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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK... my 79 everst has spark in the mag side cylinder and not the cltuch side cylinder. Heres a run down. I replaced the caps, points, and condensors One of the condensors got a little beat up when it was put in. I just tested the coils with an ohm meter on 20k setting and at the caps the coils read 10-11. At the coil they read 5-6. So does this mean both coils are good? Also we have switch sprak plugs wire the the right cylnder is still the one that fires. So any ideas on what the prob is? Thanks. I ahve a light gun or whatever there called but i dont see how that will help. I also replace all the engine but that prolly wont help.
 

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i have hade that problem on older sleds have u checked the point gap it is very important to get a good spark there should be like 2 holes or spots to stick a fealer gauge through to get to the points as u turn the motor over by hand the points will open and shut what ever the point gap is they should never open more then specified at full open i would bet this will cure your problem good luck to you a sled that dont run right can be real frustrating i know that
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
We dont have spec for the gap. But there are timing marks on the flywheel and at those marks the point should jsut be cracking so thats what me and my dad did.
 

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If I understand your post it must be the spark plug itself that is bad. If you changed the wires from one side to the other and the right side stayed working that eliminates everything else.

Go get a new sled for your spouse.....It will be a fair trade :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hotrod the plugs have been replaced with new ones. But My dad says i tested the coil wrong cause i didnt disconnect the leads coming into so any where i touched for ground there would be resistant or something like that some im gonna try again.
 

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Resistance, He probably said resistance. Did you actually change the wires on the coils or just switch the wires at the plugs. (this checked with the plugs out)
 

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[purple]Are the wires themselves in good shape?[/purple][/font=Comic Sans MS]

[purple]Kimba466[/purple][/size=4][/font=Comic Sans MS]
[purple]Ride Safe[/purple][/font=Comic Sans MS]
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK the coil was deemed good by my local shop and by me. We took the low voltage lead off the coil that produces spark along with the ground and the coil that was tested at the shop and it sparks. So here is where we are at. My dad thinks it may be the stator coils. So if anyone can give me risistance specs for the stator coils. We are aloso checking to see if the points are staying open or closed all the time. We also need to know what color wires to test to thanks.
 

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You said one of the condensors was "beat up" when you put it in. How beat up? Did you solder it in there good? Maybe then joint came undone.

I don't think your stator coils are bad if one sparks and the other completely doesn't. Is there even a little spark?
 

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have u taken the metal cover off and turned the motor over by hand to see what the points are doin what do u have them gaped at now make sure they are both the same with the metal cover off u should be able to see them pretty good as u turn it over u will see then opening and closing and then u can stick the gauge in to see what u have at full open and go from there i could be way off on this but in my cases that was the problem they are very touchy for a atrong spark and can be real frustrating once u get them dialed in you are set i am sure if this doesnt work someone will be able to help u there is some smart people on this site with some great tips
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We have the cover off so we can see the points. we dont have gapping spec fo rthe points. Our manual just said they the should be cracking just b.t.d.c. There is an an indirect and direct timind spec from somewhere in the 2 mm's. Is this the point gap spec? If so what spec do I use direct indirect? I am suspecting the condensors right now since one was damaged when it was put in. But i just need to grab flywheel puller to check em. We have determined its prolly not the stator coil because there is only one for the both coils. thanks for all the help.
 

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had a few old everests 340 440..? 500..?
Your staor coils are more than likly fine. I usually don;t know the resistance, but having some it better then open.
The coils are usually a high,speed and alow speed coil, and somthing for lights.
For the tim and money, I'd swap both condensor's and a points if they look ratty.
it does'nt sound like your coils either. Again I usually look for open circuits instead of ressitance, but al least compare it to the other workign one.
Don;t run too much advance on these, you'll end up with a holes in the pto side piston., I also use the change the fan belt evey other year.

When in Doubt, gas it
 
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