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Vipers have been having a problem with fuel pump freeze up. My dad's has done it twice so far. After the first time he dumped in a bit too much dry gas and one cylinder went pop. The service tech told us about this modification to fix the problem of the fuel pump freeze up. He performed the mod but did not do it very well. The pump still froze up. After the second time we decided to redo the modification. The following is a process for doing the mod. Sorry for the length of this but it is all neccesary.

First thing I will list tools require for this job:
-Phillips head screwdriver(preferably magnetic)
-flathead(not required but may help)
-10mm wrench
-10mm socket(deep dish, not required but highly recommended)
-silicon sealant
-rubber piece(we used old radiator hose)
-magnet(not required but recommended)
-a drill bit and drill(sorry i forget the size used)

Ok now after gathering what you need use the phillips head screw driver to start taking apart the airbox. There are 4 seperate parts to the airbox not including the air filter. The top of the airbox has 4 holes in the seal around it. Use the phillips head driver to remove these 4 screws.

Be very careful not to drop any of these. Believe me it is not fun trying to get them out of the belly pan. This is where a magnetic screwdriver or magnet can come in handy to prevent them from falling into the belly. Simply remove this top part. Set aside and then remove the 6 screws in the next part. They are all around the air box and make sure you get them all.

A magnet comes in real handy in case you almost drop one. Now don't attempt to remove the airbox yet there is 1 10mm bolt holding this airbox part on yet. The bolt is on the left side of the steering column if you look at the above picture it is right below the red thumb and hand warmer wire. Remove it and set aside. Now slide this stage of the airbox off. Be carful because on the right side(looking from seating position) cables run over the airbox and are held in place by a plastic clip. Simply lift the opposite end of the airbox and this will not be a problem. Now pull the cones out of the airbox.

These will easily be removed with no tools. Now look into the airbox. You will see 3 rubber boots from the carbs to the airbox.

Simply push these out of the box and pull the airbox out gently. Now you should be able to see the fuel pump next to the secondary clutch.(as shown in this picture)

You don't need to disconnect any of the hoses on it for this mod. Simply use the 10mm deep dish socket or wrench of pull the 2 black nuts on the golden bolts off. Lift the pump and flip it over. This should be easily done without disconnecting hoses. Note there is a hole in the center of the fuel pump where a stud on the bulkhead fits in. Take a piece of paper and place it on the bottom of the fuel pump to make a template. There should probably be grease or something else on the bottom to help transfer the image. This does not have to be exact in fact a little extra around the edges is probably a good idea. Now cut a section of hose or rubber off to the size needed. In the case of the hose slit the hose and lay it flat. Then place the template on this and trace. Cut the rubber to shape then drill holes in the rubber with your drill bit. You can determine the size bit needed by simply placing the bit inside the hold on the pump till you find the right size. Drill 3 holes, 2 for the golden bolts, and 1 for the center stud that is suppossed to plug the hole. Now that this is made up place it over the golden bolts and stud and make sure it all sits there.

Place the pump back down and make sure your material is not too thick as to prevent the nuts from threading back on. Now take your silicon sealant and start to plug the hole on the bottom of the pump. Keep spreading it in there multiple times to get a good amount in there to seal it up.

Then spread a bit more around the outside of this same hole and place the pump back on the rubber and bolts while still wet. Simply bolt the fuel pump back into place. In our case you could see a bit of silicon coming out the sides when I really tightened it down. That is it for the pump. Now I would recommend you clean the inside of your airbox out with carb cleaner. There is no need if yours are not dirty. Our Viper was grass dragged numerous times so it got a bit dirty. Now simply put the airbox on in the reverse order you took it off. The flat head can come in handy to help put the rubber carb boots back on the air box. This is a very important part and should not be neglected. The boots have 3 rings 1 tall on the outside 1 short int he middle and 1 tall on the inside of the box. Make sure your box is set in the middle smaller groove so the bigger ones seal the box. This may take a bit of work but is easily do able. We had 2 ppl doing it and I feel it was easier that way so that may be recommended as well. The picture above shows the proper mounting of those rubber carb boots on the bottom air box stage. Now just put the rest of the airbox back on and you are set. You should probably let the silicon set for a bit before using the sled. This is not a garaunteed fix but has been recommened by many ppl including Yamaha Technicians. The entire part of the rubber between the pump and bulkhead is our own addition and I recommend it since the metal the pump is mounted to is Very cold and not heated at all.
I should mention one or two things. One we went back and added a second layer of rubber. My dad wanted to lean towards the safe side so he decided to add more. Personally I think 1 layer should do fine but 2 layers is probably better. Or in some cases just a thicker amount of rubber. Also in some of the pictures the secondary clutch is removed. This is not at all necessary for the modification, we were doing some clutch work and just happened to have it off as well. I would like to state that I am dissatisfied with the fact that this is required to make the sled perfectly. Yamaha should have tested maybe another season or a little more. That probably means my dad would have gotten an XC 700 but that is a good sled too so we would have lived.

Edited by - Sled_Dog on February 04 2002 5:49:15 PM
 

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Well done SD. XLNT post. More pics would be coll too.

Thanks,

DNO.
 

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Great post sled dog.... Erick or P-Man, does this forum have the ability to create stickey's? If so we should keep this one at the top for viper owners!

2002 Arctic Cat ZR 800 EFI

founding member of the Arctic Cat Mind Control Team......you will believe!!​
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have about 5 or 6 more pictures to add. My dad and I pulled the airbox back off and made sure everything was still good. I will post them and edit the post soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am working on a second mod for the Viper as we speak. Owners may notice their recoil starters rope wears an excessive amount. We are attempting to remedy this as I speak. Also we will be installing a rear heat exchanger sometime in the near future. I will do a quick write up on each of those items.
 

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That was very well done SD. You explained it so well that I would feel comfortable doing this job and I don't even have a Yami. Nice work!!!

Spaceman
Mean Green Racing
Elyria, Ohio
 

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Discussion Starter #8
UPDATE: if the Yammi ppl here don't know of it they should check out www.totallyamaha.com has lots of great stuff all yamaha. I submitted this little article to them for their technical section and they are going to post it! :)
 

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S.D. If you keep this up you'll have to change your handle to Mr. Chilton!!!

Spaceman
Mean Green Racing
Elyria, Ohio
 

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Or how about Viper God?

2002 Arctic Cat ZR 800 EFI

founding member of the Arctic Cat Mind Control Team......you will believe!!​
 

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Discussion Starter #11
didn't understand the Mr.Chilton one. I plan to keep it up a little bit not sure what else we are going to do to the sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This was posted on TotallYamaha today.

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/Viper%20Fuel%20Pump/Viper%20Fuel%20Pump%20Fix.htm
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by Sled_Dog:

didn't understand the Mr.Chilton one. I plan to keep it up a little bit not sure what else we are going to do to the sled.

[/quote]

Chilton's Repair Manual
 

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EXCELLENT JOB SLED_DOG!!! i can see that your on your way to working with the boys of snowcross someday-as their head wrencher, seriously though- very informative- i say we all give him a round of applause.....it is very much desrved!
 

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I never replied to this, but I should have, This is what we like to see here, Excellent info, very nicely done.

Very good work sled dog



http://www.bolliger-mabillard.com

I Love B&M Coasters.
 

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Excellent job SD! My brother owns a Viper, and I'll be sure to print a copy of this mod and pass it on to him.



1997 XLT SP 600
 

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Hey sled dog, if I decide to go pro with the snow cross thing, you want to be my wrench-head?


2002 Arctic Cat ZR 800 EFI

founding member of the Arctic Cat Mind Control Team......you will believe!!​
 

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i dont know intended, he may want to work on yamaha- just by the way he documented in his post, id say he knows his stuff (wanted to swear but didnt),,,,,REALLY, NO REALLY NICE JOB!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks a lot everyone and no actually I am pretty pissed at Yammi. I would certainly wrench for ya Intended. I see going to school for Yamaha just as a good step to show I have some form of education. I mean there isn't an Arctic Cat program or else I would take that. My dream would be to own a dealership. Got to have goals, I often have many :)



Edited by - Sled_Dog on February 12 2002 6:28:51 PM
 
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