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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im gonna start with 1000 grit then finish with 2000. im gonna polish with magic blue. Im gonna be doing it all by hand -- using horizontal strokes and also a spray bottle with a car wash mix in it for extra lubrication. anything else i should know?
 

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i wouldnt be afiad to use a sander! just use light pressure, and keep moving! if your gunna do it by hand i'd use some sort of sanding block! i'd say your grit choice should be ok. i just did a belt guard that i made and wet sanded it, then cut with red bar polish then buffed it with white jewelers rouge!
 

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2500 grit makes the polishing way easier. Bush aluminum polish is like no other, easy and fast plus great results. Rub on by hand and wipes off easy.

 

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holy cow!!^
 

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thinksno...what process did you use? i wetsand with paint thinner with 1000, 1500, 2000, than 2500. than hand polish with mothers aluminum and that go over again with mothers billet...i loved how it looked but its not as brilliant as yours.
 

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polaris650freak said:
thinksno...what process did you use? i wetsand with paint thinner with 1000, 1500, 2000, than 2500. than hand polish with mothers aluminum and that go over again with mothers billet...i loved how it looked but its not as brilliant as yours.
Mothers is tough polish to use as are other paste types, IMO. I have used liquid polishers like alu-buff which works great but Busch which seems the best and easiest/ quickest to use. To make it last for several seasons it's best to get a quality clear sealer like Zoop Seal, or Zaino Clear Seal. Busch makes a sealer but have never tried it.

http://www.buschshineproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3

http://www.1010tires.com/accessories.asp?pid=B44008

http://www.flynndist.com/index.php?action=show_detail&crn=206&rn=526
 

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thinksno...thanks for the links i am going to have to order me a bottle and get the sled home and try it. with the mothers it looks great and like you said is a pain in the butt and after one ride it looks like it did when i started...is the sealer going to dull it at all?
 

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Sealer is transparent. I know others that tried auto wax and sealers that did take the the shine down. Remember to shine like chrome the light has to reflect in one direction and scratches diffuse the light, the Busch liquid polish just makes the hard part easy.

Here's a buddies used Nytro he picked up, before and after using Busch.

2010101174449843_9003.jpg

2010101174520500_9003.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thinksno said:
Sealer is transparent. I know others that tried auto wax and sealers that did take the the shine down. Remember to shine like chrome the light has to reflect in one direction and scratches diffuse the light, the Busch liquid polish just makes the hard part easy.

Here's a buddies used Nytro he picked up, before and after using Busch.

2010101174449843_9003.jpg

2010101174520500_9003.jpg
is that with wet sanding or just using the polish?
 

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His tunnel was pretty scratched so he 1000-1500-2000 grit wet sand prepped. I get the 2500 grit from my auto body supplier and feel it makes polishing easier. Also it's much easier on a new sled.
 

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bush is what we use when im get my xc back im going to strip it down and do the tunnel but its painted black what the stuff in a can you can spray and wip the pait off

2009421181946906_26572.jpg
 

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wakeboarderboy said:
If you're going to use a sander which should you use? (for example I have a random orbital sander, belt sander or palm sander?)
Random orbital would probably be best if you can fit it into the spots you want. Don't use a belt sander on anything you only want to take a little material off of. They tend to leave longer scratches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
picman said:
wakeboarderboy said:
If you're going to use a sander which should you use? (for example I have a random orbital sander, belt sander or palm sander?)
Random orbital would probably be best if you can fit it into the spots you want. Don't use a belt sander on anything you only want to take a little material off of. They tend to leave longer scratches.

i read that you shouldnt use thaT -- because the scratches should be in one direction. i could be wrong
 

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Hell, I could be wrong. I am used to working with materials-mainly wood-that have a cover coating. Not metal
 

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Does wet sanding take out all the corrosion and such. Also what do you do about the vin sticker. Peel it or be careful and go around it.
 

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here is my before and after, nothing too fancy just little mothers billet polish and a powerball.. not to mention a few wiggly pops. but i figure it's all i need as most of the time it's covered in snow

20101011221037387_33415.jpg

201010112212927_33415.jpg

20101011221325793_33415.jpg

20101011221446934_33415.jpg
 
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