I'm not sure if you actually read all of the posts or just find one that you want to comment on but my last post as of yesterday states that we have figured out the issue. It seems you just keep commenting on my posts with the same information about carb tuning which I am already aware of...

FYI - The machine was running rich because the choke was hanging up which caused the plunger to remain slightly open. The stock airbox has been fully assembled and the sled ran great for the weekend without issues.
 
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