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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, well next weekend, me and a cousin are going to be running our sleds down the bay (yes, were setting our sleds up right, are covering all neccasary safety procautions and filming it lol). My questions are of the following, I outlined what i am planning so far, please comment and suggest other stuff i should do/dont do... I've never gone more than 1500 feet on water, and the stretch were doing is going to be about 3 miles.......(down the bay to the beach, then back....)

First off, I am 210 pounds, so the set-up has to reflect that(if it matters? I'm not sure..)

Q#1: Most important question! Can my sled (2001 xcsp 500v.e.s) with proper clutching/jetting/gearing make the 3 mile (approx.) stretch?

Q#2: Set-up:

-Gearing: ? i have no clue, my first thought was 440 Pro-X Snowcross gear ratio... Would that do the trick? isnt it like 19/41 or something?

-Clutching: Sled currently has rebuild primary & secondary(so everything is working/shifting out properly, stock helix(R8 i think) in the 2nd hole, 10-56 weights, new rollers and pucks, stock springs, almost new Ultimax 3 belt, top rpm is 8100.

-Safety/watercross procautions: Seat is off, windshield is off, snowflap is already really short, shock towers and hood vents on clutch side are duct taped closed, siliconed the seam of the belly pan and bulkhead under clutches, 100 foot rope is tied to the rear bumper, and wraveled up on the tunnel and the javex jug i'm using to foat the rope is held down with a littlew duct tape to the tunnel. We are being followed by boats.

-Track/suspention: the current track is a 0.91" Polaris/Camoplast stock track, but half the lugs are gone........ I can put a 121" x 1.25" ripsaw on it i have though? Should i put the rear suspention in the tunnel or on the drop brackets? Should i tighten anything?

Jetting: What should i set my jets for? I will be running about 3/4-WOT the whole time, and it should be about +18*C.

I have a pack or bearings (jackshaft, chaincase, & all idler wheels) that are going to be going into sled, as i was already planning on doing so. Also i am going to be greasing it all, and a little pressure washing.....

How do i unlpug my headlights so they dont blow if the sled goes under?


Please no bashing that this is a dumb idea or whatever, I am looking for some helpful suggestions on my set-up, etc.......

Attached thumbnail(s) 2010516192250872_23162.jpg
 

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i wouldnt gear down too much maaaaybe 2 teeth. you are goona need a lot of track speed for 3 miles. put the ripsaw on, ive heard that a ripsaw on backwards is the best water x set-up. look in my old topic "starting water x" or something like that. lotta good stuff in there.
 

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Definately put that ripsaw on, not a chance in hell I'd run a stock track for that.
 

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For that kind of distance, the bigger the track the better if you don't plan on turning all over the place. Don't want to gear to low, then all your going to do is tach out with real track speed.

Gearing should be something like 21/44 ( or something similar ). Clutch engagement above 4500rpms. Tape everything off. You also have to worry about your belt heating up and blowing off. What about a fouled plug?

I'm all for water skipping good distances, maybe up to a mile. But after that ( and even during ), it's extremely sketchy. Sure you can do it, but are you sure your sled can?

How deep is this bay? I'm assuming it's really deep if its 3 miles across. Just remember, your sled most likely won't be coming back if it goes under.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
where were skipping is like 25 feet deep. Exept in the one place (narrows). And stock, my sled wouldnt do 3 miles, it would start bogging after 1000 feet.....

I am not doing it on this sled anymore though. the sleds pending sold. I am going to skip the 2003 Pro-XR 600 136"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
:) somethings getting skipped, idk what sled yet.
 

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If your using the 600 Xr you shouldn't have to gear it down much at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It has stock 440 gearing, and clutching for the 600(for bottom end/quick backshift). and the unstudded 136" x 1.25" should push it well.......

seat, windshield, bar cover, and snowflap would be coming off, good belt, and silicone and duct tape :)
 
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